Question about Whirlpool 24 in. GU980SCG Built-in Dishwasher
This are the possibilities for the leak :-----
Door gasket loose/torn
Corner gaskets or door baffle/vent gasket
Door lock/latch loose/broken
Split spray arm
Over filling with water...usually the level is just under the heating element is normal
Something leaking through the door...like the soap or rinse agent dispenser gasket, silverware basket button.
Door hinge(s) bent
Wrong soap was used...dish sink soap instead of dishwasher soap
Rinse aid being used with mechanically softened water ( makes foam or suds inside the dishwasher )
Leaks from under the unit:
Look for whiting or calcium stain on the motor and pump assembly = motor and pump assembly seal leak...access panel removal help
Hose for upper spray arm split
Fill hose split or fill hose spout air inlet is calcium covered
Drain hose is split
Rusted liner...metal liners only
Fill valve leaking or allowing water to fill all the time
Heating element ends....where they come out through the dishwasher liner
Float or float gasket.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: water leaking onto the floor
1. If the water is going onto the floor during the drain cycle there is either a hole in the hose or it is completely loose from the DW or a hole in the drain assembly under the sink but if that were the case you would have water under the sink also.
2. If it during the wash or rinse cycle then the seals are not sealing (door is not closed all the way or seals are bad) or the float at the right front of the DW is stuck allowing the DW to overfill with water.(you need to open the door and pull the float up and out as you do so push it up and down and listen for a clicking sound.(which indicates it is making contact with the fill solenoid)..if you here the clicking and the float is full of gunk (old soap and such) clean it out and replace it and run it through a cycle and monitor the DW to see if the fill cycle shuts off before the water reaches the overflow point.
3. the only other option is a possible rust through on the DW and or the drain and motor mount in the center of the DW where the food particles and water are drained...is loose and leaking or rusted through...(how old is the DW).
4. Also check to see there are no large particles around the door seal to prevent complete closure and sealing of the door seal. As well as the door latching properly (when closed can the door be moved or pulled open)?
I hope this helps and let me know if not Please relay model number, age and other specifics you feel are pertinent...thank you and please rate me if this helped...thanks again ...the Fang
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
I ordered a new hose and the problem is fixed! I probably could have just simply taken the old hose off and flushed it out; but the powdered solution, that is supposed to dissolve, had solidified and clogged the hose in several places. Strangely, it had also made like a filmy flap at both openings. Gross!
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
There are two possibilities here. First of all make sure the latch is adjusted to close the door tight. IF not, you can adjust it using a screw driver. next, you may have to replace the gasket as these do wear out.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
ok , F1 means your flood switch has activated, which is underneath the drawer. now they show the F1 fault because of 2 reasons.1st there is still water underneath drawer causing switch to activate. 2nd your activator board which has the flood switch attached is faulty reading your posting it has been about 15 days since the fault happened. the water should have dryed around switch by now. if there is power to the unit and it is still coming up with F1 fault then possibly you have damaged the activator board. please reply and tell me if you have power on or off at the present time. to fix the problem it is alittle bit involved but i can guide you thru it when you reply .good luck
Posted on May 07, 2010
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