Question about GE Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Jake, the green wire is the ground, just attach it to one of the screws the secure the cover plate. As far as you ordering both the heater and the board, you have it covered. Catriver.
Posted on May 30, 2008
I asked that because in most cases, when it is a problem in a motherboard, it is likely a power surge or lightening. I can also tell you that when it comes to mother boards and component level, likelihood, it isn't transistors or anything unless it smells or looks burned. Most shops would just replace the motherboard and ship it as repaired becaue the cost of the IC isn't worth the possibility of something in another IC on the same board knocking iit out again. Short of plug and play, you have no real way of proving this board good/bad. You might try EBAY with your model number to see if you get lucky. I just got rid of an electronic stove because the control board went bad. New board was $150 with a possibility of it going out in 6 months. As I am not made of money, I now have a gas stove. I you could, please rate this as a fixya as I am just being honest and saving you time and aggrivation. Good luck
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
Your machine should have a limit thermostat as well as the thermister. It may payto change it first before the motherboard.
It looks like this, mounted on the top of the coil.
If that fails, and the machine goes back to normal cooling until the next defrost cycle, I can think of nothing but the motherboard as the culprit.
Posted on May 29, 2010
The drive output - solid state relay maybe a thyristor - is short and is continuously heating the element thus burning it off.
The element is supposed to heat only for a specific period of time. The motherboarrd must be taken out to confirm the shorting of the thyristor/SCR.
replace with the same type and it will only swittch on when the microprocessor timer signals a bias to turn it on.
Posted on Aug 30, 2010
This is how the defrost works . I have NEVER found a defrost problem associated with a bad main control board since these computerized GE's came out in 2000 . Lots of thermistor problems , lying to the board , causing different problems .
Your GSS model refrig does not have a defrost timer . It works off of the main control board . Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
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