Question about Jl Audio 12W3 Car Subwoofer

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Car Sub JL 12w3 low sound

I am running an older JL Audio 12w3v2-D4 off of a Blaupunkt THA1350 Amp. The sub is wired in parallel to run on 2 ohms. I know that the amp should have no issues running this sub but the only noise I am getting from the sub is very very soft. I don't believe the sub is blown since I have never smelled that distinct blown sub scent. Any ideas what is wrong?

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  • KrazyJ Dec 28, 2007

    I solved this on my own but i thank you for the help. Seems kinda odd that you would look up the amp specs but not the speaker specs to find out that 300 watts is the rms for the speaker.

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So I am assuming that you have just setup/wired this up recently? Have you had this working before?
You can have a look at the gain control on the amp & see if this have been set really low. This will help if the signal coming from your stereo is weak. The other thing I would suggest is to make sure that the amp can actually push this sub. I know what the specs say:

  • 1 channel audio amplifier
  • 1 x 350W RMS @ 1.0% THD
  • ThermalThrote full-on power assurance
  • 2 ohms stable (non-bridged mode only)
  • RCA type inputs
  • 0.3-6.0 VRMS input capability
  • Continuously variable High-Pass & Low Pass 50-250 Hz
  • Continuously variable Bass Boost settings (0 tp +12dB)
  • Frequency responce: 10-30,000 Hz
  • S/N >104 dBA at full power @ 0.1% THD
  • >80 dBA at 1W/1M
  • Remote gain control, mounting hardware & screws included
but I don't believe most of these. Many manufacturers embellish what their products can actually do! With the bigger more established brands such as JL Audio you will have no problems, their products have been tried & tested so much on the competition circuit.

Posted on Dec 28, 2007

  • Travis Sumner Dec 17, 2013

    Im having the same "low noise" problem. How did you fix it. My subs were running perfectly a few days ago

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The JL Audio 12w6 v2-D4 has dual 4 ohm voice coils that can be wired for either a final load to the amp of 2 ohms (parallel) or 8 ohms (series).

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Unless your amp is stable below 1 ohm, there's really only one wiring solution. And that is to series the voice coils making each sub 8 ohms, then parallel all 3 subs to the amp for a 2.67 ohm load. If you parallel the voice coils and then parallel the subs, the impedance will be 0.67 ohms, much too low for most amps.

You could parallel the voice coils and then series the subs for a 6 ohm load, but the amp won't put as many watts into a 6 ohm load. Most are optimized for 4 ohms or 2 ohms. And it's not good to run subs in series anyway.

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are you factoring the ohm rating from running them parallel?

2 x 2o subs parallel = 0.5 ohm (lowers ohm's)

2x 2oh subs series = 4 ohm

IT is posable that you are calculating the ohm rating fine, BUT some SUBS can reach lower ohm rating while hitting bass- i didnt know this till i had a rather insane sub that would dip to 1ohm while hitting hard bass causing my amp to go into protect mode.


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Generally, you want to have the load on your amp to have the lowest possible impedance consistent with the amps capability to operate properly with that load. It's normally referred to as "impedance matching". Greater power (watts) is produced, and louder sound, when the amp can deliver power at a lower impedance.

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12W3v2-D4 sealed or ported enclosure use.
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Ported 1.75 ft3 29" x 14" x 12.25" - Slot port size 1.375" x 12.5" x 23.75"
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Fc: 47.4 Hz F3: 41.3 Hz Qtc: 0.83 Recommended Port Tuning: 30.3 Hz

Maximum wattage: 600 watts per driver.

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