Question about Jl Audio 12W3 Car Subwoofer

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Car Sub JL 12w3 low sound

I am running an older JL Audio 12w3v2-D4 off of a Blaupunkt THA1350 Amp. The sub is wired in parallel to run on 2 ohms. I know that the amp should have no issues running this sub but the only noise I am getting from the sub is very very soft. I don't believe the sub is blown since I have never smelled that distinct blown sub scent. Any ideas what is wrong?

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Re: Car Sub JL 12w3 low sound

So I am assuming that you have just setup/wired this up recently? Have you had this working before?
You can have a look at the gain control on the amp & see if this have been set really low. This will help if the signal coming from your stereo is weak. The other thing I would suggest is to make sure that the amp can actually push this sub. I know what the specs say:

  • 1 channel audio amplifier
  • 1 x 350W RMS @ 1.0% THD
  • ThermalThrote full-on power assurance
  • 2 ohms stable (non-bridged mode only)
  • RCA type inputs
  • 0.3-6.0 VRMS input capability
  • Continuously variable High-Pass & Low Pass 50-250 Hz
  • Continuously variable Bass Boost settings (0 tp +12dB)
  • Frequency responce: 10-30,000 Hz
  • S/N >104 dBA at full power @ 0.1% THD
  • >80 dBA at 1W/1M
  • Remote gain control, mounting hardware & screws included
but I don't believe most of these. Many manufacturers embellish what their products can actually do! With the bigger more established brands such as JL Audio you will have no problems, their products have been tried & tested so much on the competition circuit.

Posted on Dec 28, 2007

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What way should I hook 2 12" jl audio to a jl audio 1000/1

Is this sub an svc or a dvc? From what I looked up they are svc, so each sub's voicecoil is 3 OHMS, connecting them in parallel would lower them to 1.5, and your amp is capable of going down to 1.5 ohms. So I would suggest running them in parallel.

Speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono 2_4ohm_svc_2ohm.gif
(Although from the information I gathered these subs have 3 OHM voicecoils, so in the diagram where is says 4 OHM it should say 3 OHM, and the 2 OHM should say 1.5 OHMS.

This is a good site to help calculate OHMS:

Hope this helps.

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Try to install 3 12w3d6 subwoofers connecting 3 sub together to put them in box

You need to wire them according to the limitations of your amp you can pull a 1 ohm overall load just by connecting all of your coils in parallel- or you can get an overall load of 4 ohms by wiring each sub individually in a series configuration which will yield a 12 ohm load per sub -and then wire the 3 sets in parallel which will bring your ohms back down to 4. You can do a lot with that many coils it depends on your amp really-ideally a 1 ohm stable class d mono amp that is 1000-1500 watts rms would knock the **** outta those things JL is the good stuff.

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Hello shermalestuc,

The JL Audio 12w6 v2-D4 has dual 4 ohm voice coils that can be wired for either a final load to the amp of 2 ohms (parallel) or 8 ohms (series).

If your amp is 2 ohm stable, the best power solution for a single sub is to use the parallel configuration, both positives and both negatives together and then to the amp.

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How 2 wire 3 jl audio w6 v2

Hello mikey4569mky,

Unless your amp is stable below 1 ohm, there's really only one wiring solution. And that is to series the voice coils making each sub 8 ohms, then parallel all 3 subs to the amp for a 2.67 ohm load. If you parallel the voice coils and then parallel the subs, the impedance will be 0.67 ohms, much too low for most amps.

You could parallel the voice coils and then series the subs for a 6 ohm load, but the amp won't put as many watts into a 6 ohm load. Most are optimized for 4 ohms or 2 ohms. And it's not good to run subs in series anyway.

Here's the wiring diagram.

Hope this helps.

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Is a 15 w3 d-4 better then a jl audio w3-d2


All of the JL W3 subwoofers are essentially the same. The "d2" and "d4" suffix refers to the voice coil configuration. "d2" = dual two ohm coils, "d4" = dual four ohm coils. Depending on the number of subwoofers in your system and the amplifier(s) you are using to power them, one or the other of the configurations may be "better".

Generally, you want to have the load on your amp to have the lowest possible impedance consistent with the amps capability to operate properly with that load. It's normally referred to as "impedance matching". Greater power (watts) is produced, and louder sound, when the amp can deliver power at a lower impedance.

If your amp is only capable of supplying power at 4 ohms, you want to make sure that the configuration of your sub(s) represents a 4-ohm load. If the load is higher, say 8 ohms, then your amp can only deliver about half the power of which it is capable. It would be OK to run them a 8 ohms, but they would not be as loud. On the other hand, if the load was lower, say 2 ohms, your amplifier would soon overheat and go into protect mode.

So the trick is to first decide on how many subs you want. Then choose an amp/sub combination that "matches".

The DVC or dual voice coils just gives you more options in selecting and configuring. Say you want 2 subs and you are going with the 15w3 d-2. Your amp is the JL Audio G-MAX monoblock. The amp puts out 1200Wx1 Chan. at 2 ohms or 600Wx1 Chan. at 4 ohms. You would wire both of your subs voice coils in series making each sub 4 ohms, then wire the 2 subs in parallel to your amp making the final load 2 ohms, the best "match" for your amp.

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These subwoofers are dual 4 ohm voicecoils.

Parallel wiring the 2 voicecoils would net a 2 ohm mono load.

Connect both + on the sub to the + on the amp.
Connect both - on the sub to the - on the amp.

Many professionals simply jumper the 2 + and 2- on the sub.... then run 1 set of wires from one of the terminals to the amplifier.

Thank you for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated!!

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1 Answer


12W3v2-D4 sealed or ported enclosure use.
Sealed 1.25 ft3 23" x 14" x 10"
Ported 1.75 ft3 29" x 14" x 12.25" - Slot port size 1.375" x 12.5" x 23.75"
Fc: 47.4 Hz F3: 41.3 Hz Qtc: 0.83 Recommended Port Tuning: 30.3 Hz

Maximum wattage: 600 watts per driver.

I hope this helps you, more info can be found at:

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They need 1.4-1.7 cubic ft per sub(ported box) less if it is sealed but I wouldn't recommend that, it sounds like ****. Google "Re audio box calculator" and use it to adjust your dementions to your application

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Connect each speaker coil one at a time to a square 9 volt battery and watch for the cone to move.

Also try hooking another speaker to your amp just to make sure the noise isn't in the amp.

You can use a 9 volt battery to test wire polarity also. Hook up the + wire of the speaker to the + terminal of the battery and the - speaker to the - battery terminal. If the speaker moved UP or OUT then the wiring is correct. If it moved IN or DOWN then the + and - wires are backwards on the speaker.

Also if you have two or more speakers hooked together test all the same way while they are hooked to each other. ALL of the speakers need to move in the same direction at the same time.

Clipping causes more speaker damage than anything. "Dirty Power" can happen in good quality amps too. The gain control is to match the voltage between the headunit and the amp. It is NOT a volume or boost knob. If you overdrive the first stage of the amp and then clip it damage will occur to the amp and speakers at some point.

Hope this helps.

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500watts sounds about right to me,i wouldnt go any higher as you risk popping the sub and haveing a melt down in the coil section of the subwoofer.

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