If I pull a red lead off of the low temp sensor (L120? it has two small red leads), I can get the dryer to start fine, but the igniter/gas won't do its thing. If I reconnect it when running (or short across the sensor by directly connecting the two leads), the dryer stops after about two seconds, probably via safety switch. However, if I repeatedly tap the lead against the prong where it normally connects (1-2 times a second), the igniter will glow, the gas will ignite and the dryer will run properly. This perpetuates until the L160 kicks in with the door is on, or the high-temp safety kicks in with the door off. Or until I get tired of testing it.
It's difficult to say if there is a problem with the low temp sensor since I can get the dryer to work by including it in the circuit via the tapping method. The dryer is always tested cold (55F in the basement). Any ideas before I go on a part chase?
Do you have a ohm meter ? if so you can check the low temp sensor for a open should also check the hi temp sensor they are both required in the circuit for the dryer to work properly they should both read as closed circuits what you are doing with the tapping is reseting the fault timer in the control that is why you can get it to run like that
The gas valve and ignitor will not work if one of the sensors is bad there is also a flame sensor if it is bad it will not let the dryer run look at the wiring diagram on the back panel these are the things I would check first
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Hi. Open up the back of the dryer after unplugging it. Take a deep
breath. This is not that hard. A dryer is a very simple thing but you
need to relax and figure out what the parts are. A dryer has a very
basic parts list. The obvious I will not go into with but here goes with
the electrical in the guts of the machine. A motor to turn the drum. A
heating element. A sensor to sense high temps for safety shutoff of the
element. A blower for air. Keep in mind as you look at this that usually
power wires are black or red. You will see some wires that are attached
to a sensor and then on to the heating elements. Take a test light or
volt ohm meter and see if the high temp limit sensor is bad. This can be
a simple ten dollar one from Radio Shack. That is, it will it get
continuity through it. You may have to detach the wires on this sensor
to do this test. The sensor is usually a flattened round disc with two
leads coming out of it. Test the element same as the sensor. Take the
part where there is no continuity through them to the appliance parts
store with the model and serial number of the dryer for appropriate
parts. Maybe ten bucks. I know it sounds scary but you may learn
something and if all else fails just pickup the phone and call the
repairman. Hope this helps. good luck please rate thes
have you got the timing set correct ,and did you fit the timing belt with all the timing marks lined up ,etc , if there correct ,check for spark ,by pulling off a spark plug lead and fitting an old plug into the lead ,then crank the motor ,dont hold the plug with your hand ,use insulted pliers ,if you have spark, ,if no spark check coil wiring ,coil, crank angle sensor,
One of two things is wrong. Either the start switch has gone bad or the start winding in the motor is failing to switch over to the run winding. You'll need to get a multimeter and before starting unplug the dryer. Once thats done, get behind it, remove the back cover to the control panal and disconnect the two wires that are connected to the start button. With your meter set for checking continuity, place a meter lead on start button pins where the wires were connected, one lead on each side.With leads in place have someone press the start button, if continuity shows when pressed and stops when its not, the button is good and the motor is bad. Personally, I think the motor winding has burnt, and the motor should be replace, but I also think that the start button should be changed as well because its in direct series with the motor, and could have taken damage that may not show up until further down the road, plus its an inexpensive part.
Do you hear the motor? If you do, check the belt to see if it is broken. If you do not, it could be the door safety interlock switch. Remove the door switch and temporally tape one of the wires to the other, then press start. If it works, remove the shorted wire to stop the dryer and order a switch. If you have an Ohm Meter you can safely test the function of the switch without shorting it. The next item to check is the start button. You will need to lift the top of the dryer from the front and tilt it back to access the control panel. Unplug the dryer and use a test lead with an alligator clip to connect to one of the switch leads. Plug the unit in and carefully touch the other end of the test lead to the other end of the switch. Keep your hands and loose articles away from moving parts (the drum) and electrical items. If it works, order a start switch. The next item would be to check for voltage on the motor using a volt meter.
The LE error message means locked motor error and it is almost always accounted for an out-of-order Hall Effect Sensor. Other causes includes defective Main Board and broken wiring harness.
To check the Hall Effect Sensor:
Unplug the machine.
Remove the top plate assembly by unscrewing the two screws on the back of the top plate.
Look for the Main Board assembly on the rear left side of the machine.
Remove the power connector and sensor switch assembly.
Remove the Main Board assembly protection cover by releasing the latches along its sides.
Look for the 4-pin white connector with white, gray , red, and blue wires. It is the wiring harness going to the Hall Effect Sensor. Disconnect it from the board.
Using a multimeter, check the resistance between the white and blue wires and between the white and red wires. Resistance should read about 10k ohms.
If either resistance reads open, check for a broken wiring
harness and repair or replace as necessary. Otherwise, the Hall Effect
Sensor is defective and must be replaced.
If the tests above show that the Hall Effect Sensor seemed to be good, you have
to check if the Main Board delivers 10 to 15 Vdc supply to it.
Reconnect the machine to the power outlet.
Press POWER but DO NOT PRESS START.
Set the multimeter to DC volt and measure the voltage between white and gray wire terminals on the Main Board. Voltage should be 10 to 15 Vdc. Otherwise, the Main Board is defective and must be replaced.
Connect the red test lead to the red wire and the black test lead to the gray wire.
Turn the motor rotor slowly by hand.
You should measure a pulsating 10 Vdc if the Hall Effect Sensor is okay.
Repeat the step with the red test lead connected to the blue wire.
If you measure a 10 Vdc but not pulsating, the Hall Effect Sensor is defective and must be replaced.
Feel free to inform me if the Hall Effect Sensor or the Main Board needs to be replaced and if you want to replace it yourself.
Red wires are usually the in and out for the centrifugal switch. the black wire that goes to the panel inside the motor is likely the 120 connection, the panel is the start switch for the start winding of the motor. This black wire should be connected to the 120 (from inside oven) and one of the red wires (three wires together). The other black wire of the motor should be connected to nuetral (you will have to determine which of the wires you have left coming from the oven is nuetral) the other red wire should be connected to the wire that feeds back into the oven for gas valve/thermostat controls (you may be able to trace this wire by hand to see if it goes to thermostat and gas valves). Hope this helps.
check your power first breakers trurn them off then on check outlet for 220 then 110 at each side that would be meter leads two flat holes 220 then meter flat hole on one side red wire black lead to round hole should be 110 red lead other side flat hole black lead round hole should be 110 if thats good then pull terminal block cover off check cord for loose or burnt condition if its burnt dont freak just replace terminal block and cord they burn if they werent tight when installed now to get the top up get a putty knife face the drier and about 2 to 3 inches there are two spring clips push in with the putty knife while rasing the edge one at a time if its not the power look for the thermal limiter a small metel disc close to the heating element some are plastic if its open theres your promblem pull one wire off of it or youll get a flase reading through the timer