Hello - any help will be appreciated.
I'm a semi-professional -- one with a good eye but hardly any technical savy. All my images are out of focus. I try auto everything and manual focus. Doesn't matter what the conditions, I just can't get anything to focus. It's always so bad, I can't even get them to look good using Photoshop Elements. I've had several "smart" friends try to figure it out and no one can. they all say get rid of it and buy a "good" camera. I can't afford to replace this -- but am very frustrated.
I do remember my camera dropping once. Can't recall if that's when everything went out of focus though. Is this possibly something that can be fixed? and if so, where do I go? help
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Hello, clean the outside of the lens with a good optical cleaner. If you have,
then trying adjusting the focus for each eye. Try both ends of this binocular at
one eye at time; such as, left first, then the right eye until there are
focused. That is if you can focus the optical end and they leave you with the
eye lens for focus. Let me know how it works out. stewbsion
Hello - I never had Plastimo before but I have had a similar problem with double vision on a very similar looking pair of binoculars.
The eye piece movement just re-aligns eye focus differences , a double image usually means one of the lenses has moved inside the main tube. (usually from a knock/fall etc)
Can you rotate either one of the tubes ? On my pair I had to rotate anti-clockwide and found a prism inside that had slipped after a fall -
Close one eye and try to gauge which side is the best side -- Ray
It is common for binoculars to have one independently focusable eyepiece. If one eyepiece can be rotated, then that is the case.
If that is the case, focus through the one that DOES NOT rotate using the center control until you get a sharp image on that side. Then rotate the eyepiece on the blurry side until the blurry side is sharp. If you succeed at this, from henceforth the center control will focus both eyes adequately
Step 1. Adjust the eyepiece or both if both are adjustable back to zero. It should be printed on there. If it's not, then halfway. To find halfway turn them to one end, count the number of turns like 1 and a half turns for example, and then half that atnd turn it that ammount. You've now reset the binoculars to zero.
Step 2. Now to focus. Pick your target that you want to look at thoguh your binoculars. Look through the binoculars and close the eye with the adjustable eyepiece or your right eye if both are eadjustable and focus the image on the left eye with the central focus knob. Once you've got it focused close the left eye, open the right eye and if it's not in focus adjust the EYEPIECE focus, not the central one, until it's in focus. If you can't get it in focus because the eyepiece focus won't turn far enough in one direction, turn the OTHER eyepiece in the opposite direction at max, start the process again from step 2.
If it's all ok now you need to adjust the distance between the eyepieces. Open the binoculars as far as they go, look through the binoculars with both eyes on the target and move the binoculars inward slowly until you remove any black edges around the image, then move them very slowly inward until you see only one image.
Difficult to answer specifically without knowing the model. But binoculars are designed to view objects in the distance. They all have a limit as to how close they will focus based on the magnification and design. Objective lenses that are far apart such as on a porro prism binocular will not focus very close. The nature of the design of having the objectives further apart than the eyepieces doesn't allow it. When trying to focus too close the image will appear blurred and double. That is the nature of the design. 9 feet or 3 metres is considered quite close to focus a binocular and is usually for a model designed to do this such as a roof prism where the objective lens and the eye lenses are inline. A specialty binocular such as the Pentax Papilo will close focus to 50 centimeters. It has been designed so that the objective (large lenses) lenses converge.
Take into account when focusing that binoculars are also designed to compensate for differences in each eye. One of the eyepieces either right or left will adjust seperately. For binoculars with a center focus ring. First focus using the center ring with one eye covered. The eye that should be covered is the one that doesn't have the adjusting eyepiece. When the image is clear close the eye you have just used and leave the center focus alone. Focusing on the same spot look through the eyepiece that adjusts and turn the eyepiece ring until the image is clear. Now all you have to do is focus using the center ring only as the binoculars are adjusted for each eye.
Some binoculars do not have a center focus and each eye will adjust seperately.
Your binoculars are known as the Zeiss Classic or what was once known as the Dialyt. They focus differently from the usual binoculars like those mentioned. The rear wheel is to focus both binocular barrels while using them. The front focus wheel is adjust the right eyepiece to suit your right eye. Binocular manufacturers take into account each eye is slightly different. To focus the Dialyt...First close your right eye and turn the rear wheel until the image is sharp in the left barrel. Leave the focus wheel alone. Now close left eye and adjust the front wheel until the image is sharp for your right eye. The image should now be clear and in focus for both eyes. It should not be needed to use the front wheel from now on. The rear wheel is what you will use to change the focus from near to far objects.
first open and close the binoculars untill they fit you eye width,now adjust left eye with the flat section located on the center hinge,now turn right eyepiece till clear. note: once you have adjusted right eyepiece you only have to leave it in that position in order to focus from near and far.........good luck......email@example.com
The problem is you are way out of focus. Turn the focus knob alot, until the star image gets much much smaller. Keep going until it looks like a pin point or a star!. The spider vane and center black dot will disappear. This black dot is actually the secondary diagonal mirror reflection in the primary mirror. The peace signs are the secondary supports. Use the lowest power eye pieces. I would not use the Barlow lens that comes with this scope as it very poor quality. Also, using this high power with this small an aperature (tube diamter) & unstable mount will be very difficult indeed. Invest in some wide angle, long eye relief low power lens. Use these for a while before going to higher powers.
Your diopter may not be adjusted ( adjustment for sharpness of image in viewfinder on the side of the eye-piece ) so set that first and then try again. If this is correct then your camera is focusing accurately ( on the sensor ) but only the image in viewfinder looks unsharp.
IMHO ---- A lot depends on the lighting available for shot, outdoor and bright is best. Use AP setting (dial on top), Aperture Priority, and set desired F number (using thumb wheel, top right edge) as high an F as you dare, taking speed used into account, by watching it change in viewfinder (do not want a shaky slow speed!). The depth of field, hopefully with higher F, will be deep enough to catch back and front rows, in focus. A half press on shutter should trigger auto focus and give chance to preview in viewfinder. Good luck hope the weather behaves. Less light = less flexibility.....