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What happens in that 72 hours is the evaporator coil get's so much frost built up on it that the fan in the evap. freezer fan has no where to circulate the cold air (where the cold is produced). Basically you have a restriction between freez/fridg. sections you have defrost problem> It is one of three things d heater,d t stat, or your d timer.I need the model # to tell you what my sugestions would be and where to start.
well asuming you already thought to turn the thermostat down, i would check to see if you have a freon leak. with the fridge running, paint the coils with soapy water untill you see bubbles. mark that spot and dry off the area around it. generously apply electronics grade solder to the area where the leak is. (be sure you don't melt the copper and unplug the fridge first) then continue untill you have checked the entire length of coil. when all ieaks have been stoped recharge with recomended freon.
Make sure the the evaporator fan is running and circulation is getting to the fridge side. Remove anything that could be blocking the vent that brings in the air from the freezer to the fridge. Make sure that no frost is building up in the back of the freezer. If there is frost, then the timer can be going bad.
make sure your cond under ref is clean allso check your door gaskets if its getting moisture in it i have seen the damper stick from ice from door gasket and when your defrosting evap its clearing damper
Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.
1) Top freezer compartment is getting TOO cold. The ice gets so thick, it blocks the channels of cool air from the freezer down to the fridge compartment (hence fridge too warm)
SOLUTION: Turn fridge/freezer off to fully defrost, then turn back on.
NB: This might only be a temporary fix, and you will find in a few months time the same thing happens?
2) In my case, I required a replacement of the "controller" board which fixed the defrosting problem of my freezer compartment.
I faced the same problem for Kenmore elite Trio Model # 795.77543600 bottom freezer refrigerator. The issue as pointed out by Medeer on fixya.com, turned out to be the part called component assembly, part number 6615JB2005H. I got this replaced yesterday but for 4 hours I did not notice any cooling... so I thought it did not work.... but then in the morning I notice that the issue has been resolved, the refrigerator is cold and there is no eR dH error message. Thanks to all who shared on this site.