If anyhow the drain pump is blocked the spinning will be blocked. Check for a forrign object in the drain pump. If you can feel/hear it buzz (very quietly) while it should be pumping out it might be jammed up with something. That however is kind of rare with the angled tub the Neptune uses.
Are you sure the machine is actually not pumping out, or is it possible its just turning off in the rinses?
Reason I'm asking is the control will shut the machine down if its taking too long to fill up. Many times it will fill fine for the wash fill, but because the rinse takes twice the ammount of water it activates the system and shuts down while its half way filled. Look for a slow cold water fill for that problem.
Is the door locking in the spin? One very common problem on the older 3000 and 4000 series machines is the R11 resistor on the machine control board bruning out leaving the door lock inoperative. If the door won't lock, it won't spin. I do believe, however, the machine will still pump out. But many times what happens is the pump removes all the standing water, but without spinning everything in the tub stays soaked. The saturated clothing drains the water out and then leaves a few inches in the bottom of the tub.
If you have the newer style Neptune (with the control panel on the front of the machine) only the top paragraph applies.
Thank you Sir, Have a nice day.
SOURCE: will drain but wont spin
I just had exactly the same problem. It turns out that the washer thought it was "continuously out of balance" because the inertial unbalance switch was not working properly. The way I fixed it was:
1. I followed the instructions to disassemble the Neptune washer found here: http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm and then in the control panel on top I found actually a very useful document stored in the control panel itself. It is called "Schematic Mini-manual LED Washer" and it contains a set of schematics for the electrical system and an explanation on how to run various diagnostics on the washer. This was incredibly helpful.
2. I checked the diagnostic code using the following procedure:
a. Plug the washer in for power.
b. Put the washer into "Service Mode" by holding the "Delicates" and "Heavy soil" keys simultaneously for 3 or more seconds. My washer showed a "00" on the screen when it was in Service Mode.
c. Pushed "Presoak" to put it in diagnostic code mode.
d. Pushed the down arrow key to read out the last diagnostic code. In my case the most recent diagnostic code was a "05", which the mini-manual says means "Continuous unbalanced circuit". In fact the mini-manual also says to "Check for: Faulty unbalance switches, Loose wire connections, Bad control board".
e. To find out how many cycles ago this happened, you can push the "Cotton/sturdy" button and it will tell you how many cycles ago this happened. I can't remember the response of my washer, but it either showed a "00" or "01".
To double check the diagnostic code, I
a. Cleared the list of diagnostic codes by holding the "Heavy soil" and "Presoak" buttons for 3 seconds while in the "Diagnostic code" mode;
b. Put the washer door back on and screwed it in without putting the entire front back on the washer.
c. Pushed the "off" button or unplug the washer and plug it back in to get it out of "Service mode".
c. Ran just the spin cycle, where it counted down to 7 and then was perfectly silent and then displayed a "00" without really trying to spin.
Double checking the diagnostic code probably wasnt' really needed, but I thought I would try it just to make sure. I did receive the "05" diagnostic code again.
3. With the washer unplugged again, I did the following to check that the switches were the problem, I checked the resistance of the circuit that has the following three switches in it: the inertial unbalance switch, the low tub displacement switch, and the upper tub displacement switch. If the circuit has effectively "0" Ohms of resistance, the switches are good. If you effectively have "infinite" resistance, then one of the switches is bad.
The mini-manual shows you where the switches are physically on the washer. The easiest way to check this is to find a connector that connects the three switches to the control panel. I found this by lifting the top panel of the washer up all of the way so I could access the top of the washer's tub. Based on the schematic from the mini-manual, the in-line connector has four wires. One side you will find a red wire with the number "23" on it and an orange wire with the number "40" on it. The other half of the connector has two blue wires connected to it, one with the number "23" on it and one with the number "40" on it. In my washer, this connector was placed on top of the washer toward the back.
To test to see if one of the switches is not working:
a. Disconnect the inline connector described above.
b. Test the resistance between the two terminals on the side of the connector having the two blue wires. I found that when I did this I had infinite resistance, so want of the switches was stuck open, indicating the "unbalanced " condition.
To find which switch was at fault, I disconnected each switch from the circuit and tested each one individually. The one that was easiest to get to was the lower tub displacement switch, which is in the front on the bottom of the washer's tub. It worked fine (0 Ohms resistance normally and infinite resistance when you push the button). The next I tried was the inertial unbalance switch, which is placed on the top, right, front of the tub just underneath the block of concrete that is mounted on the tub. For convenience, I removed the concrete block so I could easily access and remove the switch.
This was the switch with the problem (it was effectively stuck open or infinite resistance). It seems to have some rod of metal in it that moves back and forth with the washers motion, so I just shook it vigorously and you could hear the rod of metal move back and forth. This seemed to free up the switch mechanism and the switch functioned again (showed "0" ohms when it was held in about the same position as it would be on the washer). I put the switch back in place and checked the connector with the blue wires leading to all three switches as before. This time I received effectively "0" Ohms, meaning that the problem was fixed.
4. At this point, I put everything back together again (concrete block, reconnected the in-line connector to the switches, and reversed the procedure found in http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm ).
Once everything was back together again, I tested just a "spin" cycle and everything worked. You could also test this before putting things back together (probably a good idea) by temporarily putting the door on properly and trying a "spin" cycle.
Another thing to note, you could actually check the diagnostic codes and run several of the tests without taking the entire washer apart. Basically, all you need to do is get the mini-manual out of the control panel (I there are 6 screws total I took off) and run the tests before opening the rest of the washer.
In the end, it might be good to clean or lubricate the inertial unbalance switch or replace it since it will probably stick again. Unfortunately, I am not sure how it is built, so I am not sure what the best way to clean or lubricate it is. Just shaking it for the moment did the trick.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: im having trouble with my
Please see the following Whirlpool / Maytag service manual for Neptune washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/dc59d905140253e18525729c005765f4/$FILE/Maytag_Neptune_Washer.pdf
On page 3-1 the manual explains that if the washer shuts off during the spin cycle, the problem points to a weak spring in the door lock mechanism.
"Shuts OFF In The Middle Of The Spin Cycle:
During the spin cycle, the machine control
monitors the door lock mechanism to ensure
the door is locked. This is done through the
door lock enable switch. During "lock mode,"
the shaft of the door lock mechanism is
pressed forward by the door lock wax motor,
and the shaft presses in the button of the door
lock enable switch. If the machine control
board sees the switch OPEN during the spin
cycle, the machine control board will automatically
shut the washer OFF. This is caused
by a weak spring in the door lock wax motor.
Replace the complete door lock mechanism.
SOURCE: maytag neptune mah5500bbw wont spin going through
My Maytag Neptune MAH5500B or MAH5500BWW wouldn't spin either. It would go all the way through the wash cycle, agitation and all, as mentioned before, the spin cycle would start at the 9 minute mark, and get down to the 7 minutes then drop directly to 0 with no spin at all.
After hours of investigation it turned out the balance load switch was corroded. This switch is accessible through the front panel of the washer. The door must be removed and the front panel comes off, this switch is directly under the wash drum where there is a little electrical plug and switch which rests on top of stabilizer styrofoam. The connection was being made but there was green corrosion, and evidently the switch box was corroded within. When bypassed, the washer spun perfectly.
Hope this helps someone else out there - I was horrified to think that this washer would end up more landfill as it wouldn't be worthwhile to pay hundreds for a new motor control board as had been suggested was the problem.
430 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×