I have a Kicker 04kx250.2 amp and pushed it ta limits......It burnd 2 IR.s been replaced but i saw a problem. after i fixed the IR.s the part i need is melted so i can not read the part number to order it. some one could help me so much if they have the same model and could tell me the number. look at the part marked with the pencile On the board the Q1 is the spot on the board.
I have one of these amps that died (aparently) has green led for power but no protection led and no red led on the top of the unit, put out a slight click at subs on occation. To answer the question..The numbers on the IC are UTC SBA1 and below that B649A C
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Re: Can i fix it ?
If no one else offers any suggestions, remove the transistor. Set your multimeter to ohms. If the solder pad for the left-most leg of the transistor goes to the B+ terminal of the amp (possibly via a low value resistor) and the center leg goes to pins 8, 11 and/or 12 of the tl494/tl594, the transistor is likely a 2sb631 or a 2sb649. The transistor is used to switch power to the tlx94.
If there were more than 2 of the IRFZ44 transistors (the ones most commonly used by kicker) in the supply, you need to change all of them. It's very rare that any survive. When one goes, they all go.
Did you check the audio transistors to see if any had failed?
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You need to swap your main battery for a high performance kinetic... and maybe even ad a small kinetic in the back as well (fused separately) and see how that works for you. Just one oversized kinetic battery replacing your stock battery may do that trick. Remember, its best to install two batteries of the same brand and size, its ok to use the same brand and two different sizes (a kinetic 2400 and a kinetic 600 for example, but with an isolator) but its easier and simpler to just put in a kinetic 1200 or something that will replace your stock power sucking ineffecient lead acid stuff.
How do you know its a output transistor?? You can open the amp and normlly the transistors are black with 3 legs and are normally bolted to the metal frame of the amp body as they get very hot and need to dissipate heat
It sounds like you have some broken solder connections on the power terminal. if you know how to solder and are good at taking things apart and putting them back together you can fix it pretty easy.
Car amps are not always very easy to take apart if you have never done it before.
Radioshack guys don't know much at all about real repair work, but they can help find a part you might need.
This can probably be fixed at a repair shop for $60 to $80 depending on the shops rates.
You know one thing for sure, the amp will work if you hold the terminal down. If it was an electrical problem that needed some real troubleshooting done, holding your finger on the power terminal would not make it start working again. This has to be a bad connection inside the amp.
Feel free to ask for more help again if you need it, and if this was helpful to you a good rating would be appreciated. Thanks
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ