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Jeep BA10-5 transmission clutch replacement

I replaced the clutch, throwout bearing/slave cylinder, and master cylinder in my '87 Wrangler, and now it won't go into gear. I was sure to bleed the system properly (several times, using several methods), and I have good pedal pressure, but still no release.
Is it possible that the retaining ******** the throwout bearing didn't break? The new master cylinder isn't the same brand as the old one (the old one is a Girling, this new one is from CarQuest), but all dimensions and capacities appear to be the same. I don't know what to do, and Jeepin' season is almost over! Please help!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Wrangler 2000 clutch

the slave cylinder needs to be level. get a small bubble level and jack up the front or rear appropriately till its level.

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

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SOURCE: 1994 Jeep Wrangler 4cyl - Bleeding slave cylinder

This is not a bleeder hole, this is a weep hole like in a water pump to see when there is seepage past the seals.

Bench bleed the system. With the master cyl. line and slave cyl assembled, place the master cylinder in a vise, fill the master cyllinder. actuate the slave cylinder back and forth lower than the master cyl. This will allow the air to escape upwards back into and out of the master cyl.
Once bled the system can be installed.

Good Luck

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

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SOURCE: 1990 wrangler all new slave cylinder, pressure

If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

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SOURCE: replaced master and slave cylinders for clutch and

Some companies stopped putting the bleeder screws into the slave cylinders. The boss is still there and is threaded but there is no hole in the bottom. You can put a hole in if you wish but they did away with that type because people were having problems bleeding the system. To bleed this style of slave cylinder: 1.Remove the plug from the end of the cylinder where the line goes in. 2. Remove the straps holding the cylinder in. 3. Hold at a 45 degree angle. 3. Pour fluid into the cylinder with the cylinder extended. 4.Slighltly work the cylinder in and out to work any exess air out. Still holding at a 45 angle. 5.Make sure master cylinder has fluid in it. 6. Insert rubber seal and line into slave cylinder while still holding at a 45. 7. Insert roll pin into slave just over half way. This way if you have to remove it you can still get it back out. It probably will not come out if you put it in all the way because they were designed not to come out. You can snip off the straps that hold the piston back. 8. Push the piston back into the slave. This will force any air out that is in the cylinder. 9. Bold slave back on. 10. Pump clutch until it feels right. Make sure there is enough fluid in the resevoir otherwise you will force air into the line. If it dont feel right repeat this process. When all feels right in the petal finish putting the roll pin into the slave cylinder. Good luck. You may need 10 hands!

Posted on Jan 30, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1991 Jeep Wrangler - Clutch pedal has lost pressure

yo it could just be out of fluid!

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

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1 Answer

My 87 jeep wrangler shifts fine when not running. will not manually shift into gear when running?


sounds like your clutch is not disengaging. when you press on the clutch pedal you should feel the resistance of the clutch pressure plate. There is a pilot bearing in the flywheel when it goes bad it continues to turn the transmission mainshaft not allowing your gears to line up for a shift, but you have noticed a bad noise if this were the cause. Or your clutch hydraulics have gone out. check your fluid level. if low you may have sucked some air into your system. you will have to bleed the lines as you would for car brakes. The other possibilities are bad clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder,

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First place you need to look is at the clutch master cylinder on the firewall next to the brake MC. Ifg it's empty then re-fill it and s5tart to look for a leak. It is a sealed system exactly like your brake,therefore any fluid loss indicates a leak. Check on the firewall under the master, where the clutch pedal rod goes into the cylinder under the dashboard (inside the car). Check the line to the slave unit and the slave. It helps to have someone pump the clutch pedal to make any leak more obvious. If you find the leak, replace the part that is leaking. If it appears not to be leaking, replace the master as it can internally bypass and not build pressure.
Bleed valve is located on the slave. Bleed as you would a brake.
Some slave units are part of the throwout bearing...if so, to replace it, the transmission needs to be removed. but bleed valve should be on a line right near the pressure line going into the bellhousing.

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i dont think its bearing problem.Did you fit a [new] master cyclinder,if you did then its the [slave ]cyclinder .,its a pressure problem not a bearing problem.adrian,,,,

Aug 04, 2010 | 1992 Jeep Wrangler

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Remove the bolts holding the slave cylinder to the transmission. Disconnect the hydraulic hose. Reconnect hydraulic hose to new slave cylinder, and install the slave cylinder in it's original position.

Now proceed to bleed the line through the slave cylinder until a solid stream of fluid comes through, and the pedal pressure becomes firm.

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1 Answer

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There are 4 parts to this system. First is the clutch master cylinder, second is the slave cylinder, third is the clutch throwout bearing, and last is the clutch pressure plate. These are all the parts that can be the issue. The master cylinder is the part that pumps the fluid to the slave cylinder, which pushes on the linkage to the throwout bearing, which pushes on the fingers on the clutch pressure plate, releasing the clutch. If you drained the fluid out, first you need to make sure that all the AIR is out of the system. It's just like brakes, it will not pump if it has air in it. The hydraulic portion of the system rarely gives problems, so here's a question. How old is the clutch in your truck? If it's over 100,000 mi, then you should start suspecting the throwout bearing. Did the truck make any groaning noises when you pressed the clutch recently, and then perhaps it stopped on its own? These are signs of throwout bearings going out. Here's the bit of troubleshooting that you need. go under your truck, and find where the slave cylinder attaches and pushes on the linkage that goes into the bell housing on the transmission. Feel this linkage; it should have very limited to no movement. if it moves significantly, then your throwout bearing went out, and you will need to replace your clutch and throwout bearing. If not, then it's the hydraulic portion of the brakes, and you'll have to troubleshoot between air in the system, master cylinder failure, or slave cylinder failure.

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Sounds like the clutch disc it sticking on the input shaft, or you don't have something correctly aligned in the clutch pressure plate. Or possibly the throwout bearing sticking.

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