Question about Hitachi EC25E 5.5 - Horsepower Air Compressor

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Pressure relief valve keeps blowing off at 150 psi releasing all the air. check valve that goes into tank is rusted. I need this compressor for Monday to work!

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You need to spray the valve with WD-40 and let it soak a while. Then get on it with a pipe wrench. Home Depot has a new one. You will be able to replace it today. Try getting it out and put in a new one.
Plan B: Adjust the 'pressure switch' down to 140 PSI and maybe you can run that way for a while until you get a new pressure relief valve. Just turn the adjustment down a bit and keep trying it until it holds air.

(the pressure switch controls the air pressure by conttroling where the motor stops and starts)


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

My Porter Cable pancake air compressor is getting too hot and melting my air hose


ASSUMING THIS IS AN ELECTRIC MOTOR DRIVEN SINGLE STAGE COMPRESSOR, IF THE COMPRESSOR USES OIL IN THE CRANKCASE, THE PRESSURE SWITCH SHOULD CUT OFF AT 125 PSI AS THE ACT OF COMPRESSION HEATS THE AIR QUITE HOT. THERE IS ALWAYS SOME OIL THAT PASSED THE PISTON RINGS IN THE COMPRESSED AIR. IF THE COMPRESSED AIR GETS HOT ENOUGH, THE OIL VAPOR CAN IGNITE AND THE FLAME CAN CARRY TO THE TANK FOR AN IMPRESSIVE EXPLOSION. THIS ORDINARILY DOES NOT HAPPEN BELOW 175PSI OR MORE.

OILLESS COMPRESSORS CAN BE SET TO 150 PSI. WITH EITHER TYPE OF COMPRESSOR, THE HOSE SHOULD BE ATTACHED TO THE REGULATOR OR THE REGULATOR STACK, NEVER TO THE COMPRESSOR, AS THE COMPRESSED AIR LOSES MUCH OF ITS HEAT WHILE IN THE RECEIVER. IF THE WHOLE TANK IS GETTING HOT ENOUGH TO MELT A PROPERLY ATTACHED HOSE, YOU HAVE A DANGEROUS SITUATION, CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE PRESSURE SWITCH, UNLOADER VALVE AND RELIEF VALVE. THE RELIEF VALVE SHOULD OPEN AT NO MORE THAN 150 PSI, THE UNLOADER VALVE OPENS WHEN THE PRESSURE SWITCH SHUTS THE MOTOR OFF, AND SHOULD ONLY HISS FOR A FEW SECONDS AS IT DUMPS THE PRESSURE ONLY IN THE COMPRESSOR AND THE LINE FROM THE COMPRESSOR TO THE TANK INLET CHECK VALVE. IF THE UNLOADER VALVE HISSES MORE THAN A FEW SECONDS, THE TANK INLET CHECK VALVE IS LEAKING AND NEEDS TO BE SERVICED, CLEANED OR REPLACED. IF THERE IS CARBON BUILD UP IN THE VALVE, THERE IS EXCESS OIL PASSING THE COMPRESSOR PISTON RINGS, REPLACING THEM MIGHT FIX THAT IF THE CYLINDER OR RING LANDS ON THE PISTON ARE NOT TOO TAPERED OR WORN.

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The over-pressure relief valve may be defective if the valve is opening before the desired tank pressure is reached. If not, then the shut-off pressure adjustment (if there is one) may be set wrong. You'll need to find out from the manufacturer exactly what static tank pressure the compressor is designed to provide and then determine if it is working correctly. If so, then the relief valve might be defective. DO NOT attempt to defeat the relief valve under any circumstances - it can result in compressor damage or a dangerous tank failure.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dave_fb2c45146b845cea

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Depending on the pressure in the tank when the safety valve releases,the problem is likely your pressure switch. If the pressure is at or above 160 psi when it blows, then the problem is the switch.If the pressure is lower, then it is likely a faulty safety valve. There are about 8 versions of this machine. check on dewalt service net for the correct part. you may need to check ebay if the part is nla thru dewalt.

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Pressure relief valve blows at 80 psi. On a 150 psi valve


I had a problem with the relief valve on my compressor, too. I replaced it with the same value relief valve for short money (under $10) and was done. I suggest doing the same thing to yours.

Good luck!

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1 Answer

Compressor runs until overload release valve opens (pressure at 130 psi) and then air escapes until pressure lowers to 100 psi..Then motor begins to restart, but will not , due to 100 psi and kicks breaker...


There is a check valve between the compressor and tank, and there is also an 'unloader valve' which blows the pressure off the compressor so that it starts under little load. I think your check valve is stuck open and the unloader valve is blowing tank pressure off.. and when the compressor tries to start it's starting against the pressure in the tank.

So check/replace/thaw the check valve and you'll be good to go. It's generally at the tank where the line from the compressor head goes into the tank, it'll be between the two somewhere.

lp

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That is what the relief valve is set at, you need to
either increase the pressure on the relief valve or
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1 Answer

COMPRESSOR RUNS, FILLS TANK, AND THEN LEAKS OFF ALL THE PRESSURE. WHAT IS GOING ON?


Is the air "leaking" from the pressure relief valve? If so it is either faulty or it is doing what is supposed to do. The pressure relief valve is there in case the pressure switch fails.The tank could blow up if the pressure switch fails, so the pressure relief valve is there as a secondary measure to insure the tank does not receive too much air pressure. Assuming your gauge is operating properly, watch the gauge to see if it reaches the maximum pressure (check your manual to find the maximum PSI) or if it goes over the maximum pressure. If it goes over the maximum pressure then replace the pressure switch. If it the motor stops at the maximum pressure, replace the pressure relief valve.

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1 Answer

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If you have the manual, check the compressor and normal pressure settings and ratings - 145 psi sounds high and unless you are using huge air tools. You may not need that kind of pressure. It sounds like the relief valve and motor overload are both doing their jobs to protect the system.

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