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Need layout for pump, expansion tank, psi. reduceing valve etc. for watts radiant heat manifolds 3 zones with brazed plate heat exchanger and outdoor furnace. ihave 3actuators

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  • toptech1ga May 11, 2010

    are you asking for someone to do all the design work for you so you can do the job or do you need some sort of wiring diagram? need to clarify what you need a little more.

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Contact the place that you bought the equipment, they should provide you with that type of information.

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a hot water boiler with 3 zone valves and 2 circulation pumps. I see no relays wired to pumps. Pumps run constantly


Sounds like a lot of unknowns from your article. Here are some basic checks

- if they are the honeywell zone valves and you try to open them and get resistance than 9/10 times the t-stat is not calling for heat and the valve should be closed
-if stat is calling and wants heat zone valve lever should be free of resistance when moving it
- 15-20 psi is a little high but could be normal based on the size of your place and the temperature you are reading these pressures at
-with the pumps always running seems to me that the pumps are hard wired to a constant electrical source, if you want optimal control install a taco zone controller

May 21, 2017 | Water Heaters

Tip

Valve Pressure Reducing or Pressure Reducing Valve


dfef4ee.jpgThe pressure reducing valve on a boiler is the way that the water pressure in the boiler is controlled. The standard pressure for many hot water boilers is considered to be 12 PSI. To keep the boiler pressure at or near the 12 PSI mark a small valve is used for pressure reducing. Most domestic water systems run between 20 and 60 PSI, so the pressure must be reduced for the boiler.

This pressure reducing valve is installed in the pipe that goes from the domestic cold water to somewhere in the piping on the heating system, usually at or near the expansion tank. The valve is mostly maintenance free but will create some problems at times. Some of the things that can go wrong are:

  1. The valve seat can get dirt stuck under it causing water to leak by and increase the pressure in the boiler, causing the relief valve to release water periodically.
  2. The valve can become plugged with dirt causing the boiler to not have enough water pressure, which will cause circulation problems with the boiler pumps.
  3. The valve can leak causing a mess around the boiler area.

Replacement of the pressure reducing valve is not difficult if the installer strategically placed manual valves so that the reducing valve can be isolated from the rest of the system for replacement.
If the water pressure reducing valve fails in any way, it is usually best to just replace the whole valve rather than trying to repair or fix it. I have tried a number of times with only temporary results. These valves are not a high dollar item and the time it takes to fix them is not worth it.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3696173-expansion_water_tank_boiler_expansion

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3705970-heating_circulating_water_pump_problems

on Dec 23, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

Tip

Boiler Leaking Water - The Boiler Leak may not be the boiler


Went on one call today and had another query by Facebook about this so I though why not write an article about it. Both persons were very concerned as they saw water dripping from theirs boilers. A closer inspection for both showed that it had nothing to do with the boiler its self.

There are many things that can make water leak from your boiler. If you know for sure that the water is coming from a hole in the sections then you may have a serious problem. Usually though there is an easy fix for that also, more on that in another article. Both boilers today were leaking water from the relief valve.254c728.jpg

This valve is design to relieve the excess pressure from the boiler in case of a build up of extra pressure in the boiler. The extra pressure can come from a number of different things. A few of the causes may be a bad expansion tank, a bad fill valve or pressure reducing valve, or an open bypass valve. The bypass is easy, just close it and relieve the extra pressure. The others are not as easy.

Your expansion tank is simply a tank that allows water from the system to go in and out according to the pressure in the system.610ab3c.jpg This tank contains about ½ air which acts as a cushion to absorb the extra volume of water that is created as the water is heated. Hotter water takes up more space or volume, so it needs a place to go to when it is heated. If the expansion tank is totally full of water then, it will push water out of the relief valve. Changing your expansion tank will fix the problem.

If the reducing valve or fill valve is leaking by then you can also get extra pressure in the system.8e5ccb4.jpg A normal heating system will only run 10-20 psi pressure. Most well systems or city water is way higher than that. If the pressure in your boiler gets over 30 psi then it will begin to relieve the extra pressure by dripping water.

If you have a drip from your boiler this is what you check. First the expansion tank, the reducing valve, and the bypass valve that bypasses the fill valve. This valve is usually installed to quick fill the system, or purge the water lines of air.

Often there is just a small problem that looks like a big problem. Do not get excited and methodically check through the possibilities. You will usually find that the problem is not nearly as bad as you first thought that it was.

on Dec 06, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

We have radiant floor heating system ran with /wirsbo valves. One zone is not working..not heating at all. The valve seems to open up when thermostat is turned on but not heating room. Any suggestions?


Are you able to isolate the Zone?
If you are able to isolate the Zone, is there anyway you can bleed air out of the system?

1) turn off the other zones and see if this one starts to heat up,
if not. Try to bleed Air out of the main header until it gets warm. If this does not work, do you have to manually add water or is it an auto fill system? Make sure that is working or manually add water.

Oct 30, 2013 | Uponor Wirsbo A3010526 Thermal Zone Valve...

2 Answers

Ineed info on changing a expansion valve ona split a/c unit


If indoor coil TXV then start by pumping system down-while system is running in the cool mode close discharge line valve at outdoor unit (the small line) watch low pressure side of gauges as needle falls start closing the other valve idealy u want valve completely closed around the same time the PSI reaches "0" and kill power at disconnect by unit at the same time. Now your refrigerant is in the outdoor unit. However if TXV was completely closed off you may have refrigerant between the TXV and outdoor unit in the little line in which case that would have to be recovered into a cylinder. Now you can remove old TXV also remove filter drier if is one and install new one just before TXV either way this is to catch any trash or moisture left in system. Next pull a vacuum on the system perferably down to 500 microns if not pull for 45min close gauges and let sit 10min or so and see that needle doesnt rise if it does u have a leak find leak and repair start process over. Its best if u have nitrogen or CO2 to put some pressure on lines before pulling vacuum upto about 100PSI and bubble soap joints see that pressure doesnt drop then release pressure and start vacuum once vacuum complete open valves on outdoor unit.(do not remove hoses from lines until valves opened or u loose vacuum and have to start over) reconnect power and check charge by subcooling method add or remove refrigerant if needed. ADD:if u have to braze TXV in then wrap it with a wet rag so it doesnt get to hot and damaged.

Aug 27, 2012 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Whats the routine for fitting a new expansion tank? HELP At what pressure should the overpressure relief valve lift?


Hello, not know the size of your system I can only give you the standard answer. Most expansion tanks are sized by the amount of water they will hold, however a rule of thumb has been a smaller 4 zone system will have a 7 gallon tank with 12 psi charge. Larger systems will sometime go has much as 30 gallons but, the charge is still 12psi. The relief valve should be a 30psi set but, again on larger systems it will be 50 psi. The 12psi is a standard auto fill valve max and you want to match the charge of the expansion tank to the auto fill valve setting. Hope this helps.

Dec 30, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

PSCZ Residential Irrigation Controller issue - reset it and it reverts back to time on the display that does not exist like 9001 etc... also wondering.. the pressure that comes out of the sprinklers...


I would replace the controller. As for your pressure, you can adjust your pressure switch to a higher pressure. A 40-60 psi setting gives an average pressure of 50 psi.Keep in mind that your expansion tank should have an air pressure setting 2 psi lower than your cut in pressure. There is a schraeder valve at top of tank where you can pump in air. Change the tank pressure before you adjust the press switch, which has simple instructions on the inside of the cover of the switch.

Nov 16, 2017 | Plumbing

1 Answer

I have a slant fin s 180 radiant heating system. The temperature in the water runs from 60 degrees to 150 degrees. However the presure runs from 15lbs to well over 30lbs at times and then the releaf valve...


Tap on the expansion tank with a screw driver. If it sounds hollow, great. If it gives you a thud sound, change it. If you have a plate exchanger or water heater tank, you could have an internal leak and allowing house water pressure to seep into your heating system. You may have to shut off the water supply to the water heater or plate exchanger to see if the boiler pressure remains at 15lbs.

Feb 15, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

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