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Well, there are a couple things in the troubleshooting process you may want to check first. If Possible,
1. Have you tried a different pair of headphones thru the same jack?, Is it buzzing as well? Then its not the headphones. If the buzzing stops with a different pair, then we proceed to to headphones in question.
so , headphones are buzzing. Both sides? if yes , or even 1-side, then yes, it is a ground issue. can you expose the wiring at the input jack?
Basically, you want to put an ohm meter on each wire and independently check each wire for continuity. check for any breaks in the line, and or check to see if a wire is crossing over to ground via a break. so check each line to itself, then each line to each other.
if you fo not understand on the process of using an ohm meter? you can go to this You Tube link and it will give you a general understanding.
hopefully this gives you a little insight? If not?, ask the question again, and also include the make & model of the headphone set. that always helps;m Thanks,
You have two aux sends on that mixer so quite easy to use one of those to feed the external power amp. You could have one set of spkrs connected to that amp and another connected to the powered mixer. This would give you full independent control over each set.
Real basic owners manual is here: http://www.crateamps.com/pdf/manuals/CA6110DG_OM.pdf
Look at the chassis, or pull a part number off the original speaker to match speaker and back cross reference to the amp versions that used it. The OM is at least good enough with the block diagram to allow it to be serviced easily enough.
There are several reasons why this could be happening, assuming it's Windows, not MAC.
-Check to make sure the OUT port isn't set. You only need IN for basic controller use.
- Make sure the channel your using is armed (button below Solo & Mute should be red) [this is the most likely problem]
Another problem is the USB power settings in Windows. The default is set to allow the Computer to monitor and turn off USB ports automatically to save power. But it doesn't turn them back on automatically. You'll want change these settings regardless to help reduce latency issues.
-Go to Device Manager> USB Controllers> double click & change power settings to OFF for all Root Hubs.
Here is a guide to help optimize Windows to lessen Latency, Dropouts and Clicks /Pops. It's for Studio One, but the settings are the same for Windows.
You might want to give Studio One a try. I've used everything and by far Studio One is the easiest with the least issues. The free version is better than most DAWS paid versions. It can definitely help eliminate a lot of the everyday headaches that come with using Abelton, Cubase, Protools and even FruityLoops (which is pretty gay anyway).
M-Audio is also notorious for USB hardware related issues. A lot of times I find it turns out to be a bad connection between the plug and keyboard port, which tends to wear after awhile. It can go unnoticed because it still fits tight enough to get power, but not enough to keep the board fully functional.
Mine did the same thing. Just by chance we had a universal laptop power supply unit with interchangeable tips made by powertran & my wife said to give it a try. The unit has a display window on it & it reads 16.9 volts when the zoom is running. When I plugged it in I couldn't believe it was going through it's start up menu. On the package it says 15 - 20 volts DC 90 watts & I reckoned it shocked the zoom into working again...well anyway, it worked & the zoom is running again. The power box package cost $89AU that I got at an electronics store.
From what I remember from my recent tinkering you press the guide select button. Then either use the patch/value know and parameter buttons, OR it may be the guide level knob to switch the volume down until it is off. I believe I then saved the patch to preserve the setting and keep that irritating guide at bay! It really should be more intuitive, ideally knod turned to zero = OFF. But no. Ah well, hope you get it sorted. I have a problem too, maybe you have same one? It may be the unit itself. Search - Beggining of loop missing on FIRST playback - if you get a chance. Let me know if yours does it too?
You might have a ground problem. Does it do it in different outlets or when you take it to someone else's house? One easy solution to ground problems can be running a three prong to two prong adapter on the power cable. Give that a try and see if it helps.