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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
I do not know what type of ice maker you have. Some have wire arms on the side, some have a downward plastic curved arm and some have a paddle arm on the side.
Some ice makers when they harvest have a plastic ice mold that rotate and flex, others have a little heater that heats the mold then activates finger arms to rotate and sweep the cubes from the mold.
Bad Sensor? All ice makers have temperature sensors. The sensor activates the harvesting of ice cubes when it senses the cubes are frozen. On some plastic ice cube molds it is a white wire on the bottom of the mold. On the cast steel molds the sensor is in contact with the mold at the front end.
Bad Motor Module? All ice makers have a motor module. The module has a control board and plastic gearing for the motor with in the module. The motor module is the assembly in front of the ice maker. The motor module tells the water valve when & how much water to fill the mold. It tells the mold heater, on the cast steel molds when to turn on after it reads the temperature sensor and then it tells the motor when to start rotation.
Not all ice makers can be repaired. Most are solid state.
The ice maker with the cast steel mold can be repaired. Remove the ice maker - Unscrew the one screw under the ice maker. Loosen the 2 screws on top so you can lift up and remove the ice maker from the wall. With a small screw driver wedge in the wire harness connector to free the icemaker. Pop the front cover off (No screws). Unscrew the 3 screws on the motor module and remove. This part is replaceable. Inspect for Burn marks and broken gearing. Unscrew the 2 screws to the heater and mold assembly to access the sensor - this is replaceable. There is no way to test this sensor.
The ice mold tray has built up deposits that "glue" the ice cubes to the tray. This usually means you will have to change the mold tray. You could try vinegar or lemon juice to clean it but the trays are not that expensive.
Dose the whole cube have a black tint to it? or dose it have black flakes in it? If all the ice has a solid black tent to it then check your water filter most all filters has charcoal in them when you change one out and apply water to them you need to dump the ice until you get clear ice. Now if it is just black flakes in ice than you need to clean the ice machine with scotsman cleaner nickle safe and scotsman sanitizer follow manufacturers instructions.
Cory, you sound like you have a bad water valve as well as a bad control board for your dispensor. If you've had any storms in your area in the past 4 - 6 weeks, it's very possible that the storm took both parts out.
We have parts for GE as well as mots other major brands, so please give us a call with your complete model number and we will get your parts out to you right away!
We hope this solves your problem and we look forward to being able to assist you with future issues.
The inside coating has come off the inside of the ice maker . The white " flakes " is calcium deposits , sticking to the exposed cast metal , inside the ice maker , and sticking to the cubes , after water freezing in the mold . You need to replace the ice maker .
If you also get the flakes with the water from the water dispenser it could be the water chiller reservoir behind the crisper in the fridge.
If it's just the ice maker the non stick surface in the ice mold may be coming loose.
Undissolved minerals can appear when ice cubes are added to chilled drinking water. Freezing tap water causes dissolved minerals to solidify and scatter, giving a cloudy appearance. When ice cubes melt, any undissolved minerals settle to the bottom. These mineral compounds in our drinking water are naturally occurring and safe. Sometimes we see black particles which can be the non-stick surface of the ice mold flaking off.
I'm assuming you are saying there is no ice and water being dispensed, but that the ice maker is producing ice.
Actual ice maker operation is independent of the fountain which is for dispensing only.
The power is checked at the fountain board on wires Red/Black and White. The door must be closed when doing this check as power goes through the door switch. If no power is present, check the same wires at the connector under the upper door hinge cover.
The next check would be Red/Black to Blue while depressing the actuator pad button.
Outputs off the board are Pink to auger motor, Black to fountain water valve, other Black to fountain light, Violet to cube solenoid, the two brown wires go to the ice chute door solenoid.
The ice maker can be checked by removing the plastic cover up front. Check test points L to N for 120VAC. Short test points T and H to cycle the ice maker. Make sure it does not have ice or water in the mold already, or it will run over.
Of course last but not least, check water to the refrigerator. It is a dual valve and unlikely both solenoids could fail at the same time.