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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: LXGH E5 Code
I need to check my codes to be positive. And I'll check them this weekend. But, I believe E5 is from excess water in the unit, and so it won't go into rinse and add more water.
First and most common -- the drain hose, at the back of the unit is kinked. The unit gets pushed back against the wall and kinks the line.
Second, your probes are dirty. The ones in the back right corner detect water level. Clean them with a green scrungee even if they look clean.
Good luck - Mike
Posted on May 10, 2008
You most likely need to set your valve clearances. If it is hard to
pull over or the recoil snaps back after starting your valves need to
be set for sure. This may not be the entire problem but it is a good
start. Also change the spark plug, a bad plug will cause odd problems
and is too cheap not to eliminate as a source. In addition check your
fuel, pour a little out into a white container (I like spray paint can
caps for this) and look at the color. If it is yellow to orange it is
bad. You can pour it into you car, the car electronic sensors will
compinsate for it quality but a small engine can't. Use a NGK BP6ES or
10mm open end wrench
14mm open end wrench
1 long shaft screw driver or rod
1 spark plug socket and ratchet
Remove the spark plug and the valve cover. Pull the recoil over slowly until the intake valve opens (intake is closes to the carb and it will go down when it opens). Now put your long screwdrive down the spark plug hole. Slow pull the engine over until the screwdriver handle is at it highest point, this is top dead center. It may take a few attempts. Now check your valve clearance between the rockers and the top of the valve. The intake should be .006 and the exhaust .008, both can be +/- .001. To adjust: hold the large nut with the 14mm then loosen the small one with the 10mm. Lefty loosey. Now turn your large nut until you get the correct setting and then tighten the small one the lock it in. It may take a few attempts and alway reverify your setting after you lock it down. Once done, find top dead center again and reverify. Now your valves are set.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
In general all pressure washers have a control valve. This is sometimes refered to as the Spill Valve. When the trigger is pulled, the spill valve is in normal position. When the trigger is released, the spill valve compresses to let water circulate from its bottom part. If when the trigger is pulled and the bottom part of the spill valve does not close, then water keeps on circulating and hence no pressure. In this case change the spill valve with a new one. Also there could be a fault in the sucktion valves. If the sucktion vaves do not close, also water keeps on circulating. One also can examine the delivery valves. If these are not closing, then water is being sucked while delivering. Hence no pressure. Another cause but very rare, is that the swash plate that is pushing the pistons got loose. The electric motor will be turning, but the pistons stay in the same position.
I mentioned many causes, but usualy it is the spill valve. If with a new spill valve, there is still no pressure....then you must tackle the sucktion and then the delivery valves.
I wish to add that I assume that you have the correct lance and correct nozzel size. A worn out nozzel, will result in low prssure too.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
They have a problem. I removed both valves and lubed with lithium grease as I was told. Unit is now working for how long who knowes.
Posted on May 19, 2009
Hi, Karcher calls the unloader valve a spill valve,
this is a link to a full drawing/parts listing , and your fault description might well be a sticking /seized unloader(spill ) valve hope this helps
the part number is on page 9 of the drawing
spill valve 45910400
hope this helps , we usually use some good quality silicone grease to lube the valve ,
Posted on Mar 08, 2010
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