Question about GE Adora DSS25KSTSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
Adora DSS25KG stopped working on the refrigerator side, the freezer seems to be functioning. The light was out on that side too, came back on for a moment after the water filter was reset, then went out again.
This is a side-by-side and the cold is produced on the freezer side and then has to transfer to the frig side. There are 2 main factors that cause this problem: 1st, the fan motor inside the freezer section is not pushing the cold air and only the freezer benefits, that is the fan motor is stuck , broken , or a disconnected wire to it , or clogged with frost.
2nd, there is too much frost built up behind the back panel of the freezer and no air can circulate to move the needed cold air. If you press on the back panel of the freezer wall and you hear/feel a solid crunch, then there is solid frost that must be removed.
This frost is removed by the defrost cycle system (provided it is working properly). If the frost is there, then there are several components involved: defrost timer ( which in this case may be part of the circuit control board instead of a seperate timer switch), or a defrost thermostat that senses the end of defrosting and it went bad (just like a house heater thermostat that no longer controls the heater) or the heater coil (which is behind the freezer back panel) that melts the frost each day. If the frost isthere and is thick, you need to remove all food, remove back panel, and aloow the door to stay open for hours to melt the ice or use a hair dryer to speed it up; then and only then can you access the defrost heat coil and the defrost thermostat ---- which means you now need to know how to test them to see what is bad or good. Good Luck, If you never did this and you still want to get involved, either buy a good reair manual, or do all the preliminary work and call a service person to test and replace any faulty part. Macgivor
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
The light is probably unrelated to the cooling problem.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
INSIDE THE DISPENSER ASSEMBLY IS A SEPARATE ELECTRONIC BOARD THAT CONTROLS THE DISPENSER.
OCCASIONALLY, THE DOOR SOLENOID OR THE CUBE ICE SOLENOID WILL SHORT OUT CAUSING A BURNOUT OF THE DISPENSER CONTROL BOARD. CHECK FOR A BURNT SMELL COMING FROM THE DISPENSER HOUSING. IF YOU SMELL IT, THE BOARD AND/OR SOLENOID NEED TO BE REPLACED.
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem The ice and water-dispensing system of your refrigerator is quite complex. Many components work together to provide the ice and water. Aside from a simple problem of a leaky water tube or a jammed ice chute, most other components are not user serviceable. We suggest that you contact a qualified appliance repair technician for such repairs.
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
The auto defrost heat element is not working. When the ice buildup clogs the airflow the unit stops cooling. Once you unplug it and give it a chance to melt it works again. You need to have the defrost unit replaced.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
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