2 yr old ridge was working last night, this afternoon all the food was defrosted and ice cubes melted! The refigerator part seems to be working ok, what could have happened? There is a clicking noise that I noticed. It seems like there is motor trying to turn on, but doesn't then clicks. Help please before calling a tech. Thanks, Estelle
P.S.- the produce will only let me put the one in that is in there and in the fridge is says JFC2087HRS seriel# 10784714GA
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Re: Freezer is not freezing...
2 possibilities one is a bad start relay on the comp or the comp could be bad. the relay is faily inexpensive and you should be able to replace it your self if the compressor is bad it will require a technician. good news is the refrig is under 5 yrs old and the compressor should be in warranty still
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Maybe the freezer defrost drain is blocked. Sometimes the water freezes in the drain and the next time the defrost cycle occurs the water can't drain correctly. Is there any water inside the refrigerated section of the unit? Also there may be a catch pan under the fridge that is misaligned or out of place or the drain line isn't positioned to place the defrost water into the pan. Most modern refrigerators are frost free and defrost the freezer on a regular timed cycle. This is why your ice cubes shrink and stick together and why you get freezer burn on the food left in them for extended time.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
The normal setting for a freezer is -2 to +2 degrees F., and the normal setting for the fresh food section is +35 to +40 degrees F.
You only have one source of cooling and that is your freezer. With the settings that you have, you are asking your unit to do what it is not designed to do.
The ice maker is struggling because if it is a cast steel ice cube mold, the heater beneath it is not designed for the current to break the ice cubes free @ -18 degrees F., or if you have a plastic flex ice cube mold it is too ridged to flex enough to break the ice cubes free. Normally your ice maker should dump 8-10 times in a 24 hour period.
A note on food storage. Make sure you do not overload your freezer of fresh food section to the point where food product extends beyond the edge of the shelves.
It could be many things. My first guess would be the defrost. The coil that gets cold in your freezer builds ice on it and the only way to get the ice off is to run a heater near the coil long enough for the ice to melt. All freezers have something built in to defrost and domestic are typically just an electric heater on a timer. When your freezer stops working again, you may want to pull open the panel of your freezer and see if your coil (a heat exchanger that probably looks a lot like your car radiator) is covered in ice. If it is, it could be the timer or the actual heater that is bad.
you can unplug it and let it defrost on it's own or you can melt out the air ducts,you'll have to shut down the freezer,remove the shelves and remove the inside back wall of the freezer section and melt out all the ice in the right hand corner and any ice on the coil.when melting out the air ducts be careful not to damage any of the plastic or styrofoam on or inside the wall,heat up the area with a hair dryer for a couple of minutes and then move to the coil,after a minute or two go back the the air duct,when you think it's melted out enough turn the freezer back on and with your hand check to make sure the air is blowing into the fridge side,if you can feel air blowing then your all set,if there's any ice left in there the defrost will take care of it.if you have another fridge to put your food in or if the food can't be refrozen i'd just unplug it and let it melt out on it's own over night and you can clean it out while everything is out of it.let me know how you make out and good luck,hope you didn't loose that much food
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
The fan that circulates air in the freezer compartment is frozen & not circulating air - resulting in a freezer compartment that is cool but not cold.The reason is that the “heater & bracket” that warms & defrosts the evaporator coil & the fan above it has died & w/no defrosting, the coil & the fan load up with frost & ice & stop working.
Temporary Solution: 1) Unplug the frig. 2) Take all the food & shelves out of the freezer.Put it ALL in one cardboard box; this will keep it from defrosting while you get the freezer working. 3) Take out the ice maker storage bin (the thing that's full of ice cubes) & dump the ice cubes.(if you leave them in the freezer, they will melt & refreeze & make a disaster). 4) There is a metal panel below the lights & it should have frost & ice built on it. 5) Get two (not one) hair driers, set them on high heat & melt all the frost & ice & keep on melting & defrosting for about 10 minutes. 4) Plug the frig back in. 5) The freezer fan should be turning. 6) Put the shelf & food back in & close the door. 7) Expect this problem to reoccur in one to four months...
Solution: 1) Get a “heater & bracket” GE part number WR51X10055, about $30 w/shipping on eBay.This is for a GSS25KGSA GE side by side (the last two letters WW, BB, & CC are colors).If you have a different GE side by side, the correct part number can easily be found at www.searspartsdirect.com.Nice drawings. 2) Unplug the frig. 3) Take all the food & shelves out of the freezer.Put it ALL in one cardboard box; this will keep it from defrosting while you get the freezer working. 4) Take out the ice maker storage bin (the thing that's full of ice cubes) & dump the ice cubes. 5) Take out the light cover.One Philips screw on top & two press-to-release plastic things on the bottom. 6) Unscrew the light bulbs. 7) Take out the metal panel below the lights.Four ¼” screws.It is held in by two tabs at the top, so swing the bottom out & pull it down.Be careful not to bend it. 8) Get two (not one) hair driers, set them on high hot & melt all the frost & ice on the evaporator coil.Do NOT touch it. 9) Remove the “Heater & Bracket” by unscrewing the two Phillips screws and then unplugging the red & blue wires. 10) Install the new “Heater & Bracket” by plugging in the red & blue wires & replacing the two screws.Be careful not to get it backwards when plugging the wires; only goes one way. 11) Put the back panel back in & secure it with the 4 ¼” screws. 12) Reinstall the lights & cover. 13) Plug the frig back in. 14) Put the shelves & food back in & close the door. 15) Expect this problem to reoccur every 3-4 years; great designs fail after the warranty is up, and keep the repairmen & parts people employed …
p.s. about once a year, you should vacuum all the accumulated dust off the condenser coils. They are hidden behind a metal cover at the bottom back of the refrig. If you don't, expect the dust eventually block all airflow & the compressor will burn up & you will be buying a new frig. Generic GE Side by Side Refrigerators GSS25KGSA, GSS25KGSAWW, GSS25KGSABB, GSS25KGSACC.
Your discribing 2 opposite symptoms. But 1 thing may be causing both. first thing I think of is a defective defrost heater safety switch. It allowes the food -and freezer compartment to become too warm during defrost. This allowes the food to un freeze. then when defrost is terminated the temp goes back under freezing til the next defrost. 3 to 5 cycles like this and yes you could ahve freezer burn and icecream melting. DOes the ice cream refreeze too? If so you have to remove the freezer pannel covering the evaporastor coil inside the freezer. Locate the defrost safety.
1 of 3 kinds 2 opf these are b8-metal switches and are round and of these 2 kinds 1 is about nickel size and the other is about quarter size and both are round and can be attached to the coil tubing or the freezer wall. Usually these 2 kinds are on Refg/Freezers with no electronics on the door or thermostat.
If you have an Led or LCD display you ahve electronic controls and in most cases have an electronic thermisitor about 1" long and 1/4 to 3/8 inch dia and insulated and attached to the freezer coil line leaving the freezer or on one of the U bends of the coil. It may be attached with a plastic wire tie. (The tie could be broken but this is doubtful from discription).
1st freezer burn is usually caused by drying out of the food while still frozen. And this is why your case is so interesting by doing it so quickly. In all cases 1 the food is not in air tight containers. And the water in the food is being drawn out of it.