Question about Husqvarna Designer I

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Remove Cover How Do I get the cover off? I have all the screws out from the rear including the 2 under the handle, and I have released the plastic "catches" on the end and inside - but it is still caught somewhere and I don't want to force it. Do I need to remove any of the screws on the underside or is there a secret trick I'm missing?

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  • radcal May 11, 2010

    What machine are you attempting to open?



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Sorry for asking which machine you are opening. I got to this post through multiple links and didn't realize I was in a Designer 1 area.

Yes, you do need to remove screws in the bottom to remove the covers. I do not recommend that you do this due to electrical safety issues. When the front cover is lifted away from the machine, you will find 6 different types of connectors attaching cables between the front cover and the machine. You will be able to move the front cover approximately 3.5 inches away from the machine to reach in and disconnect these cables. The touch screen cable, if it has not been replaced, is very short and very fragile and will cause the touch screen to stop working in the blink of an eye. If you don't know what you are doing, it is dangerous for both you and the machine.

Posted on Jan 13, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Can't take top off Singer 6215c, because levers on the front and bobbin winder on the top are in the way. What am I not seeing to do?

Rest assured, there IS a way to get it off! However, in your case, I would purchase the service manual for your machine; it will describe how to get the sides and top off, and in which order they should go. For instance, It's possible that before you take off the top, you have to take off one side. You can purchase it for a nominal sum; has a great many of these service manuals, and if they don't have it, they can order it for you.

Jan 19, 2014 | Singer Sewing Machines

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I have a Husqvarna classica 100 sewing machine that has sat unused for a few years. Now the stitich lenght will not adjust. It sews super tiny stitches no matter what the setting. I have tried to take...

With the small phillips screw under the handle removed, place your fingers on the ledge that the handle rests in while it's down, thumbs on the lower edge of the back cover below your fingers, pull slightly toward you and up at the same time. The cover needs to come out at the upper edge and then straight up to unhook from 3 screws that it hooks over.

Oct 30, 2011 | Husqvarna Viking 1

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After winding 2 new bobbins, the LED screen remains showing the bobin being wound, even when bobin is removed from spindle and spindle is mived back to the left.

The front panel circuit board has a microswitch which is activated mechanically when the bobbinwinder is moved to the winding position. The error is most likely with the microswitch stuck in one position. The remedy requires you to have moderate mechanical aptitude. The best thing to do would be to take it to your dealer for repair. If you want to try to do it yourself, here you go:
  • Open the top lid and, with a straight slotted screwdriver, remove the two large silver screws
  • Close the lid and raise the handle into the carry position
  • Loosen, but don't remove, the small phillips screw underneath where the right side of the handle rests
  • Pull the top of the right side cover over slightly
  • Remove the small phillips screw underneath where the left side of the handle rests
  • With the handle up in the carry position and the lid closed, lift the entire top cover from the left side first, exposing where the handle attaches underneath
  • Carefully bend the lower part of the handle to the right and detach it from its mount
  • Remove the top cover and handle
  • With the top cover removed, you can see the bobbinwinder arm make contact with the microswitch
  • If you are extremely careful to not touch the circuit board with your bare fingers or with a metal object, you can manually press the microswitch to see if it works
  • The plastic microswitch "button" may have become detached
  • The "spring" on the end of the bobbinwinder arm may have become bent
  • Don't remove the bobbinwinder assembly

Nov 09, 2010 | Janome Memory Craft 4900QC Mechanical...

1 Answer

Neddle brakes - Out off the course when sewing large patterns

The reason of this missbehave is a destroyed plastic buffer, which is attached to the move limiter for the needle bar frame. It is quite a little delicate to open the machine's housing due to some hidden scews. Neccesary is to open it. You have to empty the accesory drawer. Then you have to remove the underside cover. The right side cover must be removed as well (take care of the screw which fixes the middle part of this. It is found from below through a small channel, just fitting a screw driver through the hole). Below the movable small table at the lower left front, there is a small turnknob for adjusting the horizontal alignment of big patterns. This knob has to be pulled out, also the round cover below it (best use a little hook and pull the cover out at its small hole seen from below). Remove the two screws directly under the movable table. Remove all screws, which are fixing the front cover from below the machine. Remove the hood which covers the needle bar just as you would like to change the light bulb). There are two scews to be removed holding the front cover. The foot presser handle has to be removed as well. Now gently pull the front cover off the machine. It might be neccesary to help moving the cover at the upper side, inserting a screw drivers blade into the gap between cover and machine frame. The cover should snap off now, if there are no forgotten screw connections left.
After the cover is released, take care of the ribbon cable, wich connects the display etc. with the electronich mainboard. the ribbon cable can be teared out carefully of the mainboard connector. Now you have clear sight onto the needle bar's mechanics. if you push the needle bar to the right, you can see, that the needle bar frame is stopped from a small metal piece, fixed with two screws. At the touch point of the frame and the metal piece, there is (or was) the plastic buffer, which is now destroyed and has the consistence of used chewing gum.
There are two choices: Either you find a spare part metal piece with good plastic buffer or you will have to improvise the buffer by handcrafting it.
After you repaired the metal piece, you will have to adjust it.
Moving the needle bar to the right, the needle bar clutch have to release the needle bar before the needle is over the point to stitch to the plate.

Remark: Due to the different length of the screws it might be a good idea to give some notes, which length belong to which hole.

Wish a good success,


Feb 06, 2010 | Singer Quantum XL-6000 Computerized Sewing...

1 Answer

I have a Pfaff 7570 and I would like to adjust the thread tension. Most of the time when embroidering it is set at 1 or 0...and never higher than 3-4. Also I can't get the light bulb end out. it broke...

Lift top cover. remove top cover (flat springs on each end of cover - move one with your finger and top will come off. Lift handle. Look to right of handle end over the head. There is a screw there. LOOSEN screw and front cover will slide away from head. Bunch up a paper towel or napkin and press into broken bulb socket and turn same counter clockwise to get bulb socket out. Good Luck!

Jul 01, 2009 | PfaFF Creative 7570

1 Answer

I can`t get the face cover off to oil it

on some of the kenmores there are 2 screws under the carring handle on the top of the machine you have to remove these. then lay the machine back and remove the screws on the bottom.the case should come of. if not there might be screws on the inside of the bottom plate.

Mar 09, 2009 | Kenmore 15516 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

How can I get the case of my Singer Featherweight II open?

To remove the cover of the Singer model 117 Featherweight II sewing machine:

Referring to the diagram below:
1.Remove the face plate by removing the single screw fastening it to the left end of the chassis.

To make things easier, remove the presser foot (raise the presser foot and release the presser foot from its holder by pressing the black plastic foot release found at the rear of the foot holder, the foot will fall off.)

3.Remove the plastic see-thru slide plate that covers the bobbin. Remove the bobbin, and remove the two screws that secure the needle plate.Lift off the needle plate.Don't mess with the feed dog screws( Look closely at the" bobbin case assembly" and note how it is installed. The black thing you are looking at is the assembly. The chrome thing that looks like a hook is a fixed "bobbin case stop plate" , the case assembly fits under that and is supported by the hook race. Approximately 180 degrees from the fixed stop is a spring stop- note that the bobbin case assembly is free to rotate/ wiggle approximately 1/8" between these two points, and it is seated evenly in the hook race.Remember what you see so you can reinstall it later)Remove the bobbin case assembly with your fingers.

4.Remove the detachable tool case from the front of the machine by sliding it to the left.

5.The face cover is fastened to the chassis with four screws- two on the bottom which also pass through the bottom of the rear cover, one behind the face plate just above the lower thread guide, and one on the front of the machine behind the tool case. Remove the screws on the front and the left end, and loosen the two screws on the bottom ( if you are planning to remove the rear cover go ahead and remove the bottom screws completely.) There is no need to remove the screws that hold the auxiliary leg bar.

6.The screws are out- HOW DO I GET THE COVER OFF!?!
There is a hidden locking tab located just beneath the mylar seal that warns you to disconnect the machine before servicing and to close the cover before operating the machine. It is located just to the right of the needle plate and directly over the seam that separates the front and back covers. Don't remove the seal just slice it with a razor blade or utility knife right along the seam, make sure you cut all the way through the seal.

Working from the needle plate opening, take a medium sized flat-bladed screw driver and slide it under the rear cover just behind the seam (see photo) carefully twist the blade in a manner that both separates and lifts the rear cover off the front cover- it takes quite a bit of force and it will let loose with a loud snap. After the locking tab is loose the front cover is easily separated and lifted off the chassis.

unlocking the case:

a closeup of the tab on the front cover

7.The rear cover is held on by three screws. There is one through the back at the handle recess, and there are two screws accessible from the front after the front cover is removed. Lower the presser foot lever, pull the screws and the rear cover will come off easy. Good luck with your repairs.

Nov 10, 2008 | Singer Featherweight II 117

1 Answer

Brother 8200/8500 Upgrade -- opening machine and replacing motherboard

hi, to open the pc-8200 first you need remove the right cover these have 1 screw under a plastic cap.
now you remove the 2 plastic cover in the left side upper and low these are onlu a screw in the back an remove pull to the left side.

Next remove the plastic cover where rest the embroidery these have two screw, you can see easy...

at this time you have only the front & rear cover, this have a hiden screw and lot of presure grapes.

if you need more help sendme a email

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Trouble removing face cover for oiling

Remove the 2 round plastic plugs on the front. Use a needle to pry them out. They come off easily. there are two screws under each plug. Good luck...

Jun 04, 2007 | Husqvarna Husky 165

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