I've got three sunpak flash units. One of them is working flawlessly. The other two on the other hand fire at full power independant of powerratio setting or in manual or auto mode.
What is the problem and is it salvegable?
Laszlo is likely correct, the turn-off circuit isn't working to cut the flash off. It can be either the capacitor or the SCR (thyristor). Its like micro-surgery to take one of these flashes apart, but it's possible. My Metz 45CT-5 did the same thing, it was a faulty turn-off thyristor.
The probable cause of such behavior is a faulty quench capacitor. The part is specially manufactured to withstand rather high voltage (350 V) and large current peaks (300 A) - despite of its small dimensions - and often goes wrong. Replace it with a capacitor cannibalized from a cheap second-hand shoe-mount flash having the same feature (series thyristor circuitry) and as high guide number as available. Both Sunpak units are highly populated inside, only try to repair them if you have a certain skills in such a job. If any of these explanations is unfamiliar for you then leave the flash alone and take it to a repair shop - there is lethal voltage inside, even long after the unit has been switched off. Good luck! Laszlo (kalaci at index dot hu)
a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to an Expert (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It's hard to diagnose a problem without knowing the details...what camera, what kind of mount -- off camera, on camera, remote fire? One thing I have found is that accessories that aren't the same brand as the camera won't function fully in TTL. They don't interact with the camera's processor the way the one made for the camera will, in most instances. I have found a few exceptions. Cameras are moving forward so fast the accessory manufacturers get left behind.
Your sunpak works great as a slave triggered by a main flash in -- I believe that model has a slave function. Great fun hand held or with a tripod. Best of luck!
Are your pictures properly exposed? Does this flash have power settings on the back? If so, move it back to full power. If your pictures are properly exposed then its doing what its supposed to. If no power setting on the back, check what ASA you have it set for. 800 or 1000 speed film requires much less light than 200 speed film. Adjust ASA based on your film.
Regarding using the Sunpak 4000AF flash with my Canon EOS Digital Rebel, I can't get the flash to fire. There seems to be no combinations of settings that works to make the flash work. Could a weak battery in the Canon cause this? Does it require some other wire connector between the flash and the camera?
I know this is old technology now, I have a pocket digital for most of my uses, but I'd like to try bounce flash again on my old Rebel digital, and so I've gotten out my old camera and the flash I had bought for it. I had bought the Sunpak flash years ago and I honestly don't remember if I got it to work back then or not.
I had the same problem - 10-11 secs on 240VAC. My solution was to get the Quantum Turbo SC for $450. It yields ~3sec recycle times. This pack for $150 should play nicely as well: http://www.adorama.com/JTMBPN.html?searchinfo=jtl+lancer+battery+pck It was out of stock at the time. The Sunpak TR2000 is $250, but it's Ni-Cd while the others are NiMH. There are other HV packs capable of powering the 622 w/ the fitting cable like Lumedyne IIRC. The AD-26 is still useful for non-action photography. The fastest time I saw posted is 1.5 secs, but it's a DIY job (search 'sunpak 622' on flickr). HTH, Szilard
Sunpak does not offer dedicated (TTL) module to any digital cameras. The flash can only be used in auto mode, while the camera is set to full manual. The lens has to be stopped down according the working aperture on the flash, correct exposure will be maintained by the built-in sensor of the flash. Fire the flash using a simple hotshoe-to-PC cube if your camera doesn't sport a PC connector. Trigger voltage of the 622 is safe.
There can be more than one causes. If intermittent work mean that in, at least, some cases the strobe fires normally and the internal sensor controls the power as it should, then the most probable cause is a diry contact at the either end of the PC cord or a broken wire in the cord. Clean with any gentle method or disconnect-reconnect a dozen times in order to rub off the oxidization, or replace in the latter case. If it doesn't help then the culprit can be a cold solder joint inside the flash, the repair of which asks for a technician with skills. If the intermittent work means that the flash always fires, but sometimes with the correct power and sometimes with full power, then the case is more sophisticated, and surely needs a repair of internal circuitry. See the description of such issue for a Sunpak 522 elsewhere in Fixya Good luck, Laszlo
Try to trigger it by shorting Center of shoe mount and the side terminal with a small wire.If it is firing the flash is ok. If not there is open connection in the sync jack ,due to repeated inserting of sync chord.The springy part inside is not going back to its normal position. You can fix it your self by opening it(adapter only) .If you are new to this take a photo of the wiring immediately after opening the shoe adapter to see the position if any wire breaks later on. Do not give up .383 is great flash
You can use the Sunpak on a bracket with a "slave trigger" and fire the slave with the Nikon's pop-up flash. I do the same with a SunPak 3600 Auto Zoom. Just remember not to have the red-eye feature operating. Those little slave triggers are only a couple of dollars and I already had few brackets.