H3 Elite washer.... steel tub is wobbling and cutting into the plastic ring liner. If steel tub or has separated from bearing, is this covered under warranty.... after 4 years.... or not. How expensive is this to repair or should we just give it up and replace. Will cost $129 for service call plus parts and labor from Sears.

Your Stainless Steel drum is supported inside of the washer tub by a spider assembly. The assemply, which is made of cast aluminum, has corroded (steel and aluminum and detegent don't mix) and the spider assembly has broken. The drum has likely wobbled enough to wear a hole through the tub. You need to replace the drum and spider assembly, and tub.

Ahh yes, hopefully it's less than a year old. This is likely the main bearing located within the plastic tub. If it has sounded like this for quite some time, you will need a few new parts. The plastic tub (or "tub kit") and the stainless steel drum (which includes the shaft that the bearing rotates on). When did you buy it? If its under a year old, labor will be warrantied with the parts, but the parts themselves should be under warranty as they have a 10 and 25 (or lifetime) year warranty each.
Good luck! We just had this fixed, but now have a new problem. the front button panel will not light up. :(

are you using a gel soap if not that may be your problem powder soaps cannot be used in front load machines it damagege the bearings in the back of the tub

2 tubs used on these-one has screw going around the middle of the tub to split in half/the other is a sealed tank which means you have to replace tub-if you have a filter under the front kick strip then its the sealed tub

look insidethe drum and at the back in the middle of the drum do you see a cover of some sort if so it may be covering screws hold it in.Just a guess not sure without seeing it

The plastic casing (tub shell) around the stainless spin basket should not become worn unless the spin basket is hitting the outer shell. From my past experience, this is usually caused by a cracked or broken spin basket support (spider) arm on the back of the spin basket, or a shot tub bearing (which is also behind the spin basket). The bearing is actually part of the rear tub shell and is molded into the plastic. It cannot be replaced separately and requires the replacmeent of the shell.

If the spin basket supports become broken, the basket becomes off balance and rubs against the outer shell. This results in excessive vibration, which may be the reason why the support shocks were broken. No...this is not normally expected. Unfortnately, this is not a simple or inexpensive repair, either. If you have a service plan, or warranty coverage, I would recommend pursuing that as a repair option. If you wish to repair this yourself, I can post a link for you to follow, but it is expensive. This will usually require the replacement of the following parts:

Spin Basket
Rear Tub Shell (if bearing is bad)
Front Tub Shell (if spin basket caused significant damage)
Support Shocks (I would recommend replacing all 4)

Optional:
Drive Belt Pulley (can become warped or bent)
Drive Belt (if showing signs of wear)
Rubber Door Bellow (if vibration as caused damage to the rubber)

You can go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number to get prices for everything if you like. Everything can be found under the "Tub and Basket Parts" heading, with the exception of the rubber door bellow. It can be located under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading.

I know none of this sounds like positive news, but I do hope you find some of this information helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance.

when spinning , it is noisy. How to overcome it.

I had the same problem and being a procrastinator, I waited until the belt came off before launching a full scale investigation into the knocking noise it had been making for about a year. Here is what I found and below that is my no guarantees fix.....
I removed the nut and pulled the tub pulley off. I noticed the tub shaft has a "shoulder bolt" and the pulley could not be tightened onto the shoulder bolt with enough squeeze to keep the tub pulley from wobbling. Tolerance issue... maybe? I decided to measure the keyed tub shaft with calipers and found the thickest part of the shaft to be 1" ish. The Shaft is part of the tub bearing assembly (from my observation) and the tub shaft is part of the tub bearing which measured 1 1/4" diameter. I found a washer that was 1" inside diameter and 1 1/4" outside diameter and placed it over the tub shaft behind the tub pulley. I tightened the nut snugly and reinstalled the belt. Ahhhhh, quiet operation and no more wobble. I will let you know if it causes another problem but from what I can tell.... replacing the tub pulley with another of the same dimensions will not work.

you don't need a very thick washer(my washer is too thick (.1"ish) so I will replace it soon(yeah right) with 1/32" or maybe 1/16"...I used rubber but I think steel or brass or what ever would probably work too.

Purists will tell you that the lock nut should be replaced, or if you don't use the permanent thread locker you could use loctite.

Hope that helps.