- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The easiest one is that the brush has hair and fluff wrapped around its bearing. This happened to me and was causing a burning rubber smell. Turn it over and remove the base plate. Lift the belt by putting a piece of cord under it and slide the brush out. Remove one end of the brush and slide the spindle out. Clean all the hair out and reassemble.
The internal drive belt is worn, or the nylon bush that it runs on.
The clutch is worn out.
The last two are not as easy to fix as the main drive belt is enclosed in the centre of the clutch. There are videos though that show you the process. Have a read and a watch, but try my first tip first.
Brush bar not rotating - Dyson
www.dyson.co.uk/.../brush-bar-not-rotatingBrush bar not rotating. ... to ensure vacuums containing Dyson Cinetic™ science maintain constant suction. ... tested at the cleaner head.
If the brushes will to spin when you try to turn them by hand remove them from the machine. If the brushes spin ok after removing them the the turbine assembly is seized up and will likely need replaced. If the brushes won't spin when they are removed from machine take the plastic cover off the brushes and clean out the gears.
You will find videos at this site that might be of help to you.
If the brush does not spin you probably should remove it and clean well. Also, on each end of the brush you will find a holder that keeps the brush in the unit. These should turn freely around the brush. If they do not, clean and add a bit of WD40 then manually spin the holders around the brush and reinstall.
Please contact me if these suggestions do not work for you.
Hi there SmartAlec from NelsonVacuums.com.au here. The rattle is the clutch engaging. It can happen for a couple of reasons. The best case for you is if there is something caught in the brush roller that you can simply remove. The next best is that the end caps of the brush are full of junk that you will be able to remove. Its not easy getting the brush out to clean there but it can be done. If the brush spins in your hand easily when the brush is removed then it is the clutch itself. THe main roller often melts which is caused when the tension on the belt gets to high thus creating too much heat. THis can be resolved only with a new clutch. Hope this helps, if you have more questions dont hesitate to reply or if you need parts just visit NelsonVacuums.com.au. Happy Vacuuming :)
When a Dyson DC07 roller brush does not spin, it can only be caused by one of two problems.
The Dyson DC07 uprights use a
clutch mechanism to control the brush spinning when you change the
floor / carpet switch. When the brush doesn't spin, it's caused either by the clutch or roller brush gone bad.
Most other uprights use a belt to spin the roller brush, and if
something is stuck in the roller brush it will cause the belt to break.
Dyson vacuums however will make that awful grinding noise rather then
breaking the belt.
I'll be happy to
walk you through step by step on how to diagnosis this problem and find
out which one of these two parts is bad on your vacuum.
Make sure the vacuum is unplugged. Then turn the vacuum upside down so
that the brushes are facing up. It's easiest if you put the head of the
on top of a bench, or counter top. This is how the vacuum should look:
2. You see on the bottom of the vacuum 3 plastic screws that are
the same color as the vacuum cleaner. If you're vacuum is purple, the
will also be purple. Use a flat head screwdriver, and turn each of the 3
a half of a turn, counter clockwise to loosen then. After each screw has
turned (you don't need to remove the completely, just a half of a turn
simply pull upwards on the bottom plate to remove it.
3. You should now be able to see the roller brush exposed. You'll now
to remove the roller brush. This will take some patience, and some work
to get this brush out of the vacuum. There is a special tool that has
designed to help you get the brush out easier. I would try getting the
first before buying this special tool. The easiest way is to use a flat
screw driver and pry the belt up while pulling up and out on the brush.
some patience and some maneuvering, you'll be able to get the brush out
vacuum. Here's where you should put the flat head screw driver on the
Step 4. Once you get the brush out of the vacuum
cleaner, it's time to test it.
Use your finger tips to hold just the end caps on the very end of the
brush. While holding just the end caps, use your thumbs to try and spin
roller brush. Does the brush spin freely? It should rotate completely
times on each spin. If the brush doesn't spin, or you feel some kind of
resistance to the brush spinning, then this indicates that your roller
gone bad. Here's a picture
of how to test the brush:
the roller brush went bad, then you'll need to purchase a new one.
Here's a direct link to the roller brush your machine uses on our
website GoVacuum.com: http://www.govacuum.com/dysondc07.html
the brush however was able to spin
freely, and it spun multiple times on each spin, this indicates a little more
serious problem of the clutch itself has gone bad. The clutch
is a much longer, more challenging repair to do. There is a very helpful
how to replace the clutch below so that you may follow step by step
on how to change it. It was really helpful for me the first time I did
When the brush stops spinning it can only
be one of these two problems. This clutch mechanism was so
problematic that Dyson removed it on the second series of the DC07
models. I hope that this repair was helpful in diagnosing your
problem. If you have any questions about the diagnosing, or the
clutch change, please feel free to use the Clarification Request form
here on the Fixya repair page. If this was helpful you, please be sure
to rate my repair as helpful by clicking the thumbs up icons.
Unfortunately the answer above is far from helpful. The filter has absolutely nothing to do with your brushes not spinning, and you can really replace the turbine yourself without having to take it into a shop to fix it. Here's a much more helpful diagnosing of how to check the brushes, and fix the turbine if needed.
There can be serveral things that may have gone wrong with your Hoover so that the brushes stop spinning. Unlike the other "expert" above I will walk you through step by step on how to diagnosis this problem, and fix it. Unfortunately there is no belt or band on this model, but instead it's actually a turbine assembly that drives this brush.
Possible Problem #1. Usually the most common problem when the brushes stop spinning is that the brushes have simply gotten clogged with something that is preventing them from spinning. Especially if you have pets in the home, this is a common problem. Here's how you can clean these brushes.
First, turn the machine upside down so that the brushes are facing upwards. Pull down on the upwards on the brushes and they will easily snap right out of the mahcine completely. . Use a pressurized water hose with spray nozzle is ideal) and spray each brush with water to dislodge any pet hair. You should be able to get these brushes spinning when you spray them. Spray each brush until the brushes are spinning pretty fast. Re-insert the brushes into the machine, and test to see if the cleaning has fixed your problem. It's important to make sure that the brush switch on the top of the machine is turned to "Rotating Brush Speed Hi", and that the handle of the machine is reclined down. There is an internal switch inside the machine that turns the brushes off when the machine is in the upright position, so you'll need to step on the handle release pedal to ensure that this switch is engaged. Hopefully the brushes just needed to be cleaned, and they will now work now that you have reinserted them. If this still didn't fix your problem, move on to the next possible problem.
Possible problem #2: If the cleaning didn't fix your problem, remove the brushes from the machine again. Once the brushes have been removed, the handle reclined, and the brush switch turned to fast, turn the machine on. Where the brushes were sitting you'll see a square shaped hole (pictured below) that the brush stem fits into that actually spins the brushes. This part should be spinning while the machine is on. Here's a picture of that part:
If this part is not spinning, then your Turbine Gear Assembly has gone bad and needs to be replaced. If this part spins however, then this indicates that your brush block is gone bad, and needs to be replaced.
Here are links to the exact parts for your model that may need to be replaced:
The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.
You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.
First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).
The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.
Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.
Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of
the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.
Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.
Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.
This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".
There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.
On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.
Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.
The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.
You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.
The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.
At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.
Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.
Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.
Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.
Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.
Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.
Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.
Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.
Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.
The belt just goes from the motor shaft to the brush roll. Do the ends of the brush trun freely, or is one of them froze up, if so replace the brush roll. If it is ok, try to turn the brush roll by hand, maybe the belt got pinched and won't move.
I have the SteamVac Dual and there's a screen on the underside of the unit. It's beneath the brushes and it's red. You have to pull and wiggle it to get it out. With the machine unplugged, lay the unit with the handle on the floor. In the owner's manual ( http://www.hoover.com/pdfs/manuals/F7222900.pdf ) this is shown on page 10 figure 3-2. Clean that screen. If they still won't spin, then take the brushes out. Again, with the unit on the floor, you simply grab the unit firmly and pull towards you. It's much easier to remove than the screen. I took the brush unit outside and blasted it with the house. You'll have to pull out whatever fur balls are clogging it but eventually you'll see that the brushes spin freely with the water squirting on them. Plug the brush unit back in and - in my case - they started spinning.