Maytag mdb8600 I am replacing the latch mechanism and have 3 wiring connectors. Not sure how to connect them back to the new latch. The first one has 4 white wires, the second one has 4 black wires and the other has 2 black and one purple wire and attaches near the top of the door....I was looking for a wiring diagram but hoping you might be able to help

try un pluging washer for 15min and plug back in to see if it resets. if not u may need new latch but first make sure u don't have a loose wire to lock

Just did this myself .Need the right star screw driver to remove 11 screws holding the door inner liner
then you can access the handle latch assembly. You pull off the 2 wire connectors to the switchs that are part of the assembly. Slip connectors onto new assembly.Position the handle part thru the door and re attach inner liner. 2 of the inner liner top screws also hold the assembly in place.Unfortunely , this didn't solve my problem of the dishwasher not turning on.

Hello there:
Here is all of the possible error codes for the door and what they mean and what to look at

DOOR Bake or Broil
· Defective latch switch
· Shorted wire from ERC 10-pin connector, pin 10 to ground
· Door latched Replace latch switch if defective.Replace wire from 10-pin connector if defective DOOR Self-Clean
· Defective latch switch
· Open wire from ERC 10-pin connector, pin 10 to ground
· Door not latched Replace latch switch if defective.Replace wire from 10-pin connector if defective LOCK Not in Self-Clean
· Oven temperature sensor resistance too high Check oven temperature sensor resistance, wire harness and connections, replace defective component

You have to examine and compare the two doors. I am just guessing but I would bet that it is the power mirror that your new door is lacking.

Just follow the wiring into each door.

1. Power locks wires should run to a region near the latch mechanism.
2. Power Windows wires should run to somewhere in the middle of the door.
3. Power mirror should run almost straight up towards the mirror assembly.

If it is the power mirror assembly you should be able to transplant your old one provided that it is not damaged.

If it is power windows, adapting power windows will be much harder as the new door may or may not have the provisions for mounting the regulator, etc.

If it is power locks you may need to transplant the latch and actuator assembly along with its wiring.

Try unplugging the washer for 10 minutes, plugging it back in and test to see if the door will unlock. If it doesn't then you have a bad door lock mechanism or contol board or both. You usually can manually unlock the door by removing the bottom front panel, with the washer unplugged, and reaching up into the door lock mechanism. There is a tab or ring on the bottom that you pull to release the door. Open the door and look for broken plastic pieces on the door strike or in the latch on the mechanism. Usually you won't see anything. If no broken pieces then remove the top panel, washer unplugged, and find the ccu. This is the main control board located in the back center of the machine. Check for loose connections at the ccu and for broken wires. Jiggle and push the wiring connectors into the ccu to make sure they are tight. Plug washer in and test to see if it started working. We have had a lot of repairs with this ccu unit as the relays on the board have a bad weld that gives an intermittent connection, causing this repair. If the washer works by plugging these connectors in tight then put it back together and use it. If it fails again then replace the ccu. In some instances the door lock mechanism can be bad. Unfortunately there is no good test for this. To replace the lock mechanism, you remove the top panel,(washer unplugged). Open the door, remove the three screws that hold the lock mechanism to the cabinet, unplug the 3 to 4 wiring plugs from the lock mechanism and install the new assembly. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

Easy job. You'll need a new "latch assembly". I found one at appliancepartspros.com for $18+ and $7 shipping. Part #W10130695. More $ elsewhere. Procedure: Remove torx head screws on 3 sides of the door, then pull the interior part of the door away from the exterior a few inches at the top of the door. The old latch assembly (and the broken handle, now separate) can now be accessed easily. There are two wire connectors press fit to the latch assembly switches. Use a screwdriver if necessary to pry them off the old assembly, which is probably corroded somewhat. Do this one at a time and replace on the corresponding terminals of the new latch assembly so the wires don't get switched (or else mark them before removal.) Reposition the latch assembly, push the two halves of the door back together and replace the screws. Done. I'll note that the latch is positioned but not secured by two pairs of thin plastic "fingers" molded into the back of the control panel. Three of four fingers had sheared off. I didn't feel like spending $70 to $130 for a new control panel so decided to try doing without. The latch is secured by the two center screws at the top of the door, so as long as those are tight it should be fine.

Hi. check the wiring harness for corroded connectors, and loose connections at the latch and control board. If all is well in these areas, simply replace the door latch assembly.

HI. this will occur when the door latch mechanism cannot be controlled by the main control board. Check the wiring that links the main control board to the actual door latch assembly. if the wiring is connected ok, and there are no apparent contact damage visible, this will confirm that the door latch mechanism is faulty. It should be replaced in this case.

Check the wring at the control board for looseness, as well.

The "Fdl" error occurs when the door latch attempts to lock, but cannot for some reason. Sometimes the washer can experience momentary glitches, which the manufacturer recommends unplugging the washer for at least 30 minutes. Often, this is all that is required to correct the problem and the washer operates normal. You may not be unplugging the washer long enough to reset the computer. Barring the possiblity that you may have purchased a defective part, the remaining recommendations I have are as follows:

1. Make sure the washer is not overloaded to the point where it is putting weight against the door. If you have to force the door closed, this can cause latch errors.

2. Check the latch mechanism on the DOOR and make sure it is in good condition. The door latch may be working just fine, but if the mechanism on the door is damaged, it may not be staying locked.

3. Check all the wiring harnesses from the door latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) to ensure they are all connected properly.

4. Check the connectors at the CCU. Connector 8 (the third connector from the RIGHT), along the front of the CCU is the Main Door Lock. Connector 6 (the 5th connector from the RIGHT), along the front is the door lock solenoids. Make sure these connectors are attached properly and not loose.

5. If the connectors are fitted properly and you still have the error code, you can confirm the CCU by removing connector 6 and taking resistance checks across pins 1 to 3 and 2 to 3. This checks the LOCK and UNLOCK solenoids, respectively. Both readings should be about 60 ohms. If the readings are abnormal, replace the CCU.

6. Connecter 8 is the Main Door Lock. To verify it, you have to start the washer on any cycle. Once the door locks, UNPLUG the washer from the wall. Check for continuity at connector 8 (pins 4 & 5, and 1 & 2) of the CCU. This checks to make sure the main locks are engaged. Both readings should be 0 ohms. Once again, if the readings are abnormal, replace the CCU.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

replace part number 12001656 it is the sensor. Maytag will not help you.