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Kenmore Dryer Model 110

Runs but doesn't get hot the dryer is about 14 years old. Could it be the heating element or is it something else?.

  1. Runs but do not get hot
  2. Have not taken any steps yet

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Using a multi-meter, check to be sure that you have 220 volts at the back of the dryer. If you do, unplug the dryer, take the back off and ohm out the t-stats, thermal cut-outs and element.If you can't pinpoint it to one of these then it will be in the controls or maybe the motor start switch.

ps, The dryer motor will run on 110 volts.

Posted on Dec 13, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110

I found the solution to be very informative and helpful. However, I checked the resistance of the heater element and it is about 10 ohms, and is not open. The TCO resistance is about zero. What about the thermostat? No values were given to check it for, but I did check it's resistance and it was also close to zero. The thermostat sort or "rattles" when I shake it; is that normal?

I pulled the heater element out and looked at it, and can see no visible damage. Also checked the air outlet and hose - no blockage in the hose and the air output at the dryer seems fine.

What else could be causing the dryer to not heat. Have checked at all cycles and temperature settings (low, medium and high)?

Posted on Sep 16, 2008

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29'' Kenmore electric dryer series 110 not heating up


Check the following to address this issue.(Most common issue will be a burned out thermal fuse.)




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
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Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

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It's almost certainly the heating element, unless you have moved to a home without natural gas from one that did. Then of course, it won't have a source of energy. How can you not know if it's gas or electric?????

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If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

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