Question about GE Refrigerators
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR
Kay, these are known for having faulty evaporator fan motors (failed motor bearings). This is what has failed in your fridge. This is a tedious and time consuming repair, you may want to purchase the evap motor and hire someone to install it for you. Just one of the reasons I recommend this is that 50% of the time, the new motor's wiring harness will not match the harness on the fridge and so must be converted to adapt. The evaporator fan motor is the fan inside the freezer, behind the back panels. If you choose to repair it yourself, UNPLUG THE FRIDGE FIRST! Then remove all items from freezer. Remove all shelves and bins. Remove the ice bin. Remove the lower back panel. You should be able to see the motor now, but you can not access it yet. The motor is mounted in a plastic shell/housing, this entire housing must be removed (along with the related wire harness). Install the new motor and rebuild the unit. This doesn't sound like much, but since you've not done one before, figure 2 1/2 to 3 hour job time. (With practice, it still takes us ~50 minutes) Wiring is CRUCIAL! Take note of EVERYTHING and the way things are routed in there. Otherwise, you won't know if you did it right until you have it rebuilt and plugged back in, if something were mis-wired... you'll know it now. Then have to disassemble to locate the problem. The part number you'll need is #WR60X10185, and sells for ~$45.00 at your local appliance parts retailer. If you hire someone to perform the labor, they won't be able to "soak" you on the part price. The good news is that after the repair is complete, your fridge will cool better AND I've never had a callback on these! (Which means that the replacement motors are MUCH better than the original factory installed ones.)
Posted on Aug 11, 2007
The whistling is caused by the air circulating fan located just behind the light. It is easily accessed by removing the light cover and the two small hex screws above the light. To stop the whistling I simply turned the freezer off and pulled the fan cover out slightly to reveal the fan blades. I then pushed the blades down, toward the bottom of the until the blades stopped and i could feel the shaft slightly protruding from the top of the blades. Repositioning the blade has stopped the incessant whistling. Hope this helps!
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
when you open the freezer door do you hear the fan blowing,you could have a bad evap fan motor,also if there's ice on the back wall you have a defrost problem,take off the inside back wall of the freezer where the ice is,you need to shut the control off and melt out all the ice,g.e. has had alot of problems with their computer boards which is a very expensive part number WR49X10152 around 200 bucks,look behind the kick plate on the bottom of the fridge and hopefully the tech sheet will be there,it will tell you how to put the machine into defrost,do this first before you melt anything out or before you touch the control,i think you click the lite switches together 5 times to make it go into defrost,it should tell you on the tech sheet,if ithe heater doesn't come on you need to read out the heater with a meter to see if it's good also read out the defrost thermostat,you have to check the thermostat while it's cold if the t-stat warms up you won't be able to check it, you should change out the t-stat anyway so you can cut the wires going to the t-stat,bypass it by connecting the wire directly to the heater and click the lite switches 5 times and the heater should come on,if it does leave the heater on to help you melt it out.so if the fan is running on the freezer side,click the lite switches 5 times and the fan should shut off and then you'll know it's in defrost,the heater should come on ,if the heater and t-stat read good and it won't go into defrost then it 's the board,also you can take out the board in the back of fridge ,unplug it first and look at the board for burn marks on the back or on the soldered spots,the board tells it when to go into defrost and melt the ice off the coil and like i said g.e.has had a lot of problems with the board,if you need any more help let me know,good luck
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 22, 2011 | Refrigerators
Jul 15, 2010 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator
Jan 21, 2010 | Freezers
Jan 29, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator
Oct 11, 2008 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...
Aug 02, 2008 | GE GSS25LGM Side by Side Refrigerator
Jul 18, 2008 | Hotpoint HTS16HBR Top Freezer Refrigerator
Nov 12, 2007 | GE GSH25JFR Side by Side Refrigerator
Oct 18, 2019 | GE Refrigerators
27 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: