No heat from whirlpool dryer model lg6881xtw1 , replaced burner ignitor, still does not light up , what should i check next

If your dryer is not getting any heat, you need to make sure there is nothing blocking the vent. IE: LINT. Air flow is key to efficient drying. Make sure the dryer settings are appropriate for the clothes you want to dry. The timer selection, fabric selection, and the temperature selection all play important roles in proper dryer operation.
Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
• Heating element (For Electric Models)
• Burner operation (For Gas Models)
• Ignitor (For Gas Models)
• Thermal fuse
I WOULD START WITH:
To protect from over-heating, many dryers use what's commonly called a thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse gets too hot, it will blow, and completely shut down your dryer until it is replaced. This fuse is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. It's about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. When fuses blow, it means they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. A bad thermal fuse needs to be replaced. When replacing this fuse, check the dryer vents to make sure there is no lint buildup which can cause the heat to stay trapped and blow the fuse again.
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas.Check the coil for continuity with a Volt Ohm Meter. If there's no continuity, it means that the element is bad and you need to replace it.
If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.

If no heat at all i suspect this part HERE. This is the fuse. It kills power to the gas assembly if junk gets into the filter housing and cause an overheat condition. On electric models this same fuse kills the whole dryer. On gas models it just kills the gas. If that is good the next thing to check is the flame detection sensor mounted out side of the burner chamber. It's job is to power up the ignitor. If it is open no power can get to the ignitor. If it is good then the next thing to check is the ignitor. If the ignitor is good AND you are getting power from that control klixon you mentioned with the 4 wires on it AND you can get a little heat at first but then none at all them coils need to be replaced. Here is my home video:



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The problem is the dryer coils. They tend to fail as they heat up. They are inexpensive and easy to replace. Here is a video that should help http://appliancehelponline.com/gdryertroublevideo.html

The gas dryer has a spark ignitor that starts the burner to heat up. Upon switching on the dryer you should hear the ignitor clicking to light the burner. If you do not hear the clicking noise the ignitor needs to ne replaced

Check to make sure the burner ignitor is not burned out. Check all the other parts you mentioned........ pull one wire off each part(one at a time) and check with with with an OHM meter.... should all be in the closed position.

If the ignitor glows but does not light the burner you need to replace the gas valve coils.
If there is no glow you must check all the thermostat safeties and thermal cutout fuses for continuity with a ohm meter. No continuity is a bad component. Remove at least one wire from each component before testing.
Unplug the dryer before any test.

If your dryer heats when you first turn it on and after a few minutes it does'nt. check the ignitor to see if it is glowing. It should glow bright then you will hear a click and the burner will light. If the ignitor glows bright but you hear a click but no flame and if you watch this for several minutes and this process continues of glow then glow goes out no flame, then you have a bad burner coil. There are 2 black solenoids sitting on top of gas valve. One of them is shorting out after it warms up. Replace both solenoids. You can usually get them as a kit from parts store.

Remove the bottom panel and start dryer . If you see the red glow , then ignitor is ok . Disconnect the plug (2 or 3 wires ) going to the burner and check for 120 volts . If no red glow , replace the ignitor pt # 279311 . If not 120 volts , then , normally , thermal fuse is bad (white piece with 2 small terminals on blower box ) is bad .

there is a big black box on top of the burner check this if good check theremal fuse this will be on the heat tube most likly in the back it is small and white

The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle) thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is energized the flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the ignitor and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot ignitor and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas valve assembly.
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If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61