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Most toilet tank troubles can be traced to a faulty flush valve. You have three choices in correcting this common problem: (1) repair the old flush valve; (2) replace the flush ball with a more modern flapper or install a glued-in replacement flapper; (3) or install a new flush valve.
These repairs require a varying amount of work. The more simple adjustments were discussed previously.
Examine the old flush ball or flapper. If it is aged or encrusted with deposits, replace it with a new one. Scale deposits on the seat can be removed with steel wool or with No. 500 wet-or-dry abrasive paper. But if the valve still leaks, it must be replaced.
You can install a new guide arm, if necessary. To remove the lift wire from a flush ball, turn it counterclockwise with pliers. If you are replacing all parts, simply cut off the old lift wire.
Flapper. To replace a flapper, disconnect the lift hardware from the trip arm and slide the flapper up and off the overflow pipe. Install the new unit, reversing directions, and connect the lift hardware back to the trip arm. Any excess lift chain can be cut off or left dangling, if it doesn't interfere with toilet operation.
A loose trip handle can be fixed by tightening. The nut has left-hand threads, and must be turned counterclockwise to tighten (looking from inside the tank). Or, you can install a replacement trip handle.
Glue-in repair kit. Many replacement flush valves simply glue in place on top of the old valve seat. While several brands are available, not every type of flush can be replaced by these devices.
On single-piece toilet tanks–with a flush valve held in place with flanges that fit inside the opening–the flapper-ball may bind and prevent a leak-proof seal. On more common two-piece toilets, this problem does not occur.
Using a glue-in repair kit is quick and easy, but you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. To be sure you purchase the right kind of repair kit, take a rough drawing of the bottom of your toilet tank and flush valve to your hardware or home center store.
If the flapper won't stay up, you may be lifting it too high - you want to retain a little air inside it when it's lifted. Try adjusting it to a lower lift height.
Thus if the tank is continuing to drain down through the bowl into the sewer line, the rubber flapper is not seating properly with the flush. These become worn and torn and are easily replaced. Or, even with a new one installed, sometimes they are not adjusted properly to create the appropriate balance between play and pull. Play being the upward connection to the flush handle and pull being the downward draw with the gravity flow of the water. Too much play it won't actually flush or lift properly. Too much pull it does not seat tightly or won't lift up long enough to allow enough water to flow through to flush the toilet...as engineered by the geniuses who designed the toilet. A simple adjustment of the chain links attaching the flapper to the flush handle and perhaps a side to side turn of the cuff so the flapper is aligned to seat properly as it drops should be sufficient. And test, test, test, test, and test again until you're absolutely sure you've got it adjusted correctly. One or two flushes is not sufficient!
Fill the breather hole (1/8" hole) inside the flapper.This is designed to let air out so the flapper will sink. Now it floats longer letting in more water. 25%percent more in my case.
Which style of flush valve do you have? If it is the dual-flush option (solids/liquids) I do not know how to adjust those. If you have a traditional style, then the flapper or ball is closing too soon. You need to adjust the guide arm (flush ball) higher or shorten the chain between the flapper and the handle. Adjust this carefully or you will have it fail to seat and the toilet will constantly run.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells (who needed to replace the fill valve and the flapper at her home earlier this week)
You have two issues inside of the toilet tank. The holding down the button is caused by your chain not being tight enough from the handle to the flapper. Take the slack out of that and replace the flapper. The second is that you need to replace the fill valve. This is what is making the noise when the tank is being refilled, and will have to be adjusted after it is installed.
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