Question about Canon EOS Digital Rebel XS / 1000D IS Digital Camera

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Built-in flash not flashing as expected

It sometimes gives off the pre-flash and when it's time to shoot.. "click" no flash and very dark image. IF you're lucky, it may give of a faint flash but not as bright as expected. SOMETIMES, it gives off a bright enough flash but the image is still dark or black. Got me stumped!!!

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  • 161 Answers

I'm not sure if the problem is the flash or settings on your EOS, from what your saying.

Lets try to change the settings first.
Try to change the settings of your camera, look in your manual. What your looking for is ISO, this is the exposure. By taking practice shots and changing ISO you will find a setting that will match your preference.

Also, it seems like your flash is faulty. Contact Canon to fix it for you.

If you have the money, try to fix your flash. Otherwise set your ISO to auto or change it every time you take a picture outside or inside.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

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I have a new 580EXII mounted to my Canon 7D. I do not seem to getting the "double flash" (not sure what the technical term is) that I expect and pictures are coming out dark. I'm think...


Holly, I believe you are referring to the pre flash for the ETTL function. both flashes happen so so fast that it looks like one flash. If your pictures seem dark make sure your flash is set to ETTL (press the MODE button unlit ETTL is displayed) this way the flash output is automatic. If it is still too dark you can change the flash output by adjusting the FEL (flash exposure composition) by pressing the button in the center of the dial until +/- is displayed the turn the wheel to select a + exposure (you can adjust this in 1/3 stop increments) then press the center button again. This can be found on pg 14 of the manual
Hope this helps.

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The Intelli-Check™ Filter Monitors will indicate replacement of the pre-filter and the

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When the unit is turned on, quickly press the appropriate filter monitor button. The

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1 flash = from new, up to 1/3 expected life used up

2 flashes = between 1/3 and 2/3 expected life used up

3 flashes = between 2/3 and all of expected life used up

Remains on = time to check/replace pre-filter

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1 flash = from new, up to 1/4 expected life used up

2 flashes = between 1/4 and 1/2 expected life used up

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1 Answer

Ttl auto does not work


Digital Camera Fully Compatible, Newly Developed S-TTL System "S-TTL" enables TTL auto shooting by an external strobe for a digital SLR camera as well as for a point & shoot digital camera.
INON S-TTL auto strobe supports any manufactures' model providing highly accurate exposure control.
Film camera era without strobe selection problem TTL stands for "Through The Lens" and TTL auto strobe system controls flash amount to provide correct exposure based on calculation by camera's internal sensor metering reflecting strobe light from a subject through the lens. This TTL system meters actual light amount reflecting from a subject providing accurate exposure.
When we start with the history of underwater TTL auto strobe, underwater camera?"NIKONOS V" released in 1984 was the first to provide automatic TTL flash control for underwater strobe SB-102, SB-103 succeeded by NIKONOS V compatible underwater strobes form other manufactures. The 5 pin electrical sync connector for NIKONOS V is most popular and widely adopted to connect an underwater strobe and underwater film camera (underwater camera/housing).
A film SLR camera has flexibility to select an underwater strobe. As far as housing has NIKONOS type electrical sync connector and properly wired, automatic TTL flash control is usable with any TTL auto strobe like Nikon SB-105, INON Z-220, Z-22 connected via electrical sync cable.
NIKONOS type 5 pin electrical sync connector and NIKONOS V with INON Z-22 strobe
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Film camera compatible strobe is not usable for a digital camera!? Underwater TTL strobe circumstances have been drastically altered with the spread of digital camera among divers. Some underwater housing for digital SLR camera has NIKONOS type electrical 5 pin sync connector as same as film camera housing. Since the housing has same NIKONOS type sync connector, existing film camera compatible underwater strobe has been considered compatible with a digital SLR camera via 5 pin sync cable but happened to experience error message on the digital camera or blackout on an image even the strobe worked. Why this happened?
This is because automatic TTL strobe system difference between a film camera and a digital camera.

The film TTL auto system makes single flash while digital TTL auto system employs pre-flash type making two to three flashes. Film TTL auto strobe system starts firing at the same time the shutter opens and reflecting strobe light from a subject is recived at a film. The reflecting light on the film is metered by the sensor to determine when to cease firing for correct exposure. This process takes only about 1/1000 second.
In contrast, digital TTL auto strobe system can not calculate adequate exposure based on reflecting light from a subject since image sensor (CCD/CMOS) reflectivity is comparably low comparing to a film. So digital TTL strobe system gives preliminary flash for very short period of time (pre-flash) just before the shutter opens metering reflecting light from a subject by the sensor to calculate necessary amount of light for correct exposure and starts emitting main flash at the same time the shutter opens. Canon E-TTL and Nikon i-TTL employs this system.

When we connect conventional film camera compatible TTL strobe to pre-flash type digital SLR via sync cable, the strobe makes full dump by pre-flash signal then the shutter opens before the strobe has been fully charged resulting in quite under exposed image only with ambient light. Even two time flash compatible strobe like INON Z-220 strobe, does not fully support a digital TTL and force to use Manual flash mode.





Film SLR:
A strobe starts firing at the same time the shutter opens and quenches firing when correct exposure has been obtained.
A film compatible TTL strobe connected to a pre-flash type digital SLR via electrical cable flashes does not support TTL auto exposure resulting in synchronization only with first pre-flash or totally uncontrollable.
white1px.jpg
The birth of digital fully compatible S-TTL S-TTL auto compatible INON D-2000 strobe and Z-240 strobe works in TTL auto mode by simply setting their main dial to S-TTL position. A film camera seems to depend more on photographer's skill, experience and feel since the camera does not allow checking images on site. A digital camera allows us to check images right after shooting and enable to try to shoot again as much as we like. And high capacity memory card further allows to shoot hundreds of images. The digital camera makes entry level of underwater photography getting down and nowadays more people buy a digital SLR camera and underwater housing even they have just started underwater photography. However underwater photography gets more difficult because underwater strobe does not work in TTL auto.
INON is among the first to support digital TTL auto system with "S-TTL" auto mode equipped D-2000 strobe and Z-240 strobe.
The proper name of S-TTL is "Optical Synch TTL". S-TTL enables to perform in TTL auto exposure as same as genuine TTL strobe from camera manufacture, based on camera's built-in flash light to use as a signal to be transmitted to a strobe. S-TTL uses digital camera's built-in flash light not as a light source but as like a controller to trigger S-TTL strobe.
The built-in flash of a digital camera makes weak flash (pre-flash) before main-flash to calculate exposure. This pre-flash is transmitted to S-TTL strobe to control the strobe to make pre-flash to a subject. The reflecting light from the subject goes through the camera's master lens to an image sensor then a processor calculates main flash light amount for correct exposure.?Finally the built-in flash makes main-flash which is transmitted to the S-TTL strobe to cause main-flash of the S-TTL strobe.


Digital camera's built-in flash lights are transmitted via an optical fiber to the
S-TTL strobe to make pre-flash and main-flash instead of the built-in flash.
white1px.jpg

Apr 30, 2010 | Olympus FL-20 TTL Flash

1 Answer

Canon 400D, Auto setting, images too dark


Automatic settings are not useful in all conditions. The built in flash is not good over 20 ft. Under low light conditions, an external flash is better option, but it costs additional too. Remember that shooting under low light conditions is always a difficult task. By the way, I don't know about such common problem in Canon XTi

Jul 15, 2009 | Canon EOS 400D / Rebel XTi Digital Camera

1 Answer

Black photos at nite with flash


It's very difficult to pinpoint an issue with what you've given here. Particularly since flash photography at night can be hit or miss anyway.

I actually wrote a review for Popular Photography & Imaging on your camera... You can read it here:

http://www.popphoto.com/Reviews/Cameras/Camera-Review-Sony-Cyber-shot-DSC-T10

And while I really LIKE your camera, it does have its' limitations, particularly with the flash at night. It's small and not very powerful in comparison to a full-size/feature flash unit. Because of this, here's a few things you should keep in mind when you shoot at night with a flash:

Allow the flash enough time to "recycle". In other words, when the flash fires, it needs to replenish power to make another full-power flash exposure. If you're shooting images very quickly, you may not be at full power for each frame. The T10 has a flash-ready indicator, so make sure it's activated before you shoot your images.

Stay close- There's a thing in photography called the "Law of Inverse Square". Basically, this means that when you double your flash-to-subject distance, your light intensity is cut down to ONE QUARTER of your previous distance. The T10 has a very small flash, so this becomes critical for good images.

Be reasonable in your expectations. The T10- or any other camera-mounted flash for that matter, won't light an entire stadium or something that's more than 10 feet with your flash or 50 feet with a full-power/size flash.

If you're following these guidelines, and you're still having issues with dark images, try upping your ISO to a higher setting to add some sensitivity to the sensor. Doubling your ISO cuts the light required to make a good exposure in half. If you've done this and the images are still black, you may want to take the camera to a repair shop for evaluation.

I shot several photos that should be included with the story on POP's web site, so you can see that the camera IS capible of shooting some nice flash image, but again, were done with an understanding of the camera's limitations.

Hope this helps you out!

Jul 14, 2009 | Sony Cyber-shot DSC-T10 Digital Camera

2 Answers

Indoor picture too dark with flash


Hey Jewdeit,
The built in flash on the K100D has guide # of 52 at iso 200 which does fine for close-up photography and as fill flash outdoors, but is not a powerful enough flash for shooting far away subjects indoors. What you probably should do is purchase an external shoe mounted flash such as the AF540FGZ which has a much higher guide number of 148 at iso 100. When shooting with flash if you are using aperture priority or full manual you can also try opening the aperture to let in more light that the flash put out, but doing this might over expose anything in the foreground.

Sincerely,
Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.

May 06, 2008 | Pentax K100D Digital Camera

1 Answer

SB600 Works Erratically...


If red light on flash is blinking, flash is charging. In shooting rapidly, sometimes flash will go off even though it isnt fully charged. This can give dark shots. Flash eats batteries like crazy, best to always use fresh batteries for each shoot.

Apr 14, 2008 | Nikon Speedlight SB-600 TTL Flash

1 Answer

CANON Rebel RTI Outdoor pictures are dark


learning to use light metering correctly can have its challenge.
the manual will guide you on how to set up to read light from the subject. spot metering a dark area will cause general overexposure, or a washed out look. spot metering a bright area will cause a dark image. if you are on spot meter and shoot two people standing together against a bright lit background, your meter will see between them if they are centered, and read all that bright background, setting the camera to a less sensitive combination of aperture / shutter speed, resulting in a dark image. use field averaging meter setting and be sure you are metering the subject and not the background. try shooting a wall that is fairly clear of other colors and uniform it light hitting it, you should have a correctly exposed image. since it works in other modes (at least 1, anyway) then it is unlikely you have an exposure compensation issue. that is the only other non defect issue that would cause your problem.
once you confirm that you have these settings correct and still get a dark image, its time to have it serviced.
good luck
mark

Sep 01, 2007 | Canon EOS 400D / Rebel XTi Digital Camera...

1 Answer

Dark image....even using flash.


The problem here is likely the auto setting. Put it to sunny, clear day instead of indoor picture and you should be ok. Also, point it at neutral colored objects when you take the picture and allow it time to adjust by holding the button in partway before depressing it fully.

Jul 26, 2007 | Canon PowerShot A630 Digital Camera

1 Answer

Why do some images recorded with flash come out looking a little dark?


Recording a subject that is outside the flash range can cause the subject to appear dark in the resulting image, because not enough of the flash reaches the subject. When this happens, you can use flash assist to correct the brightness of the recorded subject, so it appears as if the flash illumination was sufficient. Note, however, that recording certain types of subjects may not produce the results you expect, even if you use flash assist.

Aug 29, 2005 | Casio Exilim EX-P700 Digital Camera

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