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Re: chainsaw 34cc 350mm bar polun, tha adjusting
Did the cover crack? The adjusting screw is just a common metric screw; the nut has a special tang that engages one of the 2 large holes at the drive end of the bar. When reinstalling the bar and chain, the adjustment screw must be backed off a few turns so the the tang will readily drop into it's hole in the bar. Install the cover (new if old one cracked) and turn the nut(s) down finger tight. Turn the adjuster CW to tighten the chain so that the chain doesn't droop from the bar, but turns freely by hand. Tighten the cover nut(s) and recheck the chain again.
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Tighten the adjusting screw with the two nuts loose but snugon the middle of the chain on the top of the bar. Tighten the chain screw until the chain is loose enough to raise the chain up about 1/2 inch then tighten the mounting nuts tight. Then see if it is ok.
The chain adjuter is in the side cover ( chainbrake ) so you need to make sure the adjuster pawl in the brake ligns up with the hole in the guide bar, if not the chain will not tighten, and you will damage the cover if you tighten the bar nuts and the pawl is not in the bar hole.
Make sure the brake is de activated by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle, you shpuld hear an audible click when it locks, remove the nuts and side cover, the chain adjuster will either be in the crankcase or the side cover, screw the adjuster right back, remove the old chain, now loop the new chain over the sprocket and lay it into the guide bar with the cutters on the top of the bar facing away from the saw, re fit the side cover making sure the adjuster pawl locates into the adjuster hole in the bar, re fit the bar nuts finger tight, screw the adjuster up so as the chain sits snuggley all around the guide bar, pull the chain around manually with a gloved hand, this will make sure it is properly located in the sprocket and is free in the bar, lift the bar nose and fully tighten the bar nuts
With a gloved hand can you manually pull the chain around the bar? if not the chainbrake is still engaged, pull the hand guard fully back to the top handle until you hear the click from the brake mechanism, if the chain does pull around manually then there is a problem with either the cluch or the sprocket, remove the side cover, check the clutch for damage, remove the drive sprocket and check the drive teath are not badly worn allowing the chain to slip within it, replace parts as required.
Make sure the chain brake is released. Remove the two cover bolts completely and back off the chain adjustment screw several turns. All of this should release the cover. Make sure the chain teeth cut toward you on the bottom run. When adjusting the chain, leave the cover screws finger tight, and turn the adjusting screw CW to bring the chain up to the lower bar run, but not so tight that the chain cannot be moved by hand. Tighten the cover screws and recheck chain tension. When running, hold the bar tip near some cardboard while running at speed--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the board. Hope this helps!
Make sure the chain brake is released and that the chain adjustment screw is backed out a few turns. Make sure that the adjustment tang drops into one of the large holes and attempt to install the cover. If the chain brake is contained in the cover (Husky brand and others), the brake must be released with a wide screwdriver. Hope this helps!
This will be the basic instruction for most common
saws. Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front
hand guard towards the front handle if the saw is equipped with a chain brake
on the handle. Loosen the bar nuts on the clutch cover. Loosen tension screw or
other adjuster (thumbscrew) to allow the bar to be moved toward the engine.
Some saws have this tension adjustment built into the bar. This will provide
enough slack in the chain to able to reinstall it. It may be necessary to
remove the side cover to gain access to the clutch/gear assembly on the side of
the engine if the chain also jumped the gear here. Remove the cover, inspect
for any debris or other obstructions in this area. If none, replace the chain
back over the drive gear and in the bar groove all the way around the bar. It
may be necessary to turn the bar adjuster screw more to provide enough slack in
the chain to do this. Once the chain is in place reinstall the cover and bar
lock nuts. Snug up the nuts but do not tighten these. Turn the bar/chain
adjuster screw to tighten the chain on the bar (take up slack). I usually
tighten to a point where there is no slack between the chain and the bottom of
the bar and I can still turn the chain easily around the bar by hand. With
experience you will get the feel for this chain tension. Once the chain is
properly tensioned, tighten the bar lock bolts/ nuts on the side cover.
Some Poulan Pros have an adjuster screw on the front of the engine case right beside the bar, some have a tool less adjuster on the clutch cover, and some have a slot in the bar for adjusting the chain tension.
1. The kickback brake, if equipped, was triggered to stop the chain. 2. The chain is jammed with saw dust/debris (it doesn't take much) 3. the bar sprocket is damaged. 4. The chain guide teeth are damaged and not sliding through the bar guide groove smoothly 5. The chain is adjusted too tightly. 6. You are out of bar oil and friction has stopped it/damaged the bar and/or chain 7. The motor sprocket clutch is damaged.
remove the nuts that hold the bar & the screws that hold the cover on.w/ brake off,remove cover.inside cover you will find 'band' brake that surrounds sprocket assembly.if adjustment is provided,it will be at one end of the band.it's more likely to be an accumulation of sawdust interfering w/brake.also clean sawdust from chain oiler holes in bar,and around sprocket while you've got it apart.slacken chain adjuster screw to aid re-assembly,re-adjust chain