Question about Amana DRT1802B Top Freezer Refrigerator
SOURCE: amana sxd524ve
why did you turn off in the first place??? to defrost ice off back wall??? if so sounds like you ahce a bad defrost thermostat. (evaporator fan get power from runnig through thermo. and when the thermo goes bad the unit stops cooling correctly because of the massive amount of ice that buildsaround the coil
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
Based on your description, the defrost limit has failed and should be replaced. The job takes about 30 minutes. The part you'll need is a WR50X55. You can find it online by plugging that number into a search engine, or pick one up locally at an appliance parts retailer.
UNPLUG THE FRIDGE BEFORE CONTINUING!!!
Clean out all the stuff in the freezer and remove the shelves. Then remove the panel in the back of the freezer section. You'll see the defrost limit clipped to the evaporator coils at the top right. Remember which tube it's clipped to, then take it off the tube.
Now clip the wires close to the limit and remove the limit. Strip those 2 wires back about 3/8" and connect them to the new limit one wire at a time. Cap these wires off with wire nuts. All you gotta do now is use one of the clips in the kit (I use the "U" shaped one, NOT the "W" shaped one) and clip it to the tube you removed the old one from. Rebuild everything and plug the fridge back in. That's it!
NOTE---> The fan inside the freezer will NOT come on immediately. The derfrost limit you just installed must get below 55 degrees first, then it'll turn the fan on. OK?
If there's anything else I can help you with, please write back. If not, and this has fixed your problem, please rate me.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
The clicking noise you hear is a relay trying to start your compressor but your compressor does not want to obey! Compressor most likely is bad and needs to be replaced or all your refrigerant gas has leaked out and would need to be repaired and system re-charger with refrigerant gas. Not a cheap venture either way. Might want to consider getting a new one.
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
Hello, Unfortunately the compressor likely is seized now. There are a couple of reasons that the original start device failed, 1) faulty connection. 2) poor quality part. 3) compressor was running non-stop due to other deficiencies in the unit or 4) the compressor was failing to begin with. The compressor may indeed check out ok as far as electrically ( windings ) but the mechanical component ( rotor ) has locked/seized up. You can determine whether it is the windings by checking the ohm value between common to start, common to run and run to start ( c-s, c-r, r-s ) and look for values similar to 6ohms, 3ohms, & 9ohms. Then check the start and run & common windings against the compressor casing to see if windings are shorted. In order to double check the mechanical component you'd need another hard start, ( or a test cord direct to 120vac, but that should only be done by an experienced tech ). nothing else will start it at this point obviously or you wouldn't be using a hard start already. The other unfortunate issue is this, many of these compressor's have a 10yr. parts only warranty but that was voided as soon as the 3in1 hard start was installed. In the end I'm likely not telling you anything you didn't already suspect or know in fact, but it is likely the compressor. I sympathsize, seized compressors **** ! Hope this answers your question and moves you forward. good luck macmarkus :)
Posted on May 08, 2010
I have this problem as well, only nobody is leaving anything open. The defroster is defective of these things and the duct between the fridge and freezer gets frozen over and the cold air can't get in the fridge, so the freezer keeps working until it's blue in the face.
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
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