Question about Maytag Washing Machines
Washer fills, drains fine but stops before entering agitation or spin. Control board no burns, wax motor switch extends and is good, spin enable switch good. Passed motor test and tumbles at 50Hz in service mode as it should. What else would prevent tumble and spin? if voltage to motor bad transmission or motor
Remove agitator and replace plastic piece with screws to bottom probably stripped gears only about 14 dollars on amazon
Posted on Oct 10, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: maytag neptune MAH4000AWQ
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean(ref manual). There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.
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Posted on Jun 03, 2008
maytag neptune washers do have a motor problem and they have a kit to replace the motor and motor controller.
when the motor fails, it wont wash or spin. most units have a 5 year parts warranty and should be replaced with a free part, but you will have to pay an authorized servicer to do this.
if it is over 5 years then i would call maytag and see if they will help you with an authorization for repair.
most of the time they will provide the part for free. just call the 800 # and ask for help. they wont send you the part but might give you some help with the parts.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
I had the same problem with my Atlantis a couple of months ago. It turned out to be the bearing for the tub drive pulley. When you look under the washer there are three pulleys. The one for the motor is ont he left, the drain pulley on the right and the big one in the middle for the tub. What I found is that when the bearing went bad, the tub would fill and turn for washing, but it would not turn at all for spinning. I could turn the pulley by hand but the tub refused to budge. I removed the main pulley and could see that the bearing had exploded. You can't buy just the bearing but the whole pulley kit is like $35 so I got off easy. I put the machine back together (which is tricky) but it works fine now. The pulley kit comes with complete instructions but it's really straightforward. The tricky part is that you have to pull down on the end of the drive shaft in order to get the retainer ring onto the pulley. That can be difficult if you don't have a lot of room to work or have a partner to assist. You can replace the whole thing or just the bearing and save the pulley for a rainy day if you want. I opted for the whole replacement. But I saved the old. cause ya neva know!
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;
The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.
Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.
I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079
I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at [email protected]. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
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