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Dryer is not heating, only blowing cool air

Model DVL223EA0WW
dryer is not heating, drum spins,only blowing cool air
set dryer to more dry, timer arrow does not move as time passes

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Its best to take it to an appliance repair man. This is usually an electrical problem related the the board or the relays behind the control panel. Beware though, sometimes its cheaper to buy a new one than fix the old. Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Roper dryer works on high heat only


DID U CHECK THE HI LIMIT AND THE CYCLING THERMOSTAT? AS WELL AS THE MOISTER SENSOR?

Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.

1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.

2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.

Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while






Mar 28, 2016 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer heats-up on air fluff setting


This sounds like a grounded heater wire. If you turn the timer on and open your door, is the heater element on and making heat? This should not be the case if the drum is not turning. If heat is on then you will need to replace the heating element. Good Luck!

Oct 11, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer 110.86864100 - Where is the moisture sensor?


Ain't no moisture sensor. This is is not an electronic sensing machine. It uses another method to determine dryness. An orange wire connects to the base of the heating element. The timer motor is driven by power from it in auto dry. The timer motor is VERY slow. Slower than most dryer timer motors.As the clothes get dryer the heat is not needed so the element is turned off by the control thermostat which is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower housing. This allows for the turtle like motor on the timer to advance. Once the clothes get to the point of dryness the heater stays off way longer and the timer motor advances on over to the cool down and carry on over to the end of cycle. So the clothes won't always be dry due to factors like lint buildup in the blower housing, venting to outside and so forth. having said that my mom bought a brand new Kenmore dryer and I set it on 55 minutes timed drying. At the end of that them clothes is still damp. I then set it to auto dry high heat and that usually gets em dry. I think the main probo with this dryer is the thermostat ain't set as high as older models to keep the heat at a moderate temp so that the limits won't blow on models in apts and such. Just a theory.

Sep 16, 2012 | Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whorlpool dryer timer


I worked ona wp electric dryer not long ago with a heat problem.
Take a look:

DRYER NO HEAT

Jul 08, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My kenmore electric dryer doesn't heat. Blows cool air


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

Feb 17, 2010 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My dry blow out cool air model ler4600pq


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE
Remove and clean the venting to outside then get the rear cover off and check for continuity to the heater element and safetys.

Jan 30, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer has heat in back but cloths won't dry.


Howdy: Some models have a little fan that blows the hot air into the drum. I do not know what model you have but I would start there. Sorry - Good luck - Doug

Dec 09, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

TEDX640PQ1 dryer, timer no longer times and heat does not come on. dryer will spin and blow cool air forever


HI. The timer is the principal initiator off all functions. If the timer module dose not time, or rotate properly, this will signal that the timer mechanism has failed. The timer will need to be replaced in this case. The motor is damaged.

Once the timer is replaced, the heat will return as well.

Oct 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not heating properly..taking longer to dry clothes


If there's heat inside the drum the heater coils should be ok, however your model has 2. With the door open and the machine running, look inside at the back of the drum and look for 2 glowing element coils. If one is not working you will not have enough heat.
Check the exhaust vent, make sure it's not kinked or squished behind the machine and that the outside vent is not clogged with lint. You should feel air blowing freely to the outside.
If there is no heat, first check for 240V at the outlet. If you have 240V, it could be the element, the hi-limit thermostat, the thermal cut-off, the timer, the motor or a wiring issue (loose or shorted).
Good luck!.

Mar 06, 2009 | GE Dryers

2 Answers

Roper Electric Dryer Heats but drum won't spin


Yank the filter out the top. Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing. Use a putty knife to pop the top and then remove the screws holding the front on. NOTE: raise up on the front panel slightly so you won't damage the bottom clips. Get the front out yer way and remove the drum. Clean out the dryer and oil the rollers and idler. Use this handy ROUTING GUIDE to see how to put the belt back.

Jan 20, 2009 | Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer

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