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Put new thermol cutoff on dryer started to heat know will not heat.did notice that top of dryer got really hot before it quit working

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Hi, The top of the dryer usually gets to hot when there is an airflow issue. Check the 4" vent to the outside and make sure it is clear of any lint or bends. If the vent appears open, check the duct work inside the dryer. Airflow issues cuase the thermal cutoff to go bad. The less common problem is the heating element shorting out agianst the housing it is in. Very unlikely but possible.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

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3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

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These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

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1 Answer

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This is a common problem with ALL electric dryers. What is most likely the problem is either a) your heating element has broken or b) your high limit cutoff has blown (this is simply a fuse that blows when it gets to hot). These problems almost 100% are cause from a vent that is clogged.

To know if your vent is clogged you go outside where the dryer vent exits the house. The air flow should be quite good, and you should be able to hear it from several feet away. If you feel no air, you have a clog. The clog MUST be fixed or you will have the same problem again.

To figure out what has gone wrong with the dryer we have to access the back of the machine. UNPLUG the dryer from the wall. Pull the dryer away and get behind. Remove the back panel (8 1/4 inch screws). The heating element is at the bottom right. There are two 1/4 inch screws holding it in. There will also be 2-3 wires on the left hand side. Note where these were plugged in, and then disconnect them.

Now, with the heating element in your hands you can see the coils. These glow red when the dryer works and get extremely hot. I pinch two coils at a time and look for a break. If you can visually see a coil broken that is your problem. If you have a multimeter you can check the continuity of the heater by touching your leads to the terminals the red wires you disconnected were plugged into. If the heater is fine, reconnect it.

Above the heater is the high limit cutoff. It has two wires going to it. The only way to know if it is good is to check it with a multimeter. If you know someone that can check the continuity, do it. These are 90% - 95% of the problem. But keep in mind, they are not the source of the problem. The heating element breaks for a reason, and the high limit cutoff blows for a reason. Check your vent!

Now, your model number is missing a character in between the 4 and the Q. I will need this to be complete and I can tell you the part numbers or the heating element and cutoff switch and an average price :)

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1 Answer

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If the dryer is electric, keep reading.

This is a common problem with ALL electric dryers. What is most likely the problem is either a) your heating element has broken or b) your high limit cutoff has blown (this is simply a fuse that blows when it gets to hot). These problems almost 100% are cause from a vent that is clogged.

To know if your vent is clogged you go outside where the dryer vent exits the house. The air flow should be quite good, and you should be able to hear it from several feet away. If you feel no air, you have a clog. The clog MUST be fixed or you will have the same problem again.

To figure out what has gone wrong with the dryer we have to access the back of the machine. UNPLUG the dryer from the wall. Pull the dryer away and get behind. Remove the back panel (8 1/4 inch screws). The heating element is at the bottom right. There are two 1/4 inch screws holding it in. There will also be 2-3 wires on the left hand side. Note where these were plugged in, and then disconnect them.

Now, with the heating element in your hands you can see the coils. These glow red when the dryer works and get extremely hot. I pinch two coils at a time and look for a break. If you can visually see a coil broken that is your problem. If you have a multimeter you can check the continuity of the heater by touching your leads to the terminals the red wires you disconnected were plugged into. If the heater is fine, reconnect it.

Above the heater is the high limit cutoff. It has two wires going to it. The only way to know if it is good is to check it with a multimeter. If you know someone that can check the continuity, do it. These are 90% - 95% of the problem. But keep in mind, they are not the source of the problem. The heating element breaks for a reason, and the high limit cutoff blows for a reason. Check your vent!

Now, your model number is missing a character in between the 4 and the Q. I will need this to be complete and I can tell you the part numbers or the heating element and cutoff switch and an average price :)

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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