Mine won't turn with or without the engine driving it. If I pop the snap clip off and slide one of the gear sets out of the equation , all the shafts, wheels and bearings seem to be turning fine. The teeth on the gears look fine and are not worn at all but when I slide it back in to connect both the drive shaft and the wheel axle shaft, nothing will turn at all. I can't see what is wrong.
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(Simple answer)Hydrostatic drive machines have a setting that allows you to push them. machine won`t move if this is engaged.
Also If park brake is on. Otherwise check drive belt has not snapped is loose or broken. Jack machine up and see if wheels will drive without weight of machine.
Okay first your other responses are completly illiterate ok if the drive shaft is spinning that means the motors running for all of you other answerers that means gas is going through the carb into the engine and it's working perfectly fine. Now to answer your question if the rear wheels aren't spinning you probably have the same problem I'm having with mine at the moment you've drivien it too hard and the gears on the bottom end of your drive shaft aren't warn but inside the bell housing of your rear end where the drive ahft enters the gears are so worn you can't feel them in that case you would disconnect all of your sub frame conecters and the back shock then your rear end will come away from the four wheeler check the gears I told you about and if they are worn go buy new ones. Problem solved
There is a transmission, a pinion gear connected to the belt end, and a larger bevel gear connected to the axle, all inside an aluminum shell, we could call it a basic transmission. On my Toro the bevel gear had flat spots on about a third of the teeth, hence it wasn't continuously driving the axle. A new pinion and bevel gear where found as a set on Ebay for $30 plus $5 shipping.
Also the plastic gears in each of the front wheels can wear out and you need new wheel assemblies, they cost about $15 apiece at Sears if you pick them up, $10 more if shipped. Take your old one in, they can match it.
yes exactly that, you can jack the front wheels clear of the ground. Put the front wheels on stands and take the rear tailshaft off at the gear box end, start it up put in both 1st and reverse and look underneath to see weather the uni-joint at the gearbox is spinning. It could well possibly be that you have been just driving around in front-wheel drive with the rear wheels doing very little!
Assembling an oil pump is not that difficult provided you do a few things to insure that it works correctly. Now, you didn't tell me if the engine was in the frame or out. The difference is that the oil pump drive shaft will already be in the engine and the assembly will be different than if the shaft is out of the engine.
The first thing is that you want to make sure the oil seal is in the pump body and that it's installed in the correct direction. The lip of the seal must face the feed side of the pump. If you look at the gears and the pump body, you'll see that two gears are "thicker" than the other two. Also, the area that these gears go into are the same, one side it deeper than the other in the pump body. The "thin" gears are the feed gears that pump oil into the engine and the "thick" gears are the scavenge gears that pump the oil out of the engine. Once you get the seal installed correctly. You can start putting the gears and drive keys in.
Start by pulling the drive shaft out the back side to the engine as far as possible and installing the inner oil pump gasket. "Stick" the gasket to the engine case with a thin coating of grease. Slide the driven scavenge gear on the shaft with the drive key installed in the keyway of the shaft. The driven gear is the gear with the keyway cut in it. Lubricate the drive shaft and slide the pump body up to the gears making sure you don't go too far and knock the key out of the shaft.
Now put the drive key for the feed side of the pump in the keyway of the shaft and install the feed side driven gear. Make sure the key does not come out of the keyway. Once you get this installed, put the idle feed gear in the pump body. Then install the snap ring on the pump end of the shaft.
Now, carefully slide the pump towards the engine while holding the oil pump drive gear in place in the cam chest. Slide the pump body up to the engine and loosely install the two short bolts in the pump body holding it to the engine. Turn the pump drive shaft and the drive gear so that the keyways are aligned and use a pair of needle nose pliers to insert the key. Then install the snap ring on that end of the shaft.
Then, "stick" the outer oil pump gasket on the outer face of the oil pump body and install the outer cover of the oil pump. Install the four bolts and snug them up to the cover. Now you are ready to tighten the bolts. You should have the pinion gear and oil pump drive gear removed from the pinion gear of the pinion shaft of the flywheel. This will allow you to turn the oil pump while you torque the bolts.
The oil pump bolts torque to 90-110 INCH pounds. Torque the bolts in a criss cross pattern while turning the drive gear in the cam chest with your fingers. If the pump tightens up at any point, you must loosen and reposition the pump slightly and start tightening the pump again. The goal is to get the pump to final torque and still be able to turn the pump freely. Freely is the key word here. Not herky-jerky turning or having to force the gear to turn.
Just found the same problem with mine. The bearing on the gear shaft is frozen. To replace these, follow the instructions in the manual to replace the friction wheel, then tap out the bearings in the side of the case, you'll probably find one frozen up. As long as you're there, might as well put in a new friction wheel. Mine is looking pretty worn after fighting the bearings all winter.
I've seen a similar issue on other transmissions where the shifter slips out of the slots in the shift forks, either due to shifter bushing wear or just general wear on tte trans. It can usually be remedied at least temporarily by popping the shifter top off the trans and resetting the forks all back to nuetral and then reinserting the shifter. It gets jammed when two forks are trying to engage two different gear sets.
On one of the 4x4 sites, they tell you how to replace the shifter bushings, cheap fix if you are lucky.