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What size bolt holds the doublepulley part to the main shaft of the motor

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  • Chuck
    Chuck May 11, 2010

    Do you want to know the socket size or the diameter and thread pattern? What engine are you asking about?

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Depending on the engine, 3/8" or 1/2" UNC. The head size on the bolt will be 9/16" or 5/8"

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How to tighten loose bolt inside floor of disposal. was accidentally loosened with silver wrench


First make certain that the disposal is completely disconnected from AC power. Most disposals have a "jam clearing" access feature - actually a hex-shaped opening in the actual motor shaft on the underside of the disposal. With one person holding a properly-sized Allen wrench in this opening to prevent the motor from turning, you may be able to use a socket wrench and extension to tighten bolts in the floor of the disposal bowl.

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How to replace rear main oil seal on vx commodore 5.7 auto


To replace the rear main oil seal I would recommend changing the whole rear main plate with gasket seal already done.
1.disconnect battery
2.raise vehicle on hoist
3.remove exhaust
4.remove tail shaft
5.remove starter motor
6.disconnect and remove transmission
7.remove ring gear
8.you will now see rear main assembly.
9.undo bolts holding rear main plate on
10. remove plate and clean surface area,follow these steps in reverse to refit...

Oct 12, 2012 | Holden VT Cars & Trucks

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Will my 16 hp Briggs from Craftman rider fit Scag walkbehind?


you would need to see what size crank shaft the scag had on it most motors used the same bolt down the same and you could always drill new holes so the shaft size to fit the pulley the scag had i put a 25hp briggs on my riding 61'' scag it had a kohler bolted right on the wiring was different

Apr 19, 2012 | Craftsman Garden

1 Answer

I have an older meade LX2000 EMC 10


The main problems encountered with the mechanics of the telescope centre around the mechanical swarf, grease compound, the liberal use of grease and the quality of machining of the main DEC and RA gears.
1. Remove the motors from the telescope. Be careful when removing either motor as there is a compression spring between the motor mounting frame and the worm shaft assembly.
The RA motor is located under the telescope body, removing the 4 screws and 2 Allen bolts will allow the bottom cover to be removed, thereby allowing access the the 2 Allen bolts holding the motor in place. Unplug the motor from the main PCB before removal.
The DEC motor is in the the fork arm containing the clutch and fine DEC adjustment control. (Never to be used with power applied to the scope). Remove the 3 small Allen screws holding the plastic cover plate in place and the DEC clutch knob to allow access to the motor. Remove the RJ45 connector located inside the telescope fork arm. Then remove the motor by unscrewing the 2 Allen bolts holding the motor in place.
2. Remove all grease from the motor worms, especially around the RA motor's magnetic pulse detector and the permanent magnet built into the worm shaft.
3. Remove all grease from the main DEC and RA gears, making sure to clean into the gear teeth.
4. Lightly re-grease with a Molybdenum Disulphide based grease (Castrol MS3 is great for this application if you can get it)
5. Assemble in reverse order. But before doing so, carry out the electrical adjustment above then, (a) relocate the the RA and DEC control PCB's in the vertical plane thereby gaining access to their respective backlash Allen screws. Adjust for 20thou max clearance when in final position. Note:- the DEC adjustment screw has to be replaced for a longer unit complete with a thin bolthead as this adjustment has to be carried out with a spanner....there is no room for an Allen key adjustment here.
6. A drop of Loctite must be applied after adjustment.
7. The final part of the process is to run in the gearing. Apply 12 volts to the motor wires, either at their respective plugs or to the motor direct. Allow to run for 2 to 3 hours in each direction by reversing the battery polarity to bed the teeth engagement. Remember to release the clutches.

Dec 28, 2011 | Optics

1 Answer

Tryiing to replace motor cannot get diffuser and seal plate free how do they come apart


First remove bolts holding motor to wet end. Pull motor back and out of wet end. Diffuser should just fall off. Not held by anything, there are just some locating tabs. Next, unscrew impeller. Some impellers may have a screw holding it on to center shaft. If so, unscrew.(Backwards thread). Remove back cover on motor and hold centershaft with large screwdriver or wrench on flat of shaft. Unscrew impeller. Next, unscrew 4 bolts holding motor to seal plate.

Apr 17, 2010 | Hayward Super Pump 1 1/2 - Hp for In...

1 Answer

How do you remove the motor from a Flotec FPS5172, 1-1/2 HP.


The impeller screws on the motor shaft. First replace the through bolts in the motor. These are the long bolts, they will just cause headachs. On the back of the motor their will be a place to hold the shaft from turning, If you hold the shaft the impeller just unscrews. If you look in the center of the impeller it may have a set screw holding it to the shaft. If you have one of these it will be a left hand screw. Then you will need to break the impeller free as the brass that holds the impeller on will stick to the stainless steel of the shaft. Don't let how tight this is fool you when you put this back together it just goes on hand tight. Good luck

Nov 23, 2009 | Flotec 1 - 1/2 Sprinkler Pump Composite...

1 Answer

Doesn't always spin, will spin if i give it a push. Load size doesn't matter. Will spin some times and not a other times till I give it some help.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

There are three areas to consider:

1. Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

2. Top load, direct drive washers use a clutch mounted on top of the transmission to direct power to the tub. If the clutch pads or springs are worn or broken, the tub won't spin or in your case, giving an assist to the tub may start it spinning.

3. The transmission on top load, direct drive washers uses a Neutral Drain assembly.

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Giving the tub an assist may help the cams line up with their corresponding tabs in the Main Spin Gear.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual and look at the section on the transmission.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

If the Motor Coupler and Clutch are fine, replacing the Neutral Drain assembly is a bit of a messy job but worth the $15 it cost vs. a $170 transmission.

If necessary, following is a method of replacing the assembly.

First, remove the cabinet and transmission.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode by itself.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.



Oct 19, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do you pull apart a pool pump to replace the bearing onga pomp


Assuming the pump is at your working table, do the ff;
1.Unscrew the bolts holding the pump case.
2. Take the impeller and the mechanical seal off the
pump shaft.
3. Now you can take the motor off the pump by
unscrewing the bolts holding the motor and pump.
4. Then, you can dismantle the motor by unscrewing
the four long bolts holding it.
5. Take the back plate off and the centrifugal switch
on the shaft. Mark the original location.
6. Now, you can pull the rotor out, by a slight force
at the back plate side of the motor shaft. Note
that the front plate hold the bearing is bolted.
The front plate goes out with the rotor.
7, Now you can change the motor bearings.
To reassemble, the procedure is the reverse of what you just done. Send your e-mail for further assistance.


Jun 28, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Leaking hot tub motor


hi! there,
well occassionaly leak on pumps this is due to the mechanical shaft seal has been worn out.If you can do fix your self
try to prepare tools to be used mostly set of socket wrench,set of open and closed wrench,pipe wrench one pair,screw driver flat and cross,switch off circuit breaker of pump motor,disconnect elctrical wiring of pump motor,disconnect pump pipe fitting usually on union service fiiting, if pump is free from fitting loosen bolt on pump motor base,pull out pump motor place on a particular working table,have a prepare box to place all bolt to be disconnected on pumps,we have to pull out motor from pumps housing assemblyd217218.jpg
have you seen hydro pump,the motor assembly was couple to pums assembly.thereare 4 long bolts connected holding motor to pump assembly at the back of motor loosen this to disengage
motor and pump assembly,try to put mark on motor back cover
for reference in putting back.if motor is disengage on pump assembly, of course the rotor of motor still connected on pump assembly.

the shaft seal is connected to the rotor shaft inside pumps assembly,there are 4 bolts holding pump casing front cover loosening this will appear the centrifugal blade connected to rotor shafting holiding by a big nut at tip of rotor shaft.loosen this by socket wrench try to find the size,then pull centrifugal blade with
the shaft seal,buy this one with same specification exact value of shaft seal,if there is mistake buying seal either leak again or to tight.shaft549ea12.jpgso this type is just sample to have idea,afterr you purchased put it back and reassemble the pump motor.thi is easy one, have a nice day don't forget to rate me. thank's

Apr 11, 2009 | Home

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