Question about Kenmore Microwave Ovens

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I have a Kenmore over the stove microwave model #66560652000. Working fine the night before, came in from work yesterday and it was beeping 3 short beeps on the screen was sim auto enter: time them occasionally I would see an F2 appear. Could you tell me if this is repairable or should I just get a new one depending on cost.

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 9,047 Answers

You have a shorting membrane keypad. If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and of course one should never leave a microwave unattended while cooking.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

You can order parts by entering your part number here.

These are the part numbers by color:

8205638 SWITCH, MEMBRANE WHITE
8183551 SWITCH, MEMBRANE BLACK
8183552 SWITCH, MEMBRANE BISCUIT
8183553 SWITCH, MEMBRANE ALMOND

If you would like to have us do this repair for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs nationwide.

For this model, the keypad would run an additional $75.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

NOTE:
The FixYa system is not currently notifying me when folks reply to my posts, so please contact me directly with your brand, model and symptoms for more FREE help & do-it-yourself advice.


Please include this URL, too:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2931938-kenmore_over_stove_microwave_model

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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When you hit "Start" to microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?

Any unusual noises? Is it louder or quieter than usual?

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.

Post a new help request with the answers to these questions as well as the full model number from the tag on or in the unit.

A full Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########

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Your membrane keypad is shorted.

Whether it's available as a separate part, assembly, or if you have to order a whole controller is determined by the model number, which you did not mention.

You can find handy exploded views and order parts by model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid with a one-year guarantee.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

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I would suspect that when the microwave oven was on the table the vent or air openings were restricted by the table. Without free flowing air the control and other components could build up heat. It is doubtful that you built up enough heat to damage anything as this unit has more than one over temperature safety devices built into it.

That being said, the excess heat could weaken something internally especially on the control that would cause it to fail sooner than later in life.

My advice would be to leave it unplugged until it is mounted back on the wall per the instructions and use it then as normal. If it fails in the next year or so replace it at that time.

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Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html (if it is NOT shorted, it's probably fine)
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

Your biggest suspects will be a bad connection or relay on the control panel, a bad connection on the magnetron terminals, a bad magnetron, a shorted high voltage rectifier diode or a bad high voltage transformer.

You can find exploded views and part numbers by entering your model number at the Sears parts site.

A full Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########

You may be able to find better part prices than Sears here.

Your magnetron may have a 5-9 year warranty, so check your manual for that. Sears may send you a magnetron if it's bad and warranty.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Maybe some of the steam from the bioling water and oil and water from the cooking got inside on to the circuit board, and caused some damage.

It is also possible that the heat from the stove did some damage.

It is also possible that there was simply a failure in the system processor area.

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Disclaimer: I'm a DIYer, not a technician.

Our GE over-the-range microwave stopped producing heat yesterday while warming part of the T-giving feast. Everything else (fan, control panel, light) works fine.

After disassembly and testing last night, I discovered a defective "secondary door switch." Your Kenmore uses a similar switch (~$19 on-line), and that might be the problem. But it also could be other things, such as a bad thermal cut-out.

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