Question about Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with In-Door-Ice Dispensing System

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I need to remove front ice maker cover on whirlpool ed22tqxew00

I think it is held on with adhesive only but I'm not sure. I really do not want to crack it. How do I get it off (I need to replace a broken light switch).

Thanks,

Dan Rasmussen

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I'm no expert, and I am myself trying to figure out my ice-maker issue (no ice) but I think it might also depend on your model and how old it is. Mine is 4-5 years old so here's how it is in mine:
If the icemaker cover lifts bottom-up, (and hits the light switch on the top) ... then there are 2 slots into which the cover's center area mini-protrusions (for lack of a better word) are fitted. It's a shift to release mechanism (the release is to push the holders away from the protrusions).

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to remove Kenmore ice maker 363.59572994?


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remove the front plastic cover on the icemaker and you will see a bunch of little holes make a jumper wire out #10 or 12 house wire strip about 1/4 inch off the ends an insert in the holes marked t&h this will start a test cycle make sure you hold the plastic insulation so you don't get bit if the ice maker starts cycling remove the wire and watch for it to stop listen for the icemaker valve to open if the ice maker finishes and the valve didn’t fill replace the water valves if the icemaker doesnt cycle and you may have to kind of twist the jumper back and forth to get it to make contact depending on the gauge you used then replace the ice maker motor module if you hear the valve open and the ice maker doesnt fill check for a frozen ice fill tube that should do it

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Thanks but, I knew this part was working


Iceman, here's a little deal I wrote, check it out, Catriver
Diagnosing Whirlpool and Kenmore s/s with ice bucket in door.
Upon opening of the door the emitter light should flash 2 times with a pause repeatedly. Then when holding the left side emitter flap down the light should stay on steady. If you have this scenerio, your emitter boards are working properly. If you do not, check the following:
First thing to check is the position of the ejector blades on the ice maker. They should be at rest in the 2:00 postion. If you find them in any other position than that, it’s more than likely a module failure. The module is located on the front of the ice maker. To remove the ice maker from it’s mount, remove the quarter inch screw holding the harness cover on the lower right side. Remove the harness cover. Now the ice maker will pull straight out. Unplug the harness. The module is held in by 3 screws in the corners and will pull off.
Often, the black fill tube located on the ceiling will freeze causing a no water fill. This can be fixed by thawing with a hair dryer or some sort of baster using hot water.
To jump start the ice maker do the following: Unplug the refrigerator. With the ice maker out of it’s mount but connected to the harness use a insulated jumper wire stripped a quarter inch on each end and place the jumper in the holes marked T & H on the module. Place the ice maker with the jumper in, on the shelf with enough clearance to close the freezer door. Close the freezer door. Plug the refrigerator back in and wait 50 seconds. Now open the door and see if the module is rotating. If so remove the jumper, put the cover back on the module and place the ice maker back in its mount. The water fill should take place when the ejector blades are at the 12:00 position. Note that on some models, after you have done the aforementioned proceedure you have to press and release the light switch 3 times for the module to start.

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