Using a this lens on a D80, indoors, studio lights. Consistently under exposes get better picture by +.3 to +1.67 exposure vs. auto on the aperture priority. The lens is new. Should I use it or should I work w/ Nikon on a replacement? Have you heard this a common problem with this lens or combination of lens and d80?
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The M42 mount was used by several camera manufacturers, most notably Pentax. Nikon is not one of them. Vivitar made many lenses with a T-mount. This consists of a screw mount on the lens and a suitable adapter, depending on the camera body. This allows a lens to be used with different cameras simply by changing the adapter. If your lenses are T-mount, then yes, there are adapters available. One source is here. Be aware that you'll probably lose any metering capability when using any lens with this adapter. You'll have to use a separate light meter or else view the resulting picture on the display and adjust the exposure appropriately.
Turn the aperture ring to its smallest setting (largest f/number). You control the aperture from the camera body, as on a lens without an aperture ring. Turn the mode dial to M (manual). The camera's exposure meter will not work with this lens. You can use another lens to get an approximate exposure, or take pictures and review them and/or use the histogram to fine-tune the exposure. The camera won't autofocus, of course, but the in-focus indicator in the viewfinder will still light up to indicate proper focus.
First off the power switch must be turned to the position past "on" (this allows the thumb wheel to be used". Then while in any of the "creative zones" (except "M") half press the shutter then rotate the thumb wheel and this will allow you to move the AEB slider to your desired position.
If you mean a manual-focus lens, just focus the lens using the focus ring on it.
If you mean a non-electronic lens, then you need to set the camera to Manual exposure mode. Control the shutter speed by turning the command dial. Control the aperture by turning the aperture ring on the lens. You will get no metering assistance from the camera: you can use another light meter (this includes using a different lens on your camera just to get an exposure reading) or just take pictures and look at the results on the LCD.
This can happen if you have ISO control set to Auto and have spot metering selected, especially if it's set to spot shadow or spot highlight. Over exposure probably means it's set to spot shadow metering.
With spot metering the camera measures exposure from just a very small point in the scene, and so slight camera movements will cause the metering spot to wander onto different exposure settings very easily. If the camera is either set to use restricted apertures or shutter speeds due to program or lens limitations then it will compensate by adjusting the ISO settings instead
Never use auto ISO, just choose what you need for the conditions rather than using the camera's best (& usually poor) guess. Alsonever use spot metering unless you know why you're using it. The default multi-pattern metering is extremely accurate for most situations.
Please check the camera settings based on what I've said, if it fixes your problem then please rate my answer. If not then please add further details of which lenses and camera settings you're using and I'll try to help you further.
With the same exposure settings, you should get the same result. When using Bulb in Manual mode, you also need to be sure you have set the lens aperture to the largest opening (lowest number). And don't forget to set ISO to 1600. Since the D80 has shutter speeds as long as 30" (minutes) I recommend you use them instead of Bulb, unless you need longer.
The blue areas are heat noise from long exposure -- other electronic components near the sensor are generating heat from the constant current flow. Be sure you check your Shooting Menu settings to set Long Exposure NR to ON and also High ISO NR to HIGH.
The problem lies in you camera's CCD unit which is located on the back of the lens held on be 3 small screws it could also be a setting in the camera's menu try going into the menu and reseting the camera to default it works some times if that does not work than you need the ccd replaced pretty easy fix I fixed 1 with the same problem about two weeks ago for someone it happens I hope this helps you out.