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The Harddrives PCB power plug came out and broke 4 power pins on my WD3000GLFS GB VelociRaptor. I need pins and repair tools or a new PCB board. Tom

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  • wttrace Sep 20, 2009

    Ekse
    Sorry I did not get back sooner. I was able to solder a power connector on 2 +3.3 VDC and 2 com , Vary hard to do it was so small. Thanks for the help.
    Tom


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Take a 4 pin molex male connector, cut the wires and solder them to the PCB board.

you can buy this locally from a shop:

The Harddrives PCB power plug - e50fe0b.jpg

On the left you see the male, cut the wires about 2-3 inch from the connector just enought so it is long enough to reach the connectors on the board.

Solder the yellow wire to the +12V
the black ground wire next to the yellow wire to the next contact on the board.
again, the other black ground wire next to the other black wire and the red wire on the other side.
Last one, red wire, +5V

92f56c7.jpg

if this part of the board is broken. you may have to carefully solder the 4 wires to different spots, the board may not be repairable at all at that point. You will most likely need a new board, attempt at your own risk then.

if this is a SATA power connector see pinout and solder appropriately

4 wires, each connected to 3 pins.

How and where to get a new pcb?

a) from another drive.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=WD3000GLFS&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=WD3000GLFS+PCB&_osacat=0

no other ideas.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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If you have a jeweles loupe', a steady hand, patience and an affinity for cursing....you might just be able to pull it off. I have done this repair in the past and it can be done.The first thing that needs to be done is the controller pcb board on the bottom has to come off. This is where the IDE interface lives so you don't need to mess with the main drive.

There is another option if you want to try it, Get the model of the drive from the front sticker and search for a new pcb board on Ebay, the controller board can be purchased.

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I have left my hard drive off for 12 hours as adviced, but on turning it on again the problem is still the same. The drive is trying to boot up over and over again.


My solution will be multipart, and lengthy. So if you're a coffee drinker, I suggest you make yourself a fresh pot

Reasoning? I'm going to explain a little bit about the hardware makeup of an external harddrive, and multiple solutions that in the hopes of one of them, may cure your problem.
I'm trying to arm you with as much information as I can, so you can use deductive reasoning, and take the best approach for You.

General symptoms that affect an external harddrive,

1.Bad USB cable. Although it is unlikely, USB cables can go bad.

2.Power supply.
To solve this problem, you need another power supply just like the one you have, for a test. ( Not exactly laying around. I have a work around for that, which I will detail later)

3.Controller failed.
Inside that external enclosure, (The metal, or plastic box of the external harddrive), is an ordinary harddrive such as used in a desktop, or laptop computer.

Yours has a Desktop size harddrive in it. (They measure 3 and a half inches across in width. 3.5"
Laptop HD's measure 2.5")

Harddrives are IDE, or SATA. All harddrives have been going to SATA for quite some time.
Yours is a SATA harddrive.

Inside the external case is an Interface, connected on a Controller Board.

Harddrives use metal round pins that are built on the harddrive itself. These in turn plug into an Interface, or also can be referred to as a Socket.

With an external harddrive, the harddrive itself may plug right into the Interface, (Socket. The metal pins of the harddrive plug into the Interface socket holes), or the Interface plugs onto the harddrive, and cables lead from it to a small PCB in the external harddrive enclosure. (Case)

The metal pins transfer data (Information) back and forth. (Signal pins)
Power for the harddrive is also transmuted through these pins.
Just like plugging in a lamp to a receptacle.

The Controller Board is a PCB. Printed Circuit Board.
This is connected to the bottom of the harddrive. It controls the mechanism inside the harddrive.

This is a link to Howstuffworks>Computer Channel>
Computer Hardware>Hard Drives and Disks>How Harddrives Work,

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/hard-disk.htm

When you arrive at Page 5 you'll see the Controller Board. (Their term is Electronics Board)
The Controller Board can be safely removed from the harddrive, and not ruin the harddrive.

You cannot open a harddrive case itself, where the Platters and Arms reside, Unless you have the proper environment.
('Clean Room'. A 99.9% dust free room that would make NASA jealous! This type of room is where a typical harddrive is assembled)

If you use an ESD wrist s-trap and connect it to a good ground source, plus work on a table, you can safely remove, and replace the Controller Board. (No magnetism Anywhere near! NO speakers!)
An average ESD (Electro Static Discharge) wrist s-trap is about $6.

This link shows the connector pins I have been referring to,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hdd.jpg

(You can click on the photo to enlarge it)

At the bottom of the photo is the back of the harddrive. All the way to the right are 4 pins. These are not recommended to be used on a SATA harddrive, but are for power to the drive.

All the way to the left, is a connection which has 15 pins for the Power connector, and to the right of it are 7 pins for the Data connector.
(It's in the upside down U shaped opening. There is a rectangular wide opening all the way to the left, then a narrow rectangular opening, then the upside down U shaped opening)

4.Harddrive failure. The mechanism inside the harddrive itself has failed. These are mechanical components, as you can see in the Howstuffworks link. Average lifespan for a harddrive is 5 years. Depends on how much it's used.

Solutions:

A.If the harddrive is still under warranty, you can see if the manufacturer will replace it. HOWEVER, they do not guarantee anything that is stored on it. You will get another harddrive minus your information.

B.You can take it to a Data Recovery Specialist. Average price is $50 per hour on up. Average time is minimum 1 hour, and usually takes 3.
I could be mistaken, do research for your area.

C.
1.You could start with using another USB cable, and see if this is the problem.

No?
2.Then it's on to the power supply. This solution cures 2 possible problems. I didn't mention, that sometimes the small PCB board in the external case also goes bad. Most of the time, according to hits on the internet, this is a major problem with a LaCie external hardrive.

The small Printed Circuit Board inside their external harddrive case, (Enclosure), goes bad.

Solution is to buy an external enclosure for a 3.5" SATA harddrive. Take the harddrive out of the LaCie external enclosure, and install it in this one.

Check computer hardware websites on the internet. (Examples of two are Tigerdirect, and Newegg) Look for Harddrive Enclosure. Then 3.5, then SATA.
Average price for a decent one is $20.

3.If this doesn't cure it it may be the Printed Circuit Board on the bottom of the harddrive. If your data warrants saving, then you may want to buy the SAME style of harddrive, borrow it's PCB, and get your information off of your old harddrive. More cost I grant you, but cheaper than a Recovery Specialist. You aren't buying another LaCie external harddrive, you are buying just the saqme SATA harddrive used inside.

Past this, the harddrive mechanism itself has quit. Only a very competent, reliable, Recovery Specialist can recover your data, if possible.

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Master (M) on the harddrive that came with the computer, Slave, (S, or SL), on the 2nd harddrive.

Don't see M, S, and CS, on the label of the harddrive? (CS is Cable Select)
Sometimes it's right on the edge, where the 40 pin flat ribbon cable plugs in. It will be letters raised in the plastic, of the harddrive body.

To find where to set the jumpers for these harddrives, I suggest you look at the label. Since you had the Printed Circuit board replaced, I'm guessing you know who made it, and what the model number is.

Some harddrive manufacturers,
1.Western Digital
2.Maxtor, (Maxtor is owned by Seagate now)
3.Seagate
4.Hitachi
5.NEC (No longer in business)
6.Quantum, (sold out to Maxtor)

Here are three links that are videos, and may help with setting jumpers, and setting up those IDE harddrives. (IDE is also referred to as EIDE, ATA, and PATA)
(If you have SATA harddrives, do not touch the jumpers, if any are present! These are for the factory. With a SATA harddrive, you can plug it/them, into ANY available SATA header, {Connector}, on the motherboard. Doesn't matter!)

1.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwbboeMO7b8&feature=related
2.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4inX3nC6M1E&feature=related
3.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtEcwRqzeVo&feature=related

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I don't think you'll be completely happy with this, but I'm pretty sure the DC Jack (the power plug you broke) is soldered onto the power control board. This doesn't mean it's not repairable. I've done this with some good success in the past, but you might just want to replace this entire "daughter" board. HERE'S ONE on eBay for about $75, a lot less than the $200 for the mainboard or more for a complete replacement or repair. You could try to repair the DC jack and if that $12 fix fails, replace the entire Power Control Board (PCB). I think you should take it apart and check at least. It isn't that difficult if you have patience and the right tools. You'll need a "computer" or "electronics" screw driver kit and something like a credit card to help pry apart plastic pieces without scratching them. I also found this thread on NotebookReview that talks about doing what you want to. To see what the board looks like check out these pictures: eBay: 3680 mobo1 http://i17.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/0d/e1/7ce9_1.JPG To pick up the DC Jack you'll need, check out eBay, they are around $12 shipped. HERE'S ONE EXAMPLE GOOD LUCK!

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