Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

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I have a fav6800aww maytag neptune stop durring cycle

I have a fav6800aww maytag neptune. On a quick cycle it will stop with 22 mins left, it sounds like it wants to spin and it will for 3 secs and stop for 30-60 sec and repeat. I have pulled the clutch and cleaned, tub spins with little or no effort only ccw, I have done a displacement test, passed. I did a pressure switch test and did not change from -0 to -1, i did not fill with water i just pushed down on tub, don't know if it makes a differance. If someone could help me diagnose this problem or find a wire diagram i would really appriciate it.

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  • 1 more comment 
  • mttwtkns Sep 12, 2009

    Im not sure how to check the water flow but both hot and cold water will enter the tub. That is what i mean by pull clutch. I think its is the start of the spin cycle or a tumble. When it stops there is still 3-4 inches (1-1.5 gal)of water but i can go into the service mode and the pump will drain that out.

  • mttwtkns Sep 18, 2009

    thank you for your expertise on this i ordered a clutch from and it work like it should HOWEVER i found out why it went bad i am leaking water and oil from the back of the tub i can see where its leaking from but i dont know if its worth replacing. so if you have an opinion i am very interested

  • mttwtkns Oct 08, 2009

    Sorry its taking so long to respond ive been very busy. Now to the machine, this thing is really starting to get at me, ive kind of put the leak aside for the time being. Now i cant make it through a cycle because it wont drain the water all the time i can hear the pump running but it wont drain, sometimes it will kick on and off for 30 min and then drain by its self others i have to restart it then maybe it will work. In the service mode it does the same occasional thing. Ive pulled the hose off and it doesnt look like there is anything obstructing it. So any help is appriciated. Thanks



3 Answers

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Hello mttwtkns,
I’m an owner like you; from what you describe I feel you have a clutch issue. You don’t mention dc or UC errors when the spin cycle fails in Quick Wash cycle or any wash cycle. The 22 min mark in Quick Wash cycle is the start of the first spin cycle. What most owners don’t realize is this machine is designed to begin the spin cycle with a fair amount of water in the wash tub. When it fails in spin cycle because of unbalance errors they report the machine failed to drain properly. I believe the Maytag design team designed the firmware in the Control Board to do this to help dampen out tub oscillations at the start of the spin cycle. You are one of a few owners that have taken the SM and used the Control Board diags to troubleshoot. Good job!!! and very refreshing to hear. See this post for a step by step process to remove the clutch. Try a maintenance clean up of the Oneway Roller Clutch bearing and see if that will get you back in service, if not I would do a Clutch replacement. My machine is a series 16 doesn’t use the upper one-way roller clutch bearing. You series of machine is the 1ST two numbers of your serial number of the machine. Some parts are seria number/series dependent.
Don’t get hung up on the pressure switch. It sets on top of the drain pump. You can test as you know in Service Mode thru the board input testing of page 16 of the SM. Just fill with a few buckets of water until you see the transition -0 to -1 for low level. That’s about 3.5 inches of water in the wash Basket. Then as you stated turn on the drain pump in Service Mode to pump out the wash tub. Your drain pump is fine as you have already tested. I have a post on a retrofit of the Sump Cap where I installed a stainless steel screen to protect the pump impeller from coins and other trash. Again I feel you have a clutch issue, I would like to see dc/UC errors to the display for this fail to spin issue. Are you sure you are not taken those unbalance errors to the display?. You could also go into Service Mode and read all the error codes. See page 25/26 for unbalance diag error code blocks 5 and 10. Post back if you need additional help. Rich

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

Testimonial: "thank you for your input i replaced the clutch and it cycles great bet if you could read my comment and get back to me i would appriciate it "

  • 3 more comments 
  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Sep 18, 2009

    Hello mttwtkns ,

    The machine won't give ya a break. I feel the oil is from the transmission and the tub seal may need to be replaced maybe even the tranny O ring..

    This is a bit more work and will require a special tool to remove the Spinner Assembly from the outer tub. I saw the tool for $25 and also on ebay for around $65. The tub seal can be found on and other sites as you have found.

    How much oil is leaking onto the clutch compared to water? I haven't had to change the tub seal so I have no first hand knowledge but have helped other folks with the issue via this format of support. As an owner and not a repair person I would do the job in a heartbeat. I feel you have the skills and desire it will come down to cost effectiveness that you need to decide on. I’m bent on pushing this poor Maytag design $1K machine to the 8 yr mark.

    I’m at work right now on lunch break when I get home tonight 1am East Coast I’ll post some more info. Tub seal p/n link to a forum member that removed Spinner Assembly. Again I’m concerned about the oil, that’s coming from the tyranny. The bummer is the special tool to break loose nut that secures the spinner shaft to the outer tub. The SM shows this tool and the tub seal removal process.

    You can also look at past post I have submitted by clicking on my user name dh1200s. Look fo tub seal in the subject description.

    Maybe a repair person can shed some light on this, again I would take this on in a New York minute.

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Sep 18, 2009

    Hello mttwtkns

    Follow this post and see if it helps on solving your tub water leak. Also how much oil compared to water? Again I would be concerned about both. The transmission gears are in a sealed waterproof assembly. Water leak/Oil leak I feel is a tub seal issue as we are discussing in the post I link to. Here is a pic of the transmission. If you are not taking oil spots in the wash basket I feel the leak is from the agitator shaft drive input to the tranny. Maybe a more knowledge forum member will chime in.

    Pic of bottom of tranny, input female splined drive to transmission gears.

    Agitator Shaft Male Spline that drives the tranny to rotate the tumblers.

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Oct 09, 2009

    I have to break the comment up in two post this baord has very short message posting.

    I need to be clear on this…. It sounds like you replaced your Clutch per this post is that correct?

    If you did replace the clutch how much Water and Oil did you find in the clutch? How did the Clutch One-Way Roller bearings look? I assume you found your water/oil leak from the Clutch Pulley/Agitator shaft, is that correct?

    I still believe your machine is failing in spin cycle from a clutch malfunction from what you describe but you report no unbalance errors such as “dc” or “UC” .

    If you have no errors to the console with the wash cycle failing in what I believe is the spin cycle you need to “Display Diagnostic Codes” starting on page 25 of the Service Manual. Write down all the codes as you step thru them and post them back to us. I can’t stress enough how important it is to have the machine fail codes to troubleshoot issues in this format. If you successfully replaced the clutch in your machine I feel you have the skill sets to repair most issues with the machine. If you need phone support e-mail me contact info to just let me know in this forum that you have e-mailed me. I don’t check that box very often.

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Oct 09, 2009

    Next, I feel you don’t’ have drain line restriction or drain pump issue at this stage of troubleshooting but let’s check.

    Place 5 gallons of water in the machine and then enter Service Mode; here is the process it’s in the SM on page 16 “Board Output Test”.

    Enter / Exit Service Mode

    To enter Service Mode press the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys simultaneously for three seconds or until the control beeps the Console display will show “00”.

    While in Service Mode, pressing the Delicates key will begin the Board Output Test. This test turns on a specified output after a key press. (Pressing the Delicates key again cancels the test.) All outputs will be turned off after five (5) minutes. Turn the drain pump to pump out the tub by pressing the Presoak key.

    My machine will pump out 5 gallons of water in about 25 seconds. How quickly did your system pump out the tub? Post back the results.

    Turn off the drain pump by pressing the Presoak key or Off button.

    See sclarke7 post in this thread he is right with his description of tumbler rotation at the start of spin cycle. He deserves a vote. I have posted many times about the process of the Roller Clutches not locking up at the start spin cycle and allowing some agitator shaft rotation causing some tumbler rotation unbalancing the wash load as the wash basket begins to spin up……Bang….. dc/UC error. Owners report, Fail to spin, Fail to drain most owners have these fail codes dc/UC.

    Let us know your resuls……………Rich

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Oct 09, 2009

    To sclarke7 you have my vote! Most DIY owners won’t dig deep enough into troubleshooting to find cause and effect.

    Lot of FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW's end up out at the curb on bulk trash pick up day..... dh1200s


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The Problem IS the clutch.
to verify the problem you should get a putty knife and open the top of the machine by releasing clips at the font left and right approx 6 inches in, you push the clips in with the putty knife and lift the corner of the top, it is a good idea to tape the lid shut first, hold the corner that you start with up while releasing the other side.
Once you have the top lifted, start the machine in a spin cycle, if the paddles move at all before or at the start of the spin cycle you will notice that the clothes are being pulled up one side of the tub, this is caused by the slipping clutch.
the load goes off balance and triggers the machine to shut down and reorganize the load. it will do it several times and then shut down usually with an eventual UL code.
replace the clutch, and you should see improvement, be aware that the new clutch will come with a plastic yellowish or white adapter, if yours had the adapter use it with the new one if it did not then remove it, make sure that the clutch assy is all the way up and secure.
Good luck.

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

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  • 415 Answers

Is it failing in the rinse cyc if so are you getting proper water flow on both the hot and or cold but when you state that you pulled the clutch? do you mean the pully wheel. if the unit if failing to drain all the way it will not advance for the remainder of the cyc check you water pump to ensure its pumping properly of if an coin has gotten in pump it may have chewed the inpellers and replacement is req

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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This is a Clutch issue could be a easy fix if the Tub Seal is not the root cause.

If you get no help at this forum Google This ""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW""

5th post down you will find the SM and support for the "DC and UC" unbalance error codes. Good luck..............DH1200s

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