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Fisher & Paykel 36 in cooktop ignitor

Ignitor keeps clicking at different times while cooking. Unit has done this since new, several months now....Thanks

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SOURCE: Gas Burner ignitor is not working

Yes it should be an easy fix.
Ignitors simply go bad from time to time.

If you have a meter you can check to see if you have voltage going to the ignitor. If you do, and it isnt trying to ignite, replace the ignitor.
If you have no meter, ignitors are usually less than 30 bucks so you will not be to much in the hole by just replacing it.

If you lift the cover to access the ignitor, it should be held in by two crews, the gas tube, and a wire to the flame sensor.

Make sure you turn off all gas and electric before disassembling.

You can find ignitors at your local appliance parts supply house.
All you need is the model and serial numbers.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Miele KM 320 G gas cooktop ignitor

I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat. The surface of the board was charred beyond repair.
To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs. If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics. If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter.
Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners.
To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides. Here are the instructions from the user manual:
Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs.
In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports.
Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob.
Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals.
To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Profile JPG636 cooktop has an ignitor

The most common cause for this issue is from liquid getting into the ignition system for the range. If someone has spilled water or other liquids into the burner knobs or the ignition system it will cause an electrical short in the system causing the igniters to come on constantly when the knobs are off. The fix to this is to unplug the range and wait 24 hours for the liquids to dry up. You can speed up this process with a hair dryer pointed at the burner stems(knobs removed). Once the liquids have dried up the problem should stop. I would not leave it plugged in until then because the ignition system could be damaged from the constant sparking.

Posted on Feb 23, 2010

  • 234 Answers

SOURCE: ignitor does not click

there is no "ignitor" as you would find in an oven or dryer. There is a sparkmodule that many times goes bad after 5 to 8 years. It is a plastic box about 4 to 6 " x 2" wide and wil have 3 to 5 wires or 3 to 5 terminal connector points on it. remember to unplug the range top fromwall electric. these units are not difficult to replace; they are not repairable, you have to buy a new one.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: disassembling kitchenaid gas cooktop to

Here is a tip that I wrote to help people troubleshoot problems with their cooktops not igniting.

Cooktop Range Stove spark ignition does not work


Posted on Aug 21, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Jenn-Air JGC8536 Gas Cooktop ignitor replacement

One burner doesn't consistently light. Igniter sparks but not the same as the other - "good" burners spark at top of igniter and moves around to light, "bad" burner sparks toward the bottom and doesn't move much. I can use the burner by lighting with a match and it works fine. Have tried cleaning with a toothbrush without much success

Posted on Feb 15, 2011

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My Miele KM342 cooktop has one burner that keeps clicking when on, regardless if the other burners are on or not. This is annoying when cooking. Can it be fixed.

Have you tried to just move the knob away from the 'Start" position. this sounds like the ignitor is still engaged. Aside from that, I'm not sure of a solution.

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Here is a tip that I wrote that will help figure out why the burner spark keeps on clicking...

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Sounds like someone washed down theb cooktop. If the moisture traveled throughout the contacts, the clicking sound will continue while off, until things dry out. Unplug cord from wall, give it some hours, maybe even a day or so, for moisture to evaporate. This worked for me in past. Give it a try. Good luck

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Just solved this on the Kenmore model 911.33389 (same unit). Ignitors started with no one touching the cooktop. It has had a history of doing this and, this time, sparks were visible under the knob. Disassembled cooktop (don't forget to unplug and shut off the gas!). Performed "smell test" for burned electronics. Found smell in #3 ignitor switch. Disassembled and found worn, burned, and fried. Parts list was inside unit but had a typo for the "ignitor switch". Showed WB18T10240. Ordered that only to discover it was the transformer to ignitor wire harness set (no photo on website!). Wrong part... ugh! Dug deeper for the correct part #. It was WB18T10239 but it has been replaced with WB18T10344. Noted on some website that someone installed one and then the ignitor was NOT synchronized. Turns out, you can install WB18T10344 about three different ways. Mine was 22 degrees off vertical (different than original) and now my unit works perfectly! Also, install the new switch harness (if that's what you do) starting from the left front valve then clockwise. The original unit installed from the right front valve, then clockwise. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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Hi yes it could be that if it only just done this leave it off you can still use the top the heat while cooking should dry it out.

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