Had the same problem.I fixed it by carefully prying the top lid apart,the latch had become detached from the slider inside.Simply snap the latch back onto the slider and snap lid assembly back together.Do all this unplugged with reservoir empty.
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Try spraying some penetrating oil on the latch and use a screwdriver to push the latch down as if the hood was closed. Have someone pull the release on the inside and do it over several times to get the latch to move freely.If this does not work, check for hood alignment problems to see if it is contacting the latch properly.
if you have a chance to put the car in a heated garage somewhere for some hours it would help...
-after the car is warmed up you need to spray some silicone spray on the trunk door and around all the rubber sealing and the fuel door hinge to have it better prepared for freezing temperatures.... blog carlist my
This message is often the result of people trying to close the bobbin door too quickly before the bobbin / hook mechanism has swung in properly. There is a complex system of gearing called the 'console motor / gear' that does all the clever bits like swinging the bobbin out, dropping the feed dogs and operating the bobbin thread cutter and this can get dislodged. Switch the machine off and open the bobbin door. Above the black plastic cover for the rear of the hook mechanism, you should see a small latch which is operated by a mechanism that slides left-to-rightacross it. Check that the 'pip' on the sliding mechanism has not overrriden the latch and is on the outside of it. If it is, you can sometimes carefully push it back to the right-hand-side of the latch and all will be well, however what frequently happens is that the 'drive' end of this mechanism gets dislodged from the console gear and its then a dismantling job to put right ... dont mess about with 820's they are very difficult to set up !!! Something else to try, is to remove the needle and bobbin, switch on the machine with the bobbin door open, then close it and open it again and see if the hook mechanism will swing out. Also, again, without the needle fitted (very important), try rotating the handwheel backwards, but if you come up against any resistance, STOP ... the user manual is incorrect in its advice where it says " use considerable force" - this is an error in translation and I've already had one customer who did 400 pounds of damage in following that advice.
Your hood latch probably isn't returning to the right position for it to catch. This is commonly caused by one of two problems: (1) too much hardened grease and crud on the latch itself is keeping it from operating freely; or (2) the hood release cable has gotten rusty or kinked over time and is no longer releasing completely.
I would suggest testing the hood release cable before doing anything else. It's an easy test and it only takes a minute. Enlist the help of a second person to pull the hood release lever while you look at the hood latch. When your helper pull on the release, you should see the cable pull part of the hood latch. When they let go, that part should swing back to its prior position. Using a long-shafted screwdriver, see whether you can "help" that moving part move any further on its return path. If you can push the latch any significant amount, it's not returning all the way to its proper position, and your hood release cable is probably binding.
In the short term, if you manually push the hood latch back into position, you should be able to close your hood again. However, you'll have to do this each time you open the hood. In addition, you run the risk that, not too far in the future, your hood release cable will actually completely bind or snap, and then you'll have a much harder time opening your hood to replace the cable (or do anything else, like add oil or washer fluid).
Have you tried spraying with penetrating spray (WD-40 for example) and make sure the lever on the hatch part is open? If you look at the latch itself on the hatch, there should be an open notch like spot where it lines up with the striker at the bottom. After spraying it well, in behind, all around as many angles as you can with the little nozzle of spray can, try using a screwdriver and move the little armlike part that swings down to close that latch. It should snap over the slot to close the hole.Then pull the handle & see if it snaps back out of the way. Keep working that back & forth a few times, then try to close it again. Your lock on your hatch may be holding it too, but lets see how you make out with this first. Let me know what you find.
With the trunk open try putting the key in and turning so that the latch swings open. This may be the problem. The latch may be stuck closed. with the key turned make sure the latch is open if it is not then take a scrwedriver and pry on the latch with the key turned to open it. Then try to close the trunk. I hope this helps. Don't forget to rate my answer. thanks.
I don't know if you've tried this, but it works like gangbusters for me. I use non-senseo pods with the 2-pod holder, and they're too big for the 1-pod holder but not quite big enough for the 2-pod one.
I would frequently end up with a lousy, weak cup of coffee, and after a little investigation I deduced that water was flowing into the pod holder and AROUND the pod, without going THROUGH the pod directly. The name-brand senseo pods fit perfectly, and always produce a strong cup, even if I don't like their coffee, and it's because there's such a tight seal between where water flows in and where it flows out.
Simple solution: Put your pod in with the flat part facing up, and the bulgy part facing down. Press it down hard into the 2-cup holder. Run a little HOT tap water, and lightly wet the surface of the pod--not so much water that the pod starts floating in the holder, but enough to get it soggy. Then make your cup of coffee. The water will flow through the pod first, and kind of like siphoning gas through a hose, once it's started going through the pod it won't stop. Instant awesome cup.
I have had the Cuisinart DGB-600BC for a bit over a year. The coffee grinds, and then sometime during the brewing cycle, it will go, "beep beep, beep beep, beep beep..." on and on.
I think I have traced the problem to the latch on the top lid that you open to access the bean hopper. I believe the latch sticks and doesn't close the lid tightly enough. It will appear to be closed, but the latch isn't all the way in place.
So, there is a small screw on the inside of the latch in the lid. Carefully unscrew this, remove the screw, latch, and the small spring. Remember which way the latch faces.
With a warm damp paper towel, clean the latch and the slot in the lid that the latch goes into. Reassemble, and make sure the screw is not so tight that the latch doesn't move freely.
The locks shut due to a pressure build up in the pod chamber usually caused by a blocked filter in the centre of the pod holder.
The only way to open the unit is to releive the pressure. The pressure will normally reduce over time, the duration being determined by the pressure build up, condition of pod seals and the strength of the blockage.
A quick DIY solution: (small cable tie and screwdriver required)
Un plug the unit from the mains:
Remove the water container and prise open the rear snap fit panel of the unit carefully using a screwdriver to expose the internal workings, the overflow pipe at the top of the cover must be disconnected to gain enough access to work on the unit.
.The small metal boiler in the centre of the unit is used to heat the water for the machine, if the boiler is still hot allow it to cool down sufficiently for work to commence.
The exit pipe at the top of the boiler feeds directly to the pod chamber, if you squeeze this pipe you will feel that it is under pressure. Cut the cable tie connecting the pipe to the boiler (be careful, dont cut the pipe) and remove the pipe to release the pressure, a small ammount of water will be released during the procedure. The lid should open.
Reconnect the pipe to the boiler replace the cable tie, refit the rear cover making sure to push the overflow pipe back on before you snap the cover shut.
Remove the pod holder and clear the blockage blow through the holder in the reverse direction to ensure the filter is clear.
Replace the pod holder and pour a small amount of water on to it. The water should exit through the delivery spouts if the path is clear.