Question about ICOM Informatique Icom M34 Handheld Vhf Radio

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How do you get the PCB out all the 4 screws are out and clips are pushed off the pcb contacts on the sides. Unscrewed the antenna, but not the soldered in bulk antenna mount. I is still locked in somehow? how do I get the board out to look at the keypad buttons so I can see if threre is a bad contact?

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Have you taken the nut off the antenna connector? If it's one of the famous "J-style" connectors, Icom (and others) sell a special spanner to take that off without buggering up the threads. Worth having if you're going to be working on any of their handhelds in any quantity. If not, you can make one with a couple of small finishing nails epoxied into the end of a piece of plastic conduit. It only has to last for two operations then, and is cheaper than the $35-40 for the "real" tool. HTH. -- Barney --

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

  • barney2xbass Jan 03, 2010

    BTW, since this is a submersible radio, look under the boots around the top mounted controls. The land mobile versions of these rigs have smaller slotted nuts (like the one around the antenna connector) that also loch the top of the main PCB to the case. -- B --

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What radio are you talking about?

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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There are 4 screws:

1. Remove front bezel
2. unscrew 4 small screws (1 hole has anti tamper tape over)
3. remove "dome" rear of unit.
4. Remove 2 screws holding speaker in
5. Carefully remove all metal tape covering electronics
6. Remove 4 small screws securing PCB to unit
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Error code E000064-0000


E064-0000 Description The presence of a high-voltage error is communicated by the composite power supply PCB (The output for primary charging, developing, or transfer has deviated from a specific level of voltage) Causes The contact has poor connection. The wiring is faulty. The composite power supply PCB is faulty. The DC controller PCB is faulty. proce Remedy 1. Contact Is any of the contacts of the primary charging roller, developing assembly, or transfer charging roller soiled? Or, is there poor contact? YES: Clean the contact, and set it once again. 2. Wiring Is the wiring between the contacts for the following normal: DC controller PCB (J301), composite power supply PCB (J136), primary charging roller, developing assembly, transfer charging roller? a. DC controller PCB (J301) <-> composite power supply PCB (J136) b. composite power supply PCB (J130-7) <-> primary charging roller contact c. composite power supply PCB (J130-1) <-> developing assembly contact d. composite power supply PCB (FT133) <-> transfer roller contact NO: Correct the connection. 3. Composite power supply PCB, DC controller PCB Try replacing the composite power supply PCB. Is the problem corrected? YES: Yes. NO: Replace the DC controller PCB

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D-17 indicates incorrect master roll. there's several possibilites for this. the mosty common are:

1. its an incorrect master roll
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3. (less common) Same issue as above, pins are pushed back on black jack behind master making unit inside of riso. (sometimes not straightenable and must be replaced)
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5. (even more rare) bad rf reader, antenna, cable (usually visably pinched) or antenna pcb

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Answer from
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http://www.fixya.com/support/t16011345-p_touch_model_pt_65_won_39_t_turn_when

Replace the "Toner Sensor PCB Assy" model # LJ9935001. It is located in the left side panel which is easily removed (2 screws).

"I have solved my own problem, I have a second identical printer that just developed the same problem, so this seems like a common problem. The solution was to replace the "toner sensor pcb assy" model # lj9935001. It is located in the left side panel which is easily removed (2 screws), I had it replaced in half an hour and that was the first time. It clips in ,the wire needs threading a little then then connector . if you take your time and think it through it is easy then turn it on and presto nothing but green status light. costs $18.50 with shipping ground. Contact Brother 901-379-1000, get customer service and ask for parts dept. Best of luck."


I found the the Toner Sensor PCB Assy" model # LJ9935001 for $9.89 just by searching through Google and Amazon, so shop around, $18.50 is expensive when you can buy a gently used PT-65 on ebay for $10 - $25.

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Ge Washer GSLP1100D0WW keep getting a dr code near the end of the cycle it stops at 28 mins and then when i hit start it counts at 30 gets down to 28 again and does the same dr code again


Your problem lies in the PCB assembly, or pump motor, most likely the PCB assembly.
1. open lid
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4. remove screws connecting PCB assembly to control panel
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6. Disconnect wire harness connectors from PCB.


Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Freedom 20 stopped working after ac breaker tripped


How do you get the PCB out all the 4 screws are out and clips are pushed off the pcb contacts on the sides. Unscrewed the antenna, but not the soldered in bulk antenna mount. I is still locked in somehow? how do I get the board out to look at the keypad buttons so I can see if threre is a bad contact?

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2 Answers

Antenna broke and I replaced it


If your not sure what to do at this point you probably should stop right here, however if your bold enough to try this, remove the back cover, I believe there are 6 (six) screws in total, there is also a small metal contact that touches the main circuit board on the back side, that also connects to the antenna, most often a springy piece of gold plated metal attached to a solid threaded nut, where the antenna is attached that fits snugly into the back cover of the phone when the cover is installed the nut is secured and won't fall out. This contact could be on the nut or on the main board if you bent it out a bit to make better contact, you will most likely fix your phone. Cheers!

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1 Answer

Settings


As mentioned, I have got to the bottom of this without Onkyo's help. I replaced the offending component, which is a 5.5V 0.1F backup capacitor. This is mounted on the front PCB, just below the right hand side of the display. It is a right pain to get to. Here briefly is what to do:
1: Unplug (really important!), remove top cover.
2: Undo three screws underneath front panel edge, pull off volume and tone knobs, and gently pull off metal front panel from the bottom, which is held with sticky tape inside.
3: Undo five screws from plastic front panel and free it. You will now have limited access to the front panel PCB and audio processor PCB.
4: Cut a few black cable ties as required to gain better access to front PCBs, and unplug ribbon cable from right hand side. It may be helpful to undo the nut and so release the volume control encoder.
5: Still struggling with poor access, release the standoffs from the audio processor PCB and unplug its ribbon cable. You have to remove the audio processor PCB in order to get to the screws under it. You may want to remove the PCB for holding the mains switch.
6: Now with some kind of access to the whole of the front panel PCB, undo 10,000 screws which secure it to the black plastic front panel.
7: Now with limited access to the front side of the front panel PCB, locate the capacitor, towards the right hand side of the display, just beneath it. Note the polarity; the negative terminal goes to the left/top pcb land, positive to the bottom/right. Desolder and replace this component. HINT: Make life easier for next time and mount the new part on the REAR of the PCB, so now negative will be down. Care with polarity!
8: Reassemble carefully. Make sure that the volume control encoder metal clasps are tight as they come apart easily. Fit new cable ties in original locations (important to prevent hum pickup).

The parts you will require then are about 6 nylon cable ties, and a 0.1F 5.5V capacitor. I had to make do with a 0.047F part because it was all I had to hand and I didn't want the machine in bits while I ordered one. Many of these components today are radial PCB mounting, which are not an ideal fit but could be used at a push. If you can get a vertically mounted one, that would be better. The nearest I can readily find is from RS Components item 377-350 (Panasonic EECS0HD104V), and the leads on this could doubtless be re-jigged to fit.

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