How to remove a link from a motorcycle chain

Generally bicycle (and motorcycle) chain tension is adjusted by the position of the rear axle. On bicycles you would move the axle farther back to tighten (forward to 'loosen'). Motorcycles are a little different as there is actually (usually) a specific adjuster for the axle position (same as bicycle though - rearward to tighten/forward to loosen). Hope this helps

hi,

Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets.
The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road.
Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too.
The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link.
When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone.
After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required.
Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together.
The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots.
Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position.
After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle.
Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.

There could be a master link with a clip. Look on both sides of the chain as the clip is normally on the outside but not always. Remove the clip and master link.

If there is no clip and the chain is not going to be reused then cut it off (in one piece it stays around the swing arm). There are chain cutting tools or a saw of some kind will do.

If you don't have a master link with a clip (Factory OEM usually don't) and your needing to save that chain you will need to purchase a tool that presses out the pins. You would also need to purchase a master link that fits the size of that chain (not all chains are made equal).

A chain tool is good to have though. Say you purchase a chain and it has 120 links and you only need 118 then you're going to need to remove some links. Also the tool kits come with a special pin when using pressed on master links (better than the clip master lnks).

Remember when installing a clip on a master link that the round part goes on facing the direction of the chain travel with the open part facing the rear.

You wiil need to take the removed links to a bike shop and buy a joiner link which will clip together, They will match the link to your chain.

Normally that is the sound of a loose chain. You may need to tighten the chain. If you are close to the maximum adjustment you will need to remove a link or two. If unfamiliar with removing links and half links, it would be best to have a dealer do the chain work.

There is nothing special about the chain on that motorcycle. If you don't know what size the chain is and you can't remove the chain to take it with you then ride the bike to a shop and they can measure it. Most likely it is a 520 O-ring chain. If you buy a 120 link chain the proper size you will certainly have enough links. You will take the old chain off and lay the two side by side, then cut links from the new chain so it matches.

Often there is a sticker on the bike near the swingarm that tells what size and how many links are in the chain.

you said it all, most bikes have a master link, if not you need a chain breaker, which you can also use if the new chain you purchase is to long. lift bike on center stand, loosen axle nut, then loosen chain adjustment screw nuts on both sides and turn them so the wheel/axle moves all the way forward. connect the old chain to the new chain and pull it through (while gearbox is in neutral). adjust the chain adjust screws on the axle the same amount indicated by the markers on swing arm until chain has a deflection of half inch up and down in the middle at the tightest spot, try turning the wheel a few cycles to find it. then lock axle nut then tensioner lock nuts.

Unless you are changing sprocket sizes you can not shorten the chain because removing even one link would not allow the ends to connect. Are you adjusting the chain as needed? Why do you want to shorten it?

Even if the factory chain has no master link (some are continuous these days) you can still grind off two pins carefully and push out a link to remove the chain, or simply cut it. That is what you must do when replacing the chain.

Your bike should have a master link. Remove the link then remove the chain. Loosen the axle nut and move the wheel forward. Mount the new chain and install the link. Be sure to put the master link clip with the closed end facing the direction of chain travel. Tighten the chain using swing arm index marks then re-tighten the axle.
Go riding!

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For a honda 1999-2000 CBR600

you will need a 108 chain link. This is the standard link considering your front teeth has 15 and rear has 45.

If you're not sure of the chain length, buy the 120 link 530 Heavy Duty chain. THe longer the better, you can always cut the chain (using a chain cutter and repair kit) if its excessive.



I recommend you buy the gold chain-type.