Question about AO Smith 1 1/2 HP 115/230V 56C Replacement Motor

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Replacing new AOSSQ1152

Just replaced the old motor with new 230V and pool company didn't re-connect the electrical pig-tails. I have a ground and an L1 and L2 terminal on motor and a set of 4 wire leads. Ground plus neutral and 2 orange (high and Low) Seems to me that the company did not sale me a 2 speed motor

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  • Lunatic_75 May 11, 2010

    On the nameplate it should tell you the rpm of the motor. Start w/ that. looking up your part# it only comes up a single speed.

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What's the source of the info that the two orange wires are Low & High?

Orange is an unusual color, but I'd say, with 99.999% certainty, that if you put a voltmeter across the two orange wires, it'll read 220 volts (nominal).

The two orange and one white lead give you the ability to run @ 110 volts -- there will be 110 volts between one orange and white and also the other orange and white.

For this motor you only need the two orange wires which will give you 220 volts between the two. Cap off the neutral/white wire (not needed) & connect the two orange wires, one to L1 and one to L2 on the motor (L = Line). And don't forget to connect the ground...

Charlie

P.S. You should also have a GFCI on this circuit.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

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Replacing Pool pump motor


Which control panel?
White can be Com, and Black Lo, and Red/Blue Hi
But this is guessing without knowing control panel wiring.

For example T106 timer. Wires can be any color.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-106-control-208-277V-4-40.jpg
High connects to terminal 4
Low connects to terminal 1
Com connects to terminal A

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Power consumption pool motor


Look at your amps and multiply by volts. This will give you watts.


ex.motor label 115V/14.4A 230V/7.2A

Whether you are running on 115v or 230v you get 1,656 watts.
This converts to 1.656 KW (kilowatts)
Your power company charges you by the KW hour. I'll use
12 cents per kilowatt hour for example.

$0.12 x 1.656 = .1987
This rounds off to 20 cents per hour to run, so if you run the pump 6 hour a day,180 hours per month, the electrical cost would be
about $36 per month.

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1 Answer

WIRING A COMPATIBLE POOL PUMP[MARATHON 1 H.P.230V


check for 230v not 110 (on line to ground). SO checking L1 and L2 should show 230 v if not you have a fault in the timer or the breaker is toast. depending on the timer you can clean the points

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1 Answer

Just installed a hayward super pump II 1.5 horse power. It keeps kicking the breaker out. It has a 15 amp breaker, can I just change breaker to 20 amp


could be you have a bad breaker. your old motor stresed the breaker now its weak. that motor draws 9.6 amps @ 230v i wold stay with the 15 amp, just get a new one.. jay the pool pump repair guy in longwood Florida

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1 Answer

I have an electric water pump American the diagram states it can be fed on both 230v or 115 v so should i include a neutral in the wiring, if am feeding it on 120v ? I did wire it with one hot and neutral...


Hello
You have it wired correctly.Do you know what the rpm of the old motor was?Possible this motor is not the same rpm.
Also i dont know what your doing with this motor,pool possibly? Anyway be sure no check valves are stuck and all air is out of system.

May 25, 2011 | AO Smith 1 1/2 HP 115/230V 56C Replacement...

1 Answer

My pool originally had a 2 speed AO Smith pump motor. Several years back it was replaced with an AO Smith single speed motor. I am replacing that motor with a new AO Smith single speed Centurion Switchless...


Is it going to run on 230V then? If so you would normally use red and black. The white wire should be a neutral and the ground wire is obviously ground.

Do you have a meter you can use to confirm the voltage between the wires? If you do you'll want to start with red and white since you seem to think black was not being used before. If the voltage reads 230 and the motor is set up for 230 then attach one wire to L1 and the other to L2...it will not matter which is connected where as long as one is on each terminal. Insulate the black and ground the ground lead to the motor ground screw.

If the voltage is not 230 between those two check between red and black. If that is the 230 then insulate white and put red and black to L1 and L2.

John

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I just bought a AOSmith 1hp pool pump. I do not


Well first did you have an old one you're replacing? Check it. Second you could test your voltage with a tester (best idea then you know for sure). Third, you can look at the circuit breaker in your panel, and if it is a single breaker , it is 125V If it's a double pole breaker (two wide with wide handle) then it's 230V. Usually if it is 230V then the wires coming to it would both be black, or black and red, with a bare or green ground. Usually if it's 115V you'll have one black (hot), one white (neutral) and one bare or green(ground) but at times someone will wire one 230 with black and white. There should also be a large bonding copper jumper connected to a lug on the outside of the motor to bond your system to the pool (NOT AN EQUIPMENT GROUND)

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MOST OF THESE ARE 230V ONLY, SO GROUND GOES ON THE GREEN SCREW ABOUT 2 O-CLOCK ON THE MOTOR AND THE OTHER 2 WIRES GO ETHER WAY ON THE 2 SCREWS . REMEMBER TO VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE FIXIT GUY ! THANKS JAY

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Pontiac montana turn signal flashing too fast


At:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f101976
found this discussion which might be helpful:
----
No surprise at all! Common problem which has been discussed several times on this site.
Basically.....tail light(s) plugs (Pig Tails) were sub-standard and cannot stand the heat of the bulbs. Pull out hear tail light fixtures, remove bulbs from recepticals and check for melting plastic, usually between the black wire (hot wire) and one or more colored wires. If so, cut out old Pig Tail, get a replacement Pig Tail, soder it in (I think about 6 wires), and use electrical shrink wrap around sodered joint, install new bulbs using Di-electric grease in the socket. Test before reinstalling light fixture.
Jack
-------
The poster also mentioned something I forgot; use some kind of grease in the sockets any time you have reason to access them.

The dielectric grease he mentioned is best but if you can't find (it is and electronic item, rather than electrical), even petroleum jelly will afford some protection.
I use it on battery clamps and it helps ****** the typical corrosion.
Since most cars use the chassis for ground, even the fasteners that hold in lighting assemblies can lose contact so I always loosen, then retighten them, to ensure decent ground contact.
Check too for corrosion in the light sockets themselves.

Dunno why it is so tough to seal a compartment but our US manufacturers can't seem to get it right.

//

Jun 15, 2008 | 2003 Pontiac Montana

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