Last part of the rinse cycle of a programme; after or as collecting fabric conditioner; water seems to flow out from underneath or around the draw dispenser. A pre-wash is not used nor is washing powder put in the tray but water is flushed through the dispenser. At this stage water is not in evidence at the front of the machine. The dispenser has been cleaned including ensuring that water flows out of the fabric conditioner part of the dispenser. The main filter is also cleaned regularly. Any thoughts appreciated, please. The machine is a Zanussi 1200 Jetstream

SOURCE: Fabric conditioner still in draw after wash cycle

This is usually a matter of pulling the drawer right out (it is designed to let you do this) and taking it to bits (it's designed for this too). Most front-loaders have a bit of a design weakness in that the bit that gets blocked with conditioner isn't immediately obvious without a little bit of prior dismantling. Once you get the top off the drawer, you'll almost certainly find the siphon tube gummed up with old conditioner. Clean this up under a hot tap, then reassemble and all should be well. A.

SOURCE: Fabric Dispenser

The detergent dispenser is located above the detergent drawer. A water pipe is connected to it and water entrance and distributed to drawer's cells (following the programmed cycle) by a lever's movement (part of the dispenser). The lever movement is controlled by two solenoids that received their power from the timer. By opening upper machine's cover you will have an access to the dispenser. Disconnect the power cable from the machine before moving to next test !!!! Look first that they are not any disconnected wires. Move manually dispenser's lever and see if water running to all cells (depend on your movement). In case it doesn't work properly remove the unit from the machine and try to clean it (I hope it will help, otherwise you should replace the unit). In case it works properly (manually) - you should test by a multi-tester solenoid's resistance. the one that doesn't have a resistance measurement should be replaced. Good luck !!

SOURCE: Zanussi Front-Load Washer ZWX 1606

the soap box has holes in the tyop thro which the water comes. those over the rinse compartment may be blocked. clear with a paperclip

SOURCE: jetstream 1200 wont take away fabric softner

strip and clean out the soap tray then remove the tray and clean the fill water holes above it with a stiff washing up brush.

SOURCE: jetstream 1400.Zanussi Front Load

buzzing indicater mostly motor problem.other possibilitires are  It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.