Question about GE Ovens

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I HAVE A GE ELECTRIC OVEN AND THE F1 CODE CAME ON OUT OF NO WHERE AND I AM UNABLE TO GET IT TO STOP. I FINALLY TURNED OFF MY CIRCUIT BREAKER TO THE RANGE HOWEVER AFTER SEVERAL MINUTES AND TURNING BACK ON THE BEEPING CONTINUES. I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO DISCONNECT THE RIBBON

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F1 = Failed transistor in control

If code cannot be cancelled, replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad

You'll have to use the breaker to keep it off. The ERC is AKA the Clock.
It handles all the functions of the oven, and is a costly repair.

Usually recommended to use the $200 to upgrade to a more efficient oven with a warranty.

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Posted on Sep 11, 2009

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Sep 11, 2009

    That is if you have a Built - in oven.

    If you have a Self cleaner - it's a "Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on."

    Solution :
    Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:

    1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.

    2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs



    If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.



    If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.


    and finally - if it is a standalone range/oven/stove, the fault means Failed Thermistor Control.
    and the solution is Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).


    Thanks!!

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Oven will not stay heated. F1 light on.


Hello there:
on most ge models this code it can be either a (f 0) or the (f 1 ) is telling you that the the thermistor controle circuit is going bad or has failed all together. or there is a short in the erc circuit meaning the electronic controle board. ok
So i would recommend have a repairman check out the thermistor first since this is the most common thing to fail then if this passes have them test the controle board or the ecr circuit
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Keep getting F1 error code (constant beep) on my GE profile oven.


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
&%YR

May 11, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Keep getting F1 error code (constant beep) on my GE profile oven.


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
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