Question about Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

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I hooked up power to a bad circuit and overloaded the appliance with 220 voltage @30 amps, i replaced the fuse in the back with was burnt out but it still does not work. The circuit is repaired and all the receptacles have been checked and work fine. I had to replace a power supply on my computer to get it back up and running, is this what i need to do for the fridge? Thank you for your help, James

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The relay board is more thatn likely burnt too.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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I believe I might need to change my (20 amp) breaker switch that is running on 10-2 wire which supplies power to my Rheem Classic 10 Seer. I'm not sure if I need to have 220V of power on a 30amp...


Hello, the unit runs on 220 volts that's why # 10 wire must be used. The best bet is to use a 40amp breaker for 220 volts, gives the circuit more protection.

Sep 04, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Need to how the power source will be hooked up, and how, it will wire into a 13 SEER Goodman Packaged Unit, with HKR-15 strips. wire size?= 15 Ft. run: panel to unit


Minim 20 amp circuit ... is this 110 or 220? You need to know.

20 amp circuit needs to have #12 wire. If 110 Volts, you need a black, white and green #12. If 220 Volts you need a black, a red, and a green. If you have anything IN the unit that needs 110 (probably not), you need black, Red, White and Green (bare) #12 wire. Definitely needs to be on a dedicated circuit. If your unit has a resistance heater (electric) you will need a 30 amp circuit (probably 220) which needs #10 wire minimum. 220 volt breakers are double. You will need two spaces in your panel box. Would not hurt to put in heavier wire (#8) protected by a 30 amp breaker ... $ is the governing factor.

Having said all of that --- you should be reminded that I dont even know what country you are in nor your prevailing voltage nor what your national or local codes require. My comments based on installing several Goodman products over several years on the Eastern Seaboard.

Aug 26, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Dryer is tripping all electric in the garage everytime it is put on any ideas why? (looked at plug, checked wiring, changed fuse, emptied water and fluff filter)


First of all, if your dryer is tripping ALL the electric in the garage, you may be overloading the circuit capacity of the garage service. A major appliance such as a dryer should have its own dedicated circuit. That is, a circuit that ONLY the dryer is connected to with a separate service breaker. You may not have a problem with the appliance at all. It may be just be a matter of overloading. You should have a 220 VAC circuit breaker rated at a minimum of 30 amps for an ELECTRIC dryer. Or, a 120VAC circuit breaker rated at 15 to 20 amps for a GAS dryer.

You may also want to check to make sure you have the appliance wired correctly. If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, the following link explains how the appliance needs to wired:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord

If you have a GAS dryer, it should use a 110-120VAC configuration using either 14 gauge wiring for a 15 amp breaker and 12 gauge wiring for a 20amp. The power cord should be of the three-prong variety (HOT, NEUTRAL and GROUND). The color code for the wiring is as follows:

BLACK - HOT (110-120VAC)
WHITE - NEUTRAL (0 VAC)
GREEN - GROUND (Usually wired to a terminal lug at the terminal block on the appliance)

If you're dryer is already configured with a dedicated circuit breaker, please post back with a MODEL NUMBER and WHICH fuse you are referring to that is blowing. I hope this information is helpful.

Apr 25, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Burnt Power Supply


You can try replacing the fuse in the power supply if it has one. Most have a permanent circuit breaker that once tripped, the power supply is no more. If you can change the fuse, there's a 90% chance it still won't work since there was a burnt oder, which indicates the fuse didn't blow fast enough to prevent more damage, like the motherboard.

May 11, 2010 | Dell Vostro 220 Desktop Computer

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer model 96281100 runs but don't dry(no heat)


If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so I can provide you with better service. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Feb 27, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Internal fuse on cambridge a1 mk3 has blown and when replaced,blew instantly??


When the fuse blows suspect an overload in either the power supply or Main Amp section.
Check for burnt/damage parts first!
Power Supply faults that will blow the fuse are: Transformer, Rectifier, Voltage Regulator, Large Electrolytic Capictors, Diodes & any other semiconductor connected with it.
Main Power Amp faults are: any semiconductor device on the heatsink.

Jan 04, 2010 | Audio Players & Recorders

2 Answers

Drying Machine Problem


Hi..

If your dryer is not drying,

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating elementOften a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


Regards
PCmania



Jul 16, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

What type of powercord and outlet does this dryer require? Electrician installed a 220 outlet.


ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
ELECTRIC Dryer
CIRCUIT - Individual 30 amp. branch circuit fused with 30
amp. time delay fuses or circuit breakers.
Use separately fused circuits for washers and dryers, and DO
NOT operate a washer and a dryer on the same circuit.
POWER SUPPLY - 3 wire or 4-wire, 240 volt, single phase, 60
Hz, Alternating Current.
POWER SUPPLY CORD KIT - The dryer MUST employ a 3-
conductor power supply cord NEMA 10-30 type SRDT rated at
240 volt AC minimum, 30 amp., with 3 open end spade lug
connectors with upturned ends or closed loop connectors and
marked for use with clothes dryers.
WARNING – Risk of Shock. Appliance grounded to neutral
conductor through a link. Grounding through the neutral link is
prohibited for (1) New branch circuit installations (2) mobile
homes; (3) recreational vehicles; and (4) areas where local codes
do not permit grounding through the neutral, (1) disconnect the
link from the neutral, (2) use grounding terminal or lead to
ground appliance in accordance with local codes and (3) connect
neutral terminal or lead to branch circuit neutral in usual manner
(if the appliance is to be connected by means of a cord kit, use
4-conductor cord for this purpose). USE COPPER CONDUCTOR
ONLY. The dryer MUST employ a 4-conductor power supply
cord NEMA 14-30 type SRDT or ST (as required) rated at 240
volt AC minimum, 30 amp., with 4 open end spade lug
connectors with upturned ends or closed loop connectors and
marked for use with clothes dryers.

The complete installation manual is at ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Webster/134917700es.pdf

Jan 28, 2009 | Frigidaire FEQ1442ES Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Audiovox AVT2540 won't turn on


Hi,

The only possible check that could be done without removing/opening the Audiovox TV would be to check for the presence/absence of supply power/voltage depending on how the TV is powered (12VDC or 120 VAC). Normally, there would be an fuse and/or circuit breakers.for the RV's entertainment system including the TV.
The 120-volt circuit breakers and 12-volt fuses are located in the same compartment. These devices interrupt the power if the circuit is overloaded.The 120-volt circuit breakers include a 30 amp main breaker and several smaller breakers for individual circuits. If a circuit breaker is tripped, look for an overload on the circuit, then reset it by turning the breaker OFF and then turning it ON. Do not try to reset a breaker the second time without locating the overload problem. The 12-volt fuses protect individual circuits. If the circuit is overloaded, it will blow the fuse and the fuse must be replaced. Check the circuit for an overload and replace the fuse with the same type or amperage rating.

If the above checks out, then problem is internal to the unit and would require removal from its current position.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Jul 23, 2008 | Televison & Video

2 Answers

Receptacle Doesn't Work


By far the most common problem with a receptacle is that it doesn?t work. Because receptacles are very inexpensive and easy to replace, it makes sense to replace them when they cease to work properly. But before you go to the trouble of buying a new one and installing it, make sure that the old one is truly defective. For a non-working duplex receptacle, first make sure the problem isn't with the appliance or lamp. Some appliances, such as hairdryers, have overload protectors that automatically shut them off if they begin to overheat. Try a second appliance or lamp in the receptacle. If the receptacle still doesn't work, you'll usually find that the circuit breaker has tripped or the fuse has blown, the receptacle has become faulty, or there is a switch that operates that receptacle and it needs to be turned on. The problem is rarely the wiring. 1) Test the receptacle with a second lamp or appliance. 2) Be sure that one half of the duplex receptacle (or the entire receptacle) isn't controlled by a switch in the room. 3) Check the circuit breaker (or fuse) for that receptacle's circuit to be sure it has not tripped (or blown). If it has, reset the breaker or replace the fuse, and try plugging a working lamp or appliance into the receptacle again. 4) If it still doesn't work, turn off the receptacle's circuit breaker, unscrew the cover plate from the receptacle, and use a voltage tester to be sure none of the wires in the electrical box are still "hot." Then check to be sure that the wires are securely fastened to the receptacle's terminals. 5) Look for signs of charring. Replace the receptacle if it looks damaged. 6) Put the cover plate back on, turn the circuit back on, and try the receptacle again. If it still doesn't work, turn the circuit back off, remove the receptacle cover, and replace the receptacle with one that has the same amp and voltage ratings. 7) If this doesn't solve the problem, call an electrician.

Jan 18, 2006 | APC MasterSwitch Power Receptacle - Power...

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