Question about GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Dispenser TFX27PRBWW

3 Answers

General Electric - GSS25SGMD_BS Multiple Faults (S\N: MD 238941)

Hope someone can help me out. This side by side (freezer \ refridge) unit has multiple issues. To summarize; in the freezer compartment toward the top of the compartment, the temperature is quite warm. Temperature at the bottom of the freezer is quite cold and seems normal. Although water is present in the ice tray, the temperature is too warm to make ice.

In the refridgerator section of this unit the temperature is also quite warm near the top shelves but very cold (almost freezing) at the bottom part of the refridgerator.

All front panel controls appear to work (light, crushed and cubed ice) except water. I hear a relay engaging but no water comes out. The compressor seems to be working as I can hear a steady hum. Internal lights turn off when the switches are tested. A visual inspection of the motherboard revealed that all appears normal with no obvious burnt components.

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  • andyekis Sep 11, 2009

    Thanks for the prompt response! When I push the light switch the freezer fan does NOT run. The fan is located 2/3rds up the back wall of the freezer.

    You are correct. I discovered the water line inside the refridgerator frozen because the crisper sliding temperature bar was set all the way down to the lowest setting allowing all the cold air to come inside the refridgerator from the freezer.

    I used a hair-dryer to thaw the water lines so now I have water from the dispenser. It seems like the circulating fan inside the freezer is not working at all. Is there a way to test this at the mother board level? I would assume that it works off of 12Vdc. Could I jumper around something to test this baby?.. Thanks aasc...

  • andyekis Sep 13, 2009

    Okay I have followed the recommendations of letting my unit defrost manually. I'll give it 24 to 48 hours to see what happens. There still is a problem with the freezer's circulating fan. It doesn't work even when engaging the switch. Could this be the root cause of my problem?

  • andyekis Sep 14, 2009

    I defrosted my unit for 48 hours. There really wasn't a lot of melted ice produced by this process. I pluggeg the unit back in last night and I still have the original symptom...



    The top portions of both the freezer and refridgerator compartments are quite warm while both compatements are cold at the bottom. The recirculating fan located inside the freezer is still not working. I assume that this fan pulls up the cold air from the bottom of the freezer and helps pass it over to the refridgerator compartment.



    To be honest, I don't want to mess around with this ongoing problem anymore. I'm thinking of just buying a new motherboard as it appears that the freezer recirculating fan pluggs into this board.

  • andyekis Sep 16, 2009

    I replaced the motherboard and all is well = thanks...

  • andyekis Sep 16, 2009

    Motherboard was bad...

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3 Answers

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Hi,

Before you jump to any conclusion, you need to investigate a lot. This might have a simple solution.

First of all make sure, all Fans are working.

Then , follow the below mentioned :-

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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  • Master
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HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuit board.


Concerning the water issue. This is an inlet issue.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Sep 14, 2009

    Please disregard the water valve inlet comments. I see you have already addressed that issue.

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  • Master
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Can you remove the back panel on the inside wall in the freezer section. If there is ice build-up, melt it by placing a utensil of boiling water (disconnect the refrigerator from power source first). OR use a hair dryer.

If there is severe ice build-up then please reply for further instructions.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

  • Adnan Bhatti
    Adnan Bhatti Sep 13, 2009

    Yes the fan can be a problem. Can you remove it and see if it works with an external power source?
    If not, replace the fan.


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