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Negative metal piece gone for battery

On inside battery connecter on the negative side gone only plastic there can this be replaced

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Yes, you can replace it. If you are creative you can jury rig something to work. This type of failure of battery connections is fairly common.

Find a piece of metal that can be soldered and bent as needed.

You will need to take care in dis-assembly of the unit.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The ground wire inside the bass is loose, not connect, or not connected correctly. Make sure it goes to the CASINGS of all the kobs, the switches, if any, the negative side of the plug socket, and under the bridge. All of these surfaces should be grounded together, the connection under the bridge is necessary to keep from looping the ground with your hands.

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Akai ewi 4000s neck strap mount


1 Un screw all the screw on black panel, but must remember where each on goes, but Be careful not the two screws in side mouth pice which holding the pitch bend unit. 2. open the battery cover remove all the battery 3. Remove the 1/4 earphone nut, and all screws on the silver metal case. (Under the black plastic ), you don't need to remove any screws from the "key" side 4. Use something to pull the battery Cartridge sideway out from Main attachments, but not all the way out from the ewi case, because you can't, the plastic case structure will be in the way, 5. Use some flat pice metal like dinning knife insert in to between black and sliver metal to separate the two parts, start from the mouth pice end, once you open wide enough the battery cartridge can be remove from the case out. Now you can open the Ewi 4000s and see the two HX nuts that holds the strap mount, put some Nail polish on it before you tie them up.....Warning.. You must pull the battery cartage sideway out from its electric plugging mount before you are trying to separate the plastic and silver housing otherwise you will damage the circuit board. That was What I did to mine. Good luck and may God provide you wisdom for this.

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It seems to have no power the led light doesn't come on. its brand new, but I havent used it in about five years


Are you using battery or AC adapter for power?
Most pedals won't allow you to use both. Check that there is no battery installed if you're going to plug it in. If you are using a battery, Some pedals won't light an LED on battery power.
If problem persists, your pedal may be DOA

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It seems I've got a loose contact at the input socket, how do take the amp out so i can open it up and fix the connection?


For some reason that model number doesn't appear to be valid.

HOWEVER... look for screws from teh side where the amp chassis is AND sometimes Behringer HIDES screws holding the amp under the covers where the handles are. These cover snap off after a fashion... one has to pry sideways near where the rubber/plastic goes insidethe cap and pry ONLY the plastic part sideways to release the cap. There is a metal piece inside so the pry has to be on about the first 32nd of the plastic. The screws under this also hold the amp. Under the amp are wires to the speaker... Be careful to not damage them... USUALLY the amp goes out the front. I have a BX1200 so mine may be different.

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1 Answer

M-audio av20 right speaker has no sound coming out of it at all...


To troubleshoot the problem start with the bit that is working - the left speaker.
  1. Unplug the input leads on the back of the left speaker and swap them round.
  2. If sound now comes out of right speaker and not the left the problem is with your sound source (computer, IPOD or whatever) or the connecting cable is faulty.
  3. If there is still no sound from the right speaker try turning the volume control knob up and down quickly several times - does this produce any sound from the right speaker? Sometimes the electrical contacts get dirty and this can help clean them.
  4. Turn the speakers off using the volume control knob. Disconnect the speaker wire for the right speaker from the OUTPUT on the left speaker (push the red and black tabs downwards and gently pull the wires out. Find a small 1.5 volt battery (an AA or AAA size will do nicely) and touch the bare ends of the speaker wire briefly on the battery terminals. If you hear a slight crackling sound the wire and the speaker are okay and the problem is in the amplifier, which will need repair or replacement - not a job for an amateur.
  5. If you don't get any sound from the battery test find another piece of speaker wire (any piece of 2 core cable with bare ends will do for testing) and repeat the battery test. If you get sound then replace the speaker wire. If not remove the speaker wire again and go to next step.
  6. Lay the speaker face downwards and carefully unscrew the back panel (don't do this if it is still under manufacturers warranty - take it back for repair or replacement). Lift the back panel off carefully and slowly taking care not to pull the connecting wires inside the cabinet, which will probably be quite short. You may have to settle for just rotating the back panel slightly so that you can see inside if the wires are too short to do otherwise.
  7. Use sticky tape to tightly attach the bare ends of the speaker wires to the terminals of the battery. Touch the loose ends of the speaker wires on the two metal terminals where the internal wires are joined onto the back of the big loudspeaker cone. If this produces a crackling sound it is the internal wiring in the cabinet that needs re-soldering. Otherwise the loudspeaker unit has failed and will need replacement.

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1 Answer

I have a Casiotone MT70 made in 1984. How do I check the polarity as I need to get an AC Adaptor and don't want to damage the keyboard?


Here is how you might check the polarity of a 7.5 volt DC replacement adapter:

Put the 5 batteries into the unit and verify operation. NOW using a DC voltmeter measure the voltage from battery negative and meter negative connected and meter positive to the pin on the power jack. IF you see 7.5 volts positive, then the pin is the positive lead for the adapter.

If you see zero, then continue testing.

With the 5 batteries inserted, connect the positive meter lead to the positive of the stack of batteries. Now touch the negative meter lead to the pin.
If there is 7.5 volts there, then the pin is the negative lead for the adapter.

READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

USUALLY the jack has a contact that disconnects the batteery when the plug with sleeve is inserted.. We are testing the jack without inserting a plug here so the plug should HAVE THE BATTERY VOLTAGE with correct polarity on the pin.

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If the key itself is hard to move, you need to find out why. Is the momentary contact switch under the key non-functional?
The Momentary Contact Switch is a lot like that used on a computer keyboard, or a computer mouse.

A metal, or plastic case that surrounds an upside down T shaped plastic piece, which pushes down on a thin spring metal 'diaphragm'. The 'diaphragm' is convex shaped, and the curvature goes up.

In the center at the bottom of this switch, is a contact. The metal diaphragm connects to one side of the circuit, and the contact at the bottom connects to the other side of the circuit.

As the metal diaphragm is flattened, and touches the center contact, the circuit is complete.
The convex shaped metal diaphragm then curves back up, (Because it is spring metal), and breaks the circuit, as your finger comes off of the key.
This makes it a Momentary Contact switch.

When the circuit is complete, electricity goes to electronic components, that make That particular sound. (Note)

Perhaps, parts inside that momentary contact switch are broken. They moved at first allowing you to use this switch, but with extra force. Finally the switch broke completely, and is non-functional now.

If the sound itself is diminishing, it is a Capacitor which is the problem. (Electronic keyboard) Just thought I would add this.

From my own knowledge bank.

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7 Answers

DTXPlorer


You can replace the battery yourself in about 20 minutes. It is not soldered. You will need a replacement battery, which is a CR2032 watch battery, a small Philips screwdriver, and needle or thin-nosed pliers.
1. Remove all cables from the dtxplorer unit, and remove it from the drum kit rack.
2. Remove all 6 screws from the bottom side (i.e. opposite the face)
3. Remove the 3 lowest screws from the rear (jack-filled) side, including the one which holds in the little plastic power cord hook, then lift off the bottom and set aside.
4. You will see the bottom circuit board, covering the top board. Carefully pull off the spade connectors from the power switch, using pliers or patient wiggling, they are on fairly tight but will come loose. Note which one is which for proper reattachment.
5. Near the center of the board is a little white plastic post end sticking up, through a hole, from the inside (top) board, with small tabs. This loosely attaches the two boards. Using small pliers, squeeze the tabs on the post end, and pull up on the board and it will separate from the inside (top) board. Carefully move the board toward the front of the unit to free the jacks from the holes in the case, and then you can easily fold the board toward the front, like opening a book. (Don't try and remove the large wire sets attaching the two boards)
6. You will see the button-like battery. Just push it toward the spring clips at one side and lift it out. Replace it with the new battery, + side out.
7. Just reverse the steps to reassemble, hook it up and you're ready to go. Easier to do than this makes it seem. Greg

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