I am getting 110 power to the computer board from the breaker and 12 from the thermostat but nothing is coming on.Replaced the computer board and have the same problem.This is a Colman unit with the thermostat on the wall.Any ideas?
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Re: Colman unit is getting no power
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(I have this model at my home). If you switch it over to emergency heat and nothing comes out then check the breakers behind the panel for the air handler (inside unit) There may be other issues, mine had a sequencer which had come apart. The newer sequencers have a retainer clip to prevent this. It is located under the galvanized cover inside the indoor unit next to the transformer.
Also check the breakers at the main panel (there should be two double breakers, one should be a 20 to 25 amp for the outside unit and the other should be around 70 amps for the indoor unit). Fully reset them after performing checks described later. . If your outdoor condensor compressor is failing (as mine did), it will trip the smaller breaker, if your indoor unit has a short or other problem it will trip either the 50 or the 70 amp breaker. Make sure you turn off all breakers before inspecting.
One last thought, if your thermostat has battery backup and the transformer has failed, you will still hear the click but nothing will operate since the 24 volt transformer operates both the indoor and outdoor units. It is located under the galvanized cover inside the indoor unit. (I would suspect this if all else appears normal with no breakers tripped). A universal transformer is around 8 to 12 dollars make sure to use the 240 volt wire and the COM when installing it. (there are several wires for various input voltages on the primary). they are available at any HVAC parts store. Power off to all sources before repairs.
If this is a typical air handler unit then turn the fan switch to on, if the fan does not come on then you have a control problem or no power to unit. Check fuses/Breaker.
If fuses and breaker are ok then try this. Turn the power off to unit, try and locate control board usually
located in the lower panel where the blower might be.
Disconnect thermostat wires that go to probably
r/w/g/y/c and remember what color goes to where.
If you can make a jumper wire or you have aligator
clips, jumper r and w. Put door back on, turn power on and heat should start up.
You can also put a jumper between r ang g terminals
instead and the fan should come on.
If either of the two cases happen, then you need another thermostat or check wiring to thermostat.
Another possibility is that there could be a car fuse
located in the control board that is blown
Need to check the breaker to the unit at the electrical breaker box. You should have a dual 60 amp breaker that runs the unit. Also if you removed the front of the furnance on the inside the system will not work unless the front of the furnance is on. There is a safety switch that will not allow the system to run with the door off. There could be the problem if the breaker is on and electricity is supplied to the unit that switch may be out and need replacing. The furnance is operated on 110 volts the condensor (outside section) operates on 240v you need to insure that the proper voltage is supplied to both.
Since both units work together yet operate seperately if the furnance comes on and the condensor doesn't then there is an electrical problem at the condensor (more than likely the contactor switch) if the condensor comes on and not the furnance then there to is an electrical problem (either 110 volts not supplied) or the switch to the safety cut off is bad. Now if neither furnance nor condensor comes on there could be improper power to both or a bad thermostat since the thermostat activates both furnance and condensor. Good Luck on repairs
check and see if you are getting ac 110 volts to your water vave when trying to start the unit. if no power check your breakers and /or the incoming power to your dishwasher if they are ok and show 110 voltage coming to the unit then you probably have a control board or touchpad problem which would need a little more detailed check out.
If you do have ac 110 to your water valve then you may just have a bad water valve. Because the washer has to fill first. Hope that helps!!
It sounds like you have a short in the control unit at the ceiling pack. Remove the inner shroud from the AC and pull down the control unit. Remove the cover from the control unit to access the relays. With the thermostat off, check for power at the white (or orange depending on the unit) wire coming from the thermostat to the relay board. Also check power from the yellow and gray wires from the thermostat to the control board. None of these should be hot with the thermostat off. If there is power then you have a short in the wiring between the tstat and the upper unit. If there is no power, then you have a bad control board.
The fuse is a 110 volt breaker in your service panel. If your heat comes from the heat strip it is inside of the ac in front of the evaporator. If it is a heat pump thats the the compressor. To create heat the compressor runs in reverse. There is a directional relay operated by the circuit board and thermostat to tell the ac what you are calling for, heat or ac. The heat strip is connected to the circuit board and is also operated on 110 volts. You have one of three problems. Breaker tripped, bad heat strip, bad circuit board. Possibilities, find the heat strip cable and unplug and plug it back in a few times,maybe lost connection. That happens at times because of the warm and cold elimates. The heat strip can be tested by takeing it out and bench testing it with 110 power. circuit board can be checked by use of a volt meter, turn the ac to heat and check the pins where the heat strip plugs in. To chech the heat pump you must go up top, remove ac cover and with an amp clamp find the wires going to the compressor and put the amp clamp on one wire only. Amps should be no more than 7 amps. If it is the compressor is shot. If there is no reading then the compressor is not running. Now you may have a bad capacitor which is up top under a sheet metal cover. They also can be tested with a VOM. You will find 2 or 3 capacitors depending on model. Run and start. Capacitors typically are charged with 370 to 600 Volts. They will knock off the top of your camper. BE AWARE OF THE FACT YOU ARE DEALING WITH 110 VOLTS. IF YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR OR COMFORTABLE GET SOME QUALIFIED HELP. GOOD LUCK
Code 12 I believe is power up after power off and a call for heat from the the thermostat. If you have a weak door switch that may be vibrating and going on and off it would cause this as would any thing that causes the power to drop low or out then reapply its self. try holding the door switch in while watching the board and after 2 or 3 minutes the furnace should go on to lite and the blower cycle off. If it stays in this mode try turning the thermostat off (heat - OFF -cool) and then push in the door switch nothing should happen except the lite on the board come on and stay on. If it does this than have someone turn the thermostat to heat and see if it starts or put the door on and set the heat and see if *** goes through the normal cycle of heating. If however it goes right back into the blower mode and shows the 12 code your problem is still with you. So next remove the wire on the "W" terminal on the board. Retry power to the door switch and now nothing should be on except the red lite. If it tries to start the 12 code and blower up again Im pretty sure you have a bad ignition/blower control board.
Blank screen sounds like a fried thermosat. Abrupt outages can affect certain types of thermostats. Make a jumper wire and jump across R and G. See if you get any action from anywhere. If a fan or compressor kicks in you know you have a burned out thermosat...
On my computer screen these two problems are not the same.
To "garys2003" Clicking you hear is the contactor closing in calling for cooling. If no power is being supplied to the outside unit high voltage the unit will not run. Check your circuit breaker or fuses in the outside power box. If the outside power box is of the non-fused disconnect, check that the disconnect is inserted properly.
To Trenina: Is your unit a self contained unit outside ducted to the inside as with a Mobile Home. If so your evaporator cooling coil may be frozen over stopping air movement, turn the cooling off and set your fan to on until it defrosts, then return to normal operation and leave the fan on during cooling.
If nothing comes on inside as with a central A/C system you may have a problem with the blower motor itself.
Door safety switch. You are sure you have power to furnace? jump out the G and R terminals on the furnace control board or turn your thermostat to Fan On to check. Make sure the door safety switch is in the closed position. Fan should come on. No fan, no power to unit. Check Emergency switch, circuit breaker and there may be a fuseable link in the wiring somewhere either above the unit or a condensate safety switch. Get power to the unit. Also check to see if there is a small fuse in the wiring inside the furnace or on the circuit board.