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Re: Canon AE-1 with Program
Have you change with a new battery?
Or check the battery with a DVM(digital volt meter).
Or get some batteries and connect in series to equal to that voltage and use two wire leads. One lead to -negative side of the battery, other lead to +positive. Now, -neg to neg of camera and +pos to pos of camera.
You now have power to the camera to test. This will save money rather than buying the camera's battery for testing. AA, C or D will work, just look on the camera's battery to see the right voltage.
Examples: with two batteries (1.5VDC + 1.5VDC = 3..0VDC). So -(negative) of one battery to + (positive) of the second battery with solder.
-(-neg, battery, pos+) solder to -(neg, 2nd battery, pos+)+
left side , use black wire on -(Neg) and solder right side, use red wire on +(Pos) and solder.
Now you have two leads, use those to connect to camera.
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You might want to check and make sure the battery is still good. If you purchased the camera used and didn't change the battery then this might be the case.
But in the mean time this is what you need to do: 1st-make sure that the shutter speed dial is set to any shutter speed other than the red circle w/red ring. If your camera is set to that it will drain your battery when not in use since it is designed to be an automatic setting. I set mine to 1/125th to do this push in the circular dial on the side and at the same time turn the knob.
2nd- locate the 2 levers on the opposite side of the shutter speed dial. Once you found them then position the back lever all the way forward towards the setting for "MULTI" and position the lever towards the front straight up.
3rd- then wind the film crank till it won't wind anymore and depress the shutter, if it is wound and the shutter release is still stuck then skip to the fourth step, if something happened and you heard a click then still proceed to the next step because no the shutter release will be temporarily stuck.
4th-Once both of these levers are in this position there should be a red
button just behind the shutter release button on the top right side of
the camera.... drum roll please...."Push the red button" what you
should hear is a rather loud click, this click is the mirror releasing allowing you to: 1 wind the film crank and take another picture and 2 this also now allows you to see through the lens again (assuming that you have a lens on the camera).
In Conclusion: without a battery that is fully functional in the camera this is how the camera will operate once you get a battery for your camera then reposition the levers on the side of the camera opposite of what I suggested (this will be the normal operating mode for the camera with a battery) then when you wind the film crank and depress the shutter everything will function normally.
Canon AE-1 35mm SLR is a manual focus camera EOS is Canon's designation of auto focus EOS stands for Electro-Optical System. The problem you are experiencing is caused by several little things that throws the camera, wind and cocking leaver out of synchronization or simply come to the end of the roll. There is a frame counter window just to the left of the shutter release behind the shutter speed dial. Also if you have just loaded film in the camera it may not be seated correctly check by releasing the rewind button, wind the film back but not all the way and open the camera to restart the film.
I think you have already ruined the film except the frames that are rewind back to the film cartridge. You can take the film out from the camera, push in the rewind button at the bottom, pull out the film from the film take up reel. On the film cartridge, turn on the long tube in the middle clockwise to wind all the film back into the cartridge. If you had the back opened briefly, do manual film rewinding in the dark room.
Your camera has a bad magnet in the body. Repairs will cost more than probably what you paid for it; I'd suggest getting a replacement (I got a Canon AE-1 Program for $40 on craigslist, ebay has good prices)
Camera has a bad magnet, the A series were plagued by this. Repairs will cost more than probably what it's worth. The AE-1's used an electromagnet system to activate the shutter for a smoother press and less shake from the camera system.
I got lucky and recently purchased an AE-1 program that doesn't have this problem, it seems to be a hit and miss with these.
To open the back pull on the rewind knob ( pulling up ) until back opens. Check that your 6 volt battery is ok ( ae -1 has an electronic shutter so will not work without a battery ): battery situated on the left hand side of the camera ( if it is facing you ) underneath small flip up door ( lock is at the bottom on the left of the small door ) . Check the battery by pressing the shutter release gently and seeing if your light meter needle moves. No movement ? replace battery.
You have two modes for taking pictures : auto which is actually AV ( aperture priority) or full manual : both are set by moving the shutter speed dial on the top right hand side ( underneath film winding lever ).